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Thread: Radiator for 4WD

  1. #81
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    Quote Originally Posted by VanCo View Post
    I have:

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-26185-h

    It is the predecessor to the part you posted. The new one (that you posted) has a larger tube size, which is better. They are identical, other than the one you listed is .5 inches thicker.

    It fits with minimal fabrication. It cools amazingly. I run a turbo on my 4y and in the heat of the summer pulling a trailer up a miles long grade with boost the engine reached a maximum of 215 degrees. It runs 187 otherwise.
    The one they suggest as a successor/replacement https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...illocation=int .
    Will it fit into the 2WD with 2Y engine as well or are there any better options for the non-4WD ones? My rad is dissolving into dust when I touch it... I will check recoring here in Germany as well.

    The OEM one I should get seems to be 16400-72070 https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dl...459008-4459008 . Of course this is not available i

    Thanks!

  2. #82
    Van Obsessed Carbonized's Avatar
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    Fitting a 4wd rad. in a 2wd van is a mater of brackets fabrication. The 2wd is bigger so if you use a 4wd sized rad. you will loose some cooling efficiency. https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...=radiator+size There are other threads about radiators, more pertinent to the 2WD. Also, try searching with the words "fan" or "shroud" in the non 4WD section.

    Here in the US it is not yet a problem to find the 86-89 2WD. I don't know about the 84-85. in any case the cost of shipping would kill you. Your best bet I think is to go by measurement and inlet/outlet size (1st), location (2nd). There as been talk of possible cross matching with VW Sirocco or similar. If you can recore that would be even better, keep it original
    LG.
    "perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away." A. de St Exupery.

  3. #83
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    I called Griffin and ordered this radiator: https://www.griffinrad.com/page6un.php?key_id=2-56185-H&db=universalfitdatabase1&partno=2-56185-H

    22 x 13" and it's thick... maybe 3"? The cooling tubes are 1.25" also... about as good as one could expect for cooling in the tight little space allowed.

    It's the same as Vanco and the others noted in this thread... inlet/ outlet ports are correct location, as well as the size. Any fabwork seems pretty simple and straight forward. It will require a couple of hose reducers from 1-3/4" to 1-1/4" and another from 1-1/2" to 1-1/4", as well as a couple 1-1/4" straight pipe couplers. I have the ability to weld some aluminum for the top mount, and the bottom mounts look to be just some home brew brackets.

    The fan shroud could be made from either trimming the og plastic one, or making a thin gauge metal one from scratch... none of what I am saying is new, this has all been done before and working in other vans with great results.

    I tried to rehab my old radiator for quite a while, vinegar baths, flushing with high pressure and etc... and with the 4- 600 dollar quotes for a re-core this direction made a lot more sense! $291, plus tax and free shipping. No brainer.

  4. #84
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    OK... question for those running electric fans.

    Heres what I am working with.

    Name:  97920922_10222581250224126_7657841115839594496_o.jpg
Views: 130
Size:  89.0 KB

    I really don't want to hack up the original shroud (I know it could work, but I want to save it along with the old rad in case I ever go back to original- doubtful, but I hoard Toyota parts anyways).

    So I am either going to fab up a shroud with some sheet stock to work with the original mechanical fan/ clutch OR just dive in and go for electric fan/s. The shroud for the e-fans is obviously less work to make, but more work on the wiring and fan control end. Question is, who has done it successfully? To be honest, I asked in another group and got little response... which makes me sort of hesitant to go that route.

    What have you guys used that actually worked? Flexalite, Spal, offbrand and etc... dual fans, size?

    What kind of issues am I looking at with power draw? Will the alt keep up with a potential 20A draw?

    Prolly some more things I may have missed... so fill me in!

    Side note: After I got the rad in and bled air from the system I let it idle for about 15 minutes and monitored the gauge and temp with a temp gun... was the best cooling results to date! So, I decided to take her for a spin... drove for about 20 minutes and the gauge never went above the half way mark. some results with the temp gun were pretty awesome... 185* when I got back and checked. Awesome!

  5. #85
    Van Enthusiast VanCo's Avatar
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    That's awesome! Looks great too!

    One thing I caution, don't use that coolant nipple plug for any amount of time. They will crack and fail. Especially in the van where the under seat temps are like an oven. I currently have a silicone hose piece with a bolt in it (it's been like that for years). I'm looking into drilling the housing out and tapping it to NPT and using a plug.

    Some (not all) of my experience with running an electric fan is documented here:

    https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...radiator/page3

    In short, if you want no hassle cooling stick to the factory mechanical fan. If you want to experiment, fabricate, electrical engineer because it's fun, then go electric.

    I really am happy to see another one of these Griffin radiators installed. They really are the best option from the aftermarket.
    Last edited by VanCo; 05-22-2020 at 09:32 AM.

  6. #86
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    Thanks man...

    I am loving it so far! Perfect solution to our non existent 4wd radiator problem, and by far the best improvement I have made yet. Installation was really straight forward like you said... light welding on the brackets (not mandatory, but made it far easier).

    Thanks for the heads up on the little cooling plug too. I had an old pack of fittings laying around and just used it, but I could see how it may fail later.

    So as for the e-fans, I am still curious... I see quite a few options out there with bolt on applications out of the box for the sirocco radiators. I know, whole nother animal and all but it is tempting. I will prolly just make one for now while I think on it. You think having a turbo and putting a bit more stress on the cooling system made a difference for your conclusion? Worse case scenario I try it and end up back with the mechanical fan I suppose...

  7. #87
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    I have run several different versions (14 inch, 16 inch, 2 10 inch, pushers, pullers shrouds, etc.) of electric fans non turbo over the years. They all work to a point, but the problem is the lack of natural airflow through the radiator at speed. Electric fans are not meant to run continually while at higher speeds. Plus, if the fan is running continually to maintain a given temp any increase in ambient temp will increase the engine temp as well. Add a hill and load to the equation and you're on the side of the road waiting for things to cool down. The best hope to make an electric fan work as it would if it were from the factory is to fabricate ducting to direct high flow natural air into the radiator. I had an idea to make a sort of chin splitter/scoop that was spaced an inch or more from the bottom of the bumper. From there a solid sheet all the way back to the radiator, and box it in (it could double as a skid plate). But then I put the mechanical fan back on and it was amazingly low maintenance and worked so I scrapped the idea.

  8. #88
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    Gotcha... I am like you and the thing see's lots of time off pavement, camping, finding new hunting and fishing spots. I think any time I spent building some ducting might be a waste. Prolly end up having to stop several times and pick up pieces of it.

    So, with that being that, I think I will just fab a shroud and call it good. At the end of the day I want it to just be reliable and fun.

  9. #89
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    Hello from a humble first time thread. Have been reading a lot for couple weeks now (since I started working on the van I got), haven't posted anything before but you guys are incredibly helpful for people. A big thank you to all.

    Now let's come to the issue.. I have recored my radiator in a shop in East la, with high reviews. The guy was super cool and all but when I asked him to recore it 4 row high efficiency, he said the radiator didn't have enough space so we ended up recoring 3 rows high efficiency. I got it back and was going to install it this week until I got to a junkyard and salvaged another 4wd radiator.

    Listening to Tim, I'm intrigued to get this one recored (or at least try) 4 rows in a different shop. Anyone has any shops in greater LA area?

    I might just end up using the 3 row radiator for my van. In that case I will get this other radiator recored and will give it to someone in need in the community. Cheers all!
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  10. #90
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    I had a similar experience where the radiator shop I went to said there wasn't room for a 4-core radiator and the high efficiency 3-core would be better than the stock core. The new 3-core ended up being way worse than the ancient stock radiator that had sprung a leak! I wish I had looked into other options (like the mythical Yuba City 4-core rebuild) but didn't have the time. I ended up installing an aluminum motorcycle radiator in a similar configuration as Tim's heater core setup discussed here . But my temp still gets up to 220 climbing hills on a hot day

    Maybe I'll look into the aluminum radiator Flecker shows above, it looks great. I have one question about that setup, it doesn't have the extra hose that goes to the filler neck (where he put the rubber cap) is that just a vent hose that isn't really needed?

  11. #91
    Van Enthusiast VanCo's Avatar
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammervan View Post
    I have one question about that setup, it doesn't have the extra hose that goes to the filler neck (where he put the rubber cap) is that just a vent hose that isn't really needed?
    I have run the Griffin radiator without the vent/purge hose for several years, and 10k plus miles. The hose makes it easier to get the air out of the system, but it isn't necessary. I use one of those spill proof coolant funnels that attaches to the radiator cap flange. It works perfect to get the bubbles out. Just take a bit more time when you're purging it and it is good.

    Also, it is possible to weld/or have someone weld a threaded bung to add a vent to the aluminum end tank of the radiator if you really wanted.

  12. #92
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    Hammer - If, with a new 3-core and the motorcycle rad isnt keeping its cool, you may want to investigate other potential issues.

    I too needed a rad and got the same story on the width/4 row situation and I went with their recommendation on the HE3.
    I dont have an auxiliary rad or the lower fan shroud but didn't have any further cooling issues.
    (everything else in the system was new though)

    I'd be hesitant to blame the 3-core unless you have reason to suspect workmanship.
    Maybe you have other issues in okay that are complicating matters.

  13. #93
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    I agree with Burntboot

    For instance, I was chasing cooling issues for a while on this van. Never overheated, just ran hot. Didn't use coolant, no milkshake. I decided to run a multi layer steel (MLS) head gasket to be more compatible with the cylinder pressures associated with running a turbo. Turns out the gasket I had been running was compromised between the number 4 cylinder and the rear most water jacket. It was barely visible and must have just been introducing super heated gasses into the cooling system. In changing the head gasket I knocked nearly 30 degrees off the temperature from around 215 to 187. The head gasket was the only change. This isn't the first time a head gasket has failed like this on these vans.

    I'm not saying it's the head gasket, but it's worth checking everything out.

  14. #94
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    Post Re: Radiator for 4WD

    BB, I've been living with the cooling issue for a few years now and have replaced the head gasket in that interval (whose passing I'd like to blame on the crappy re-cored radiator) plus thermostat, fan clutch etc. so not sure where else to look beyond the rad or pulling out the A/C system or buying a vehicle with a sensibly-located radiator . Vehicle generally runs at 200 degrees unless going up a long grade on a hot day.

  15. #95
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    There once was a thread on clutch fans, regarding the colour of the hub,
    red vs blue was the issue, but the details are a little fuzzy now.

    Early in my quest to solve cooling issues, I remember digging thru my spares pile, finding one of the other colour and noticing improved cooling under load, kicks in sooner.
    Might be worth looking into?

    Last straw in the box seems to be plugged with sludgy debris, hope your water jackets don't have a similar issue
    -Tim did a write up on that topic, too.
    (But before going there I would double check everything else (again), just in case.)
    I dislike tearing down engines, unless I absolutely have too

  16. #96
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    Re: Radiator for 4WD

    I made the scoop that Tim did and that seems to help a bit with the temps unless it's an extremely hot day and I'm going highway speeds for hours. The only bad side effect of that is that all of the scooped air is forcing a lot of the heat into the cabin (through?) the dash cracks. While the AC condenser fan blowing down seemed like a bad setup I'm now wondering after driving a 1200 mile trip if forcing hot air down (and out) isn't such a bad idea. I think that the "hood" and engine area is creating a bubble of hot air that just gets hotter and hotter and rises so even if any does move past the radiator it's super heated. Even with the scoop I'm not convinced there is actually much ventilation happening apart from forcing more hot air up.

    I had good success with my old space cruiser(which doesn't overheat even in AZ summers) by removing the engine blanket and replacing it with a thinner doghouse insulation used by hot rods so that there is room for air to move across the top and down. It still retained the AC condenser fan, hence my theory. In my current townace which is running a bit too hot for my liking I plan to reinstall a downward facing fan or cut and put in ventilation grills in the hood similar to what you'd see in a Jeep setup with their bonnet hood air vents depending on the looks. I've also done some research on the waterless coolant though I think i read here or otherwise that the engine would run hotter though temps would be more stable.

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