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Thread: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

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    Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Hey, Howzit? I think I'm about to remove the upper half of my intake in order to check my #3 and 4 injectors and wiring. Before I do that though I'd like to get some opinions and maybe some advice on what to look for, what else I might do while I'm at it or maybe a ''wait check this first.''

    Here's what I'm looking at on my van which had been sitting for 10 years or so but had been running very strong for me for about a month. Good spark to cylinders and compression okay. (Double checked by mechanic). When I pull the #4 plug cap no change in running condition.
    Sometimes #3 goes out also. Tapped on the bar that the injectors sit on and #3 kicked in.

    The reason that I'm not sure I wanna pull the intake off to check the injectors and wiring is that when it started running on 3 cyl. (possibly 2) some weird things happened. First I had Christmas Lights.
    Next my alternator belt snapped. Pretty sure after the dash lights came on. Though I realize they'd come on immediately once the belt snapped. Drove it a bit and it did get pretty hot enough to gurgle a few times but didn't let it up into the red.

    It starts up easily. Runs on 3 cyl though I'm trying not to drive it unless I have to. It was really an all of the sudden type thing. Never had any hesitation. No fuel leaks (that I know of) Plenty of power.
    Mechanic even strangely says that he didn't notice the injector problem until after he replaced the cat. He said it was running really well after replacing a belt and adjusting the throttle.
    It was running on 2 cyl. when I pulled out of his shop. I'm pretty sure it was only on 2 or 3 when I brought it in. Don't know what to make of that.

    Could this be an ECU problem? EFI relay fuse? Wiring circuit? Any way to check those with an ohm meter or volt meter? Most of the knowledge I have on motors has come from searching forums but I'm digging it. Actually glad to have something to work on now and I just moved into a place with a dry garage.

    ECU looks okay on visual inspection but I think I remember an odd elec. type smell the morning it started misfiring. If I do need to remove the intake, what will I need and need to know? And as far as injectors? O-rings etc., I'd appreciate any help with where to get parts etc.
    Last edited by freeb; 09-22-2010 at 11:06 AM.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Welcome aboard freeb . Your problem can be any number of things, but Toyota's injectors are pretty tough and so are their ECUs. So IMO both of these would be low on the list of possibilities.......maybe the 2 very last things I would suspect. The improvement in running by tapping on the fuel rail seems to suggest an injector issue, but it could also be a coincidence. I'm not saying it isn't injector related, I'm just saying I'd check a bunch of other things before splitting the manifold and/or removing injectors.

    My 1st question would be about trouble codes. Did you check for codes in your ECU? There may or may not be any codes present, but checking for them can often provide valuable clues, so anytime you experience a problem, codes should be checked before any corrective action is taken.

    My 2nd question would be maintenance related. When was the last time you tuned up your van? Do you know how long it's been since the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor were replaced? If you don't know, then I would suggest replacing these parts 1st. Often times a miss can be caused by lack of maintenance. Even if the problem isn't here, if it's time anyhow then you've got nothing to lose.

    Speaking of maintenance, when was the last time the alternator belt was replaced ? Unless too tight or too loose, belts stay reliable for around 60k miles / 5 years, so having one break indicates incorrect tension, lack of maintenance, or both. Regardless, having multiple cluster lights come on at the same time usually indicates a charge system problem, so unless you're sure they came on before the belt broke, I'd just chalk it up to the broken belt. If this continues to happen after the belt is replaced, then I'd take look at your charging system 1st.

    If you've had a recent tune-up and still have the miss problem, then the next thing you should check for is vacuum leaks. Pay particular attention to your air intake hose as these tend to crack near the throttle body. To verify it's condition, give it a good squeeze while the engine is idling. If the engine stumbles or stalls, then chances are you've got a cracked intake tube. You should also inspect all of your vacuum lines to make sure they are secure and in good condition. If all these look good, then the next thing to check is the fuel pressure. Other possibilities could be a failing ignition coil or a failing igniter, but these items are further down the list of likely possibilities. IMO, due to the access issue and the proven reliability of these injectors, splitting your manifold just to check would be way, way down on that list. Tim

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Yeah, I just don't feel like its the injector itself. Thanks for the reply and info Tim. I haven't had the van for very long. Only a month or two.

    Sorry, forgot to mention the codes. I was getting 21 and 51 for trouble codes. I put in a new upstream O2 sensor and its now giving me 51 only. Thats another reason I don't think its the fuel injector like my mechanic was suggesting. Only after me saying electrical a dozen times did he give in and say ''yeah it could be that.'' He wasn't aware of the code either.

    I did do new plugs and wires just 100 miles ago while trying to pass emissions testing. Should mention that the #3 cyl had a spark plug that was about a 1/2 inch too short. Don't know what was going on there. Didn't get into the distributor. Wasn't having any misfiring at the time. Mechanic said its definitely not the distributor. He checked for spark and I did as well though I think I will double check. I may go ahead and do the cap and rotor like you suggest though.

    There is a leak in the big intake hose by the throttle body. Put some glue on it temporarily. I was squeezing it before and it'd cut out and stall but a leak wouldn't kill a cylinder completely would it?

    I can't find any other vacuum leaks but I do here hissing from the area of the EGR. Pretty sure its not just the hose. That normal?

    I need to get this thing right. Its supposed to be my daily driver and I have a new job starting next week.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Code 51 is almost certainly a bad TPS. Replacing it is pretty straight forward, but getting the correct adjustment is key. HERE is a good thread on testing and adjustment. The 2nd page has specific instructions that pertain to this.

    Still, even though your TPS may be bad, it shouldn't create a miss. It would merely make the van sluggish and the fuel economy would go down. Vacuum leaks can create miss-like symptoms, but not always from the same cylinders. It concerns me a bit to hear you have a known cracked intake tube and have chosen a band-aid repair over replacement. I realize you may not have a lot of money, but these tubes are still available from Toyota for about $75 (and they last about 20 years). If you do the math, this is only $3.75 per year to completely eliminate this variable. If you can't swing the $75, there is always the salvage yards. Last time I got one of these at a pick-n-pull it only cost me $5 (and it looked almost new). Another thing you may want to re-check is the metal fitting that goes into the bottom of your intake tube. Did you take the tube off when you put the "glue" on it? If so, make sure you got the metal fitting and all of it's hoses back in the right places and secure.

    Another variable to consider is the possibility of crappy aftermarket tune-up parts. I have no idea what brand stuff you purchase, but I'd like to point out the importance of high quality items here. Plugs, plug wires, cap & rotor should all be OEM quality (I prefer genuine Toyota). Getting the cheapest stuff in this area can end up costing you more in the long run (and sometimes even the "short run"). I have strong opinions about this because some of the toughest troubleshooting jobs I've encountered ended up being the result of poor quality tune-up parts. Sometimes a poor quality set of wires will work fine going to an OEM distributor cap, but if that cap is also poor quality, then the wires may not engage correctly and/or not make good contact. Sometimes just having new parts isn't enough, quality is an important consideration. Okay, so I'm ranting......back to the subject at hand........

    When you pull the distributor cap, look for carbon build up on the inside where the conductors are. Also inspect the inside of the cap for eaten up conductors and / or any signs of moisture. You mentioned that your "mechanic" said the spark was fine. Did he happen to mention how he verified this? I'm guessing he just took a plug out and watched the spark jump on the electrode. This is always a good indication that spark is there, but by no means a way to verify the strength of the spark. Keep in mind that it's about 10X or so normal atmosphere inside the cylinder when the spark plug is firing. Just because a spark will jump at atmospheric pressure doesn't mean it will jump at 150+ psi. This is why I mentioned the possibility of a weak or failing coil or igniter.

    At this point, before you do anything else you should check the inside of your distributor cap and the rotor......better yet to just replace these with quality parts. If the parts you've already replaced are of questionable quality, then you may consider replacing those again as well. If you still have your old parts you could always swap things around just to make sure. If you swap a part and the problem goes away, then you've most likely just stumbled onto the reason. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Tim

    PS: Why was the cat converter replaced? If it was plugged up, it could very well have damaged your EGR and/or the modulator.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Just did new cap and rotor. No change. Everything is Napa. (not that I think that is the causing the misfire.) Since I already had Napa's wires in, I figured the cap should at least make good contact with the wires. Plugs are NGK. I did try the old wires plus testing them on an ohm meter. Continuity was fine. Also tried switching plugs around.

    Toyota in Portland wanted around $118 for the hose. I do plan on replacing it but I'm going by priority. The dead cylinder is first on the list right now.

    I do have other questions regarding the EGR, TPS plus a few other things but that's after the cylinder is undead.

    Funny that you mention the fitting on the bottom of the intake tube. I swear the rear hose was off last time I got it back from the mechanic before I started playing with it. A small hose from the modulator to the EGR also.

    No carbon on the distributor contacts. Some corrosion though. Rotor had corrosion too.

    What's next? Is it possible to test the igniter and coil rather than just replacing?

    Cat was replaced in order to pass emissions. I was way over (HC's 587, CO 2.0) and the mechanic I was using had gotten it very close to passing after it running extremely rich. It was a little over in everything first time around then the numbers doubled for the next test. He said that he had cheated the test the last try (6th) before doing the cat. I'd love to know what he meant by cheating. Don't know if he caused other problems.
    Last edited by freeb; 09-20-2010 at 05:53 PM.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Found in the manual how to test the ignition coil. Primary tested at 0 ohms with my old skool multimeter. (the type with the needle. moves from left to right with zero to the right of scale.) Manual says it should be between 1.2 and 1.5. Secondary tested at 8.2. which is in the the acceptable range of 7.5 to 10.5. Tested while cold. Am I in need of a new ignition coil?
    Last edited by freeb; 09-20-2010 at 06:03 PM.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    That's funny he replaced the cat due to a failed emissions test, but didn't replace a bad TPS? If everything else is dialed in, these vans will pass the test even without a cat. Cats do make a difference, but not nearly as much as some of the other emissions related parts do. Some mechanics will recommend priorities based on their profit margins.......are you sure this isn't what's going on here? The air intake tube is Toyota part #17881-73020 and is available for $71.22 at 1stToyotaParts.com. Of course they will also want $9.95 shipping though. You might try Tonkin Toyota in Portland and ask them if they will match 1stToyotaParts.com's price........more often than not they will do it.

    As for the coil and the igniter, I can tell you that having a coil fail is not uncommon. Igniters can fail too, but do so far less often than the coils. I don't know if your coil is good or bad though. An analog meter may not be sensitive enough to tell the difference between 1.5 ohms and 0??? Many meters are not capable of that. When I get stuck on an issue like this I usually double check by swapping parts from my parts vans. It's kind of sloppy troubleshooting I guess, but it's usually quicker and easier than doing it by the book. I realize not everybody has that luxury, but there is always the pick-n-pull. to be honest, both times I've had coils fail I never actually changed them. Both times I just grabbed an extra distributor and stuffed it in there.........and I experienced instant gratification .

    Napa usually carries pretty decent tune-up parts, so you're probably okay there. The fact that you swapped stuff around should pretty much rule out the possibility of these parts being bad. I don't know of any test for the igniter. Even the Toyota service manual states "try another igniter" rather than give a testing procedure.

    Have you pulled your plugs out after running to see if they are wet with fuel? If so, then it's almost certainly an ignition issue. If not, then perhaps you should go back to looking at the injectors.

    I really hate to tell you to replace your coil or igniter without knowing if that's the problem, but you're running out of other things. I would probably do a fuel pressure test before swapping any more parts, but if that were the problem, it would be more pronounced at higher speeds (when the demand for fuel is higher). But that isn't what's happening here.........is it?

    Without hands on it's tough to troubleshoot. I'm running out of advice so I hope you find it soon. Good luck and let us know what you find. Tim

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Thanks for the help so far Tim. I know its tough to diagnose something like this without being there. Thoughts and opinions are definitely appreciated though. I'm starting to think that my problems are worse than I was originally thinking. But I've already put well over $1K into it and.... I just like the thing.

    Installed the new ignition coil. Started up on 3 cyl then began running on 2.
    Rented a compression test gauge because I just don't trust the mechanic I was dealing with.
    Warmed it up as best I could. My temp gauge won't go any higher than about 1/4 way to H since my alt belt snapped and it got pretty hot a few times. Maybe a bad thermostat? Radiator light has been coming on and off too.

    1st test read 130 psi on 1, 135 on 2, 130 on 3 and 110 on 4. So I was thinking ''bad valve''.
    Tried testing #1 again right after and i got around 80 psi instead of 130 like the first reading.



    Drove it some more thinking maybe it cooled down too much in order to accurately test again and I got 80psi for #1, 70 for #2, 85 for #3, 75 for #4. I'm baffled by that.

    A couple other things to note:
    1) smell of gas after shutting off.
    2) 1st and 2nd plug are dry. 3rd plug wet and smell like gas. Oily sludge on the top of thread near tip. Not the spark area. 4th plug same as 3rd.
    3) smoke coming from #1 cyl after pulling plug and driving around a while. That normal? Cylinder just working too hard?
    4)Terrible gas mileage.
    5)Ticking sound.
    6)Misfire and stumbling goes from bad to worse when put into gear.

    ***7)Runs on 4 cylinders for the first second after starting if its been sitting a while. (this seems like an indication of something. Just don't know what.

    I would agree that the mechanic wanted to sell me on the cat. I had him do the exhaust manifold and just stuck with him. Tough to find a good mechanic when there's so many to choose from. EGR and TPS are next on my list if I can repair whats going on now without breaking the bank.

    Doesn't seem to be an issue with demand for gas at higher speeds. Never noticed that when it was running smooth either. Thanks for the info on the Intake Hose. $80 isn't too bad. Glue was bad. Duct tape for a quick fix but glue?
    Last edited by freeb; 09-22-2010 at 05:43 PM.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    I have a couple of used air hoses I've been stockpiling. I can let one go for 20 plus actual freight if interested. Obviously, these are not new, but in good shape and still somewhat flexible. PM if interested and I will send you a proper invoice.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    I just had these same two codes until a few weeks ago. I humbly recommend you start by removing your air intake hose and check for cracks/leaks. If you're on a tight budget, get some good high temp silicone to fill in/patch up any cracks. This will hold together for a long while until you can afford to replace with a new hose.

    Before putting the repaired or new hose on, remove the throttle body and clean it good with 1-2 bottles of throttle body cleaner. Do not be soft of this application. Clean out the passages, especially the EGR passage located just on the lower right side inside the plenum. Thoroughly clean the throttle plate.

    Before putting the throttle body back on, follow Tim's instructions on replacing the TPS...to the T. Do not over torque the setting screws for it can throw the TPS out of spec. Once you then reinstall the throttle body with your new TPS, check to make sure the specs are still on. The slightess nudge can through it out of spec.

    Then, make sure your base and advance ignition timing is dead on.

    Also, replace your O2 sensor if needed. You can get a universal aftermarket O2 sensor for around $50. Autozone also has a TPS made in Italy they can order for you for $70-80 if you don't want to pay the +$100 from Toyota.

    Good luck!

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Thanks for that info. The short term fix on my intake hose has been some rubber safe glue. Hack, I know. Thanks to NEC, I'll have one that I can be sure has no leak. I'm going to Napa today for a new PCV valve and grommet and will check if they have a decent TPS. If not I'll put in the order with Autozone.

    I was planning on checking my TPS operation by disconnecting the harness and seeing if there'd be any change in running condition. (ie: cylinders start firing again.)
    Found it to be already disconnected. The connection doesn't click and secure as it should.

    Anyway, plugged it in and no change. Still starts up on all 4 then 1 second later its on 2 cylinders. Maybe the tps is bad? Hard to believe that it could kill cylinders though.

    On a side note, my Brother in Law who is a mechanic/dealer in Japan suggested the Cold Start Injector or Water Thermo Sensor among other things. Anybody think I could at least rule that out? I tested the Water Thermo Sensor and it was okay. Cold Start Injector Timing switch readings were off. My multimeter went out on me while testing at the ECU so anymore voltage and ohm reading checks are on hold. Hoping its the fuse.

    Tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake gasket and no change.
    ****I keep forgetting to mention this but my Temp gauge is only rising about 1/4 of the way at most.**** Radiator light is on also. Mechanic said its probably t-stat. Dunno.
    Last edited by freeb; 09-24-2010 at 01:46 PM.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Temp gauge at 1/4 might be normal. Most vans run around 40-45% +/- on the gauge, but a minority are perfectly normal outside that range. I know one guy whose van is totally normal at 75% (scary!); Skylervan is totally normal at 25% (in fact, over 50% is minutes from overheating, and if I'd known that 45% wasn't normal for him when I bought him, I would have saved myself the expense of a head job).

    The "radiator" light is supposed to tell you when the reserve tank drops below the "add" line. So check the reserve tank first.

    IF the level is OK, something about the switch wiring is faulty (and it would be a darn good idea to fix it once your other problem is under control because every bit of valid information about anomalies in the cooling system is vital to keeping your van alive). The switch is NLA and the grommet between switch and reserve tank only came with the switch, so DO NOT remove the switch from the reserve tank!!! For now, you can get the light to go out by unplugging the reserve tank switch itself. Click here and reference the second photo.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    That's good info on the temp gauge, thanks. It was running around 40-45% for the 1000 miles or so I'd put on it since I've had it until the alt belt snapped and it came real close to overheating. Now its doing the 20% or so thing. Weird...

    Anybody know if its possible to use a matching ECU from California with a non California van?

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Quote Originally Posted by timsrv View Post
    Welcome aboard freeb . Your problem can be any number of things, but Toyota's injectors are pretty tough and so are their ECUs. So IMO both of these would be low on the list of possibilities.......maybe the 2 very last things I would suspect. The improvement in running by tapping on the fuel rail seems to suggest an injector issue, but it could also be a coincidence. I'm not saying it isn't injector related, I'm just saying I'd check a bunch of other things before splitting the manifold and/or removing injectors.

    My 1st question would be about trouble codes. Did you check for codes in your ECU? There may or may not be any codes present, but checking for them can often provide valuable clues, so anytime you experience a problem, codes should be checked before any corrective action is taken.

    My 2nd question would be maintenance related. When was the last time you tuned up your van? Do you know how long it's been since the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor were replaced? If you don't know, then I would suggest replacing these parts 1st. Often times a miss can be caused by lack of maintenance. Even if the problem isn't here, if it's time anyhow then you've got nothing to lose.

    Speaking of maintenance, when was the last time the alternator belt was replaced ? Unless too tight or too loose, belts stay reliable for around 60k miles / 5 years, so having one break indicates incorrect tension, lack of maintenance, or both. Regardless, having multiple cluster lights come on at the same time usually indicates a charge system problem, so unless you're sure they came on before the belt broke, I'd just chalk it up to the broken belt. If this continues to happen after the belt is replaced, then I'd take look at your charging system 1st.

    If you've had a recent tune-up and still have the miss problem, then the next thing you should check for is vacuum leaks. Pay particular attention to your air intake hose as these tend to crack near the throttle body. To verify it's condition, give it a good squeeze while the engine is idling. If the engine stumbles or stalls, then chances are you've got a cracked intake tube. You should also inspect all of your vacuum lines to make sure they are secure and in good condition. If all these look good, then the next thing to check is the fuel pressure. Other possibilities could be a failing ignition coil or a failing igniter, but these items are further down the list of likely possibilities. IMO, due to the access issue and the proven reliability of these injectors, splitting your manifold just to check would be way, way down on that list. Tim

    and do not overlook the injector conn ends that falll apart/ and your gas tank is more than likey full of rust if has been sitting for 10 years.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Hey Freeb, Sorry about the late response. I've been working a job out of town since Tuesday and just returned (no internet access there). It's good to see others are chiming in here with good advice . I had a few questions about the compression test, like how you did it, but then I found that there's a few good videos on youtube that explain it well. Here's a good one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbk...eature=related . Go ahead and watch that to make sure you were doing it right. If you weren't, then the test doesn't mean much. Here's one that shows the test being done on a van (Click on the photo to view......not sure who that handsome guy is )


    If the plugs are wet and smell like gas, then it's not likely injector or injector connector related. Tim

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Ahh, thanks for those video's. First thing I noticed, was that the gauge needle should stick at the highest reading. The gauge I borrowed isn't doing that. It drops immediately after each turn of the engine. Very hard to get a reading off.

    But that makes me wonder if its a problem with the gauge or is something going on like a blown head gasket???

    I'm also wondering if its too late to be draining the gas tank. Its been run down toward empty a few times already. Rust may have done its damage but hopefully it wouldn't have gotten past the fuel filter?

    I'm going to hold off on installing the new TPS I just picked up from Toyota.

    BTW, thanks NEC, just got the hose delivered as I was typing this. A lot more plyable than the one I had.
    Last edited by freeb; 09-29-2010 at 05:28 PM.

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Sounds like the compression tester you used was defective. There is a release valve on the side of the gauge that traps the pressure until you're done testing. After recording results you release pressure and and move on to the next cylinder. I don't know how much $$$ compression testers go for these days, but the one in my video only cost me about $20 at my local parts house.........of course that was about 20 years ago. Even with todays prices I can't imagine a simple one like mine costing more than $40. I also have the expensive Snap-on compression testing set, but I actually prefer this one, so the Snap-on set sits in my garage collecting dust.

    At this point I think getting an accurate compression test should be your priority. I should have mentioned the importance of this much earlier, but it slipped my mind . If you have good compression, good spark, air & gas in each cylinder, then it will run correctly. So which ingredient(s) are missing in #3 & #4? Tim

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    So I got a gauge that worked... Man, I wasted a lot of time with the bad one.

    Here are my readings: #1 125psi. #2 130psi. #3 135psi. #4 145psi.

    Since the 2 cylinders which aren't firing are #3 and 4, I should be able to rule out any compression related issues I think.

    My TPS tested okay according to the manuals specs. I have tried clearing the ECU by disconnecting the battery and I still am getting code 51. Could this be the ECU itself I would test the ECU but I broke my multimeter last time I tried. Just got a new one but a little hesitant to break another.

    Thanks again for the compression testing 101 video, Tim. I should mention that the # 3 and 4 plugs aren't very wet at all after idling. (Maybe just a drop of fuel). However, if I actually take the van for a drive they will be wet.

    I've gotta ask what the cold start injector does and if it could have anything to do with the issue?
    Last edited by freeb; 10-02-2010 at 03:54 PM.

  19. #19
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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    That's not the greatest results on a compression test, but I agree this isn't your immediate problem. If you reset codes by disconnecting the battery, you will need to leave it disconnected for at least 30 seconds, then to be sure it's not storing a new code, re-check before starting the engine.

    These ECUs rarely fail, but they can and do. Based on everything else you've either checked or changed, I'm starting to think it could be an ECU or maybe the igniter. Get used stuff at the salvage yard or maybe off of eBay. Tim

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    Re: Injector(s) vs. Wiring vs. ECU vs. ??

    Just discovered something. My van is a California Van. I'm trying to decide if I want to lay down the $90 for an ECU off Ebay yet. May look for an igniter at the junk yard tomorrow.

    Just don't get why the plugs aren't really wet until its driven. Could it be the injector's after all? Why would the 2 cylinders be completely dead? Why did it start with only 1 being dead? Sorry, just thinking and typing. I need to get this van back on the road.

    I'm wondering if there would be any other differences besides the ECU in a Cali van? Vacuum lines or anything? I just want to be sure the mechanic that did some work on it didn't overlook something since it was the emissions issue he was working on.

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