Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345
Results 81 to 100 of 100

Thread: The fusible link thread

  1. #81
    Van Fan
    My Van(s):
    Currently: 89 4wd Toyota Van auto 87 4wd Toyota Van 5spd 84 2wd Toyota Van Auto Country Homes Poptop Previous: 89 Mitsubishi Star Wagon (Delica) 87 Toyota Van Le (2wd) 82 VW Vanagon Diesel Camper
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Northeast USA
    Posts
    29
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: The fusible link thread

    Timsrv, I can't tell who made my core. If it came from Autozone and it's not a Denso it's not worth rebuilding again right? Even with Denso parts?

  2. #82
    Administrator timsrv's Avatar
    My Van(s):
    Lots of them
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    SW WA ST
    Posts
    6,079
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: The fusible link thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Earthlin View Post
    Timsrv, I can't tell who made my core. If it came from Autozone and it's not a Denso it's not worth rebuilding again right? Even with Denso parts?
    Your alternator was originally manufactured by Denso, but it's most likely been rebuilt with lesser quality aftermarket parts, then resold by Autozone. If you knew where to get the genuine Denso parts (and at a reasonable price), all you'd need to do is replace whichever part failed inside (probably the diode block) with Denso. Since we don't have access to the good OE Denso parts at affordable prices, the next best thing is to purchase the entire Denso unit (actually rebuilt by Denso). That link I provided earlier is actually a pretty good deal. If I were wanting another, I'd get one of those.

    Of course this is assuming your alternator has failed. There's other things (like the alternator harness) that can create this same issues. If you take your old alternator off and it tests bad, then just get the Denso unit. I'm telling you from experience, unless something has changed, the cheap rebuilds don't last (been there done that).

    A cheaper alternative might be to go shopping at an auto salvage yard. As mentioned in that other thread (linked to above) there are several other vehicles that use similar Denso alternators. Their external cases may have different mount configurations, but the internals are the same. When I'm running low on alternator parts I will look for original Denso alternators on other vehicles, then remove the parts I need (inside the yard). The guys at the counter usually don't recognize alternator parts as big sales items and will often let me have them for a couple bucks. If I'm getting other bigger items, they'll usually just throw those in for free. Tim

  3. #83
    Forum Newbie
    My Van(s):
    In Search
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Boulder, CO
    Posts
    3
    Rep Power
    0

    Re: The fusible link thread

    Theres some smoking coming from the FL2.0L fusible link right at the connector to the battery terminal. I noticed it after jumping the battery. I'm not too surprised it was dead because it had been sitting for a few weeks, but this has never been a problem before. There are no other issues that I can tell. I'm wondering if there's a short somewhere causing the smoking, but I have no clue where to start looking? Any suggestions?

  4. #84
    Administrator timsrv's Avatar
    My Van(s):
    Lots of them
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    SW WA ST
    Posts
    6,079
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: The fusible link thread

    At some point you just need to get in there and replace things. Battery terminal ends don't last forever and this is a common place for corrosion. Little wisps of smoke at battery terminals/connection points are indicators there's too much resistance at a connection. Anything other than shiny metal in these locations should be either cleaned until shiny or replaced. Then all connections need to be tight. A good measure of prevention is also recommended. You can get anti corrosive compound at any auto parts store and/or even places like Walmart. I like to put that stuff on each terminal before attaching (so the stuff is down in there). If the terminals are bad enough to replace, you'll either need to buy a good set of crimpers or take the van into an auto electric place and pay them to do it.

    Even though I keep things clean and tight, I still find myself needing to get into these areas to clean/replace every 5 years or so. Batteries will often lose their seal between the plastic and the lead posts. When that happens the corrosion problem becomes more severe and requires more care/maintenance. If that becomes a constant issue, you might be better off replacing your battery and the affected terminals and be done with it......at least until it happens again . Tim

  5. #85
    Van Fan
    My Van(s):
    1987 4x4
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    70
    Rep Power
    1

    Thumbs down Stranded: Fusable link/Alternator circuit issues

    So my van is stranded with some wiring issue. Someone replaced the fusable link thatís in the alternator circuit with a inline fuse holder and a 40 amp fuse. The van keeps blowing that fuse after the van gets above 1500rpm. The van will idle for a long time with no issue just once you put load of rev the engine it will blow the fuse and I lose all power, but the engine is still able to run/drive. I havenít found out how big of a fuse it melt but it melted 16ga wire that I tried to jumper the fuse to get the van home. This 40aml fuse has been working great for thousands and thousands of miles, and for months and months Iíve had no electrical issues. Totally unrelated but I just got done replacing rotors, calipers, wheel bearings and the car sat for 2 weeks but I have no idea how that caused any problem related to this.

    I donít have a volt meter on me to test anything. Could my alternator finally be dead?

  6. #86
    Van Obsessed
    My Van(s):
    1988 4WD LE auto dual range t-case (the mistress) 1988 4WD LE auto(the donut van)
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Tacoma, Wa
    Posts
    565
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: Stranded: Fusable link/Alternator circuit issues

    Your alternator is capable of producing 70amps. If your van has sat a few weeks, the battery may be low and asking for more amperage to recharge. When you rev the engine the alternator is putting out more amperage than the fuse can handle. I believe the ampacity rating of 16 gauge is maybe 10amps. So, the big question before you try putting a 70amp fuse in that holder is, "What gauge is your charge wire?".

  7. #87
    Van Enthusiast boogieman's Avatar
    My Van(s):
    1989 4x4 5 speed dlx 1987 4x4 5 speed cargo 1987 4x4 5 speed LE 1987 2wd 5 speed cargo conversion 1989 2wd auto cargo parts van
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    abq, nm
    Posts
    203
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: Stranded: Fusable link/Alternator circuit issues

    do you get a charge light with key on not running? maybe youve gone full field on the charging circuit from a bad regulator or fusible link...

  8. 06-06-2018, 11:56 PM


  9. #88
    Van Fan
    My Van(s):
    1987 4x4
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    70
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: Stranded: Fusable link/Alternator circuit issues

    Quote Originally Posted by originalkwyjibo View Post
    Your alternator is capable of producing 70amps. If your van has sat a few weeks, the battery may be low and asking for more amperage to recharge. When you rev the engine the alternator is putting out more amperage than the fuse can handle. I believe the ampacity rating of 16 gauge is maybe 10amps. So, the big question before you try putting a 70amp fuse in that holder is, "What gauge is your charge wire?".
    This makes a lot of sense. The only part of the wiring that has been altered in the charging circuit is where the fuse holder has been added. So it is all factory wires until the fuse holder which looks to be around 10 gauge, the factory wires that were spliced are about the same gauge and definitely not ďbattery cableĒ thickness. I can get a picture of the wires in question. I need to replace that fuse holder anyways since the holder got fried.

  10. #89
    Van Obsessed
    My Van(s):
    88 4WD DLX 5spd
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    779
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: Stranded: Fusable link/Alternator circuit issues

    Most quality auto parts stores will fusible link wire and ring terminals and you could rig up the equivalent of the factory piece.
    Fuses and fusible link do not operate the same way, fuses blow, links slowly melt under excessive amperage.
    I'd want to recreate the factory wiring then see if you really have a problem and if so, diagnose it accordingly.

    From the Fusible Link Thread, as per Tim

    "The "B" in the 1.25B relates to the diameter of the fuse wire. The bigger the wire, the more current it can handle before it blows. I don't have a conversion chart handy, but I'm estimating that 1.25B is equivalent to about 80A. You'd think by the mid 80's Toyota would have been labeling everything in amps &/or using conventional breakers / fuses."

    Clearly, a 40Amp fuse isn't going to cut the mustard!

  11. #90
    Forum Newbie
    My Van(s):
    87 2WD Van 96 Previa SC (RIP)
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    17
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: The fusible link thread

    Would you believe that this FL 0.5G fusible link passes a continuity test?

    It does!

    Name:  20190403_205053.jpg
Views: 177
Size:  88.2 KB

    Going to replace that, just on general principles, according to Tim's water-tight fuse-holder solution. I should probably not be testing continuity with the fusible link removed, right? I should instead be testing by putting one lead of the multimeter on a battery terminal.

    Similarly, is there any way to test the FL 2.0L fusible link? I expect that the only thing to do is to cut it out and crimp in a replacement, no? I have not stripped off the "soft grey loose-fitting plastic cover" but I expect that the only thing to do is cut it out. I am reluctant to do so because Tim's description of the symptoms of a failed FL 2.0L fusible link don't match my van's behavior. (That is: no dash lights, dim door light, nasty electrical buzzing sound coming from somewhere near the fusebox and the RPM relay.)

  12. #91
    Van Obsessed
    My Van(s):
    88 4WD DLX 5spd
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    779
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: The fusible link thread

    As you are starting to find, many years of PO's and questionable repairs (see FL 0.5G pic)
    you will start to value the time you "waste" going over things, you will find more scary stuff and eliminating the scary "repairs" is the first step to getting a reliable van.

    A continuity test merely looks at "is the wire intact from one end to the other".
    Where you choose to measure the one "end" from is your business.
    IOW, The circuit doesn't care if you are measuring the continuity with the FL installed or not.
    Doing a continuity test will not cause any harm. It also won't tell you the wires ability to handle a load. (again, see pic FL 0.5G)

    Fusible links by nature, are designed to MELT under excessive amperage, if its been exposed to such an event, it will be visually obvious. cutting away the insulation would only tell you what state the copper wiring is in (corroded?) but won't really add anything to the diagnostic procedure.

    Not having the indications of a problem is a great thing and there is the old sleeping dog thing.
    Then again, knowing that this has been an issue for many and if you replaced it now and know its good, its one less thing to be concerned about down the road.
    The decision to action FL 2.0L is yours, and yours alone.

  13. #92
    Forum Newbie
    My Van(s):
    87 2WD Van 96 Previa SC (RIP)
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    17
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: The fusible link thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Burntboot View Post
    The decision to action FL 2.0L is yours, and yours alone.
    You know, your response was rather deeper than the one I expected. You are right on the money, though. If I consider your post in the light of the further troubleshooting I've done of the van's electrical system (ugh), cleaning off or clipping out corrosion where warranted, I don't think that "just pierce the housing with the probe" would be a satisfying or meaningful answer. It looks and feels okay, and I didn't need to replace it to get the electrical up and running again, but I would very much enjoy the feeling of not having to worry about it further down the road.

    So: FL 2.0L has been added to the List of Dogs to Wake Up Real Soon Now, but not at the top of the list. I'm buying the parts to roll my own fusible links & fuse replacements today, not waiting for my next electrical problem! Many thanks for your input, both technical and otherwise.

  14. #93
    Forum Newbie
    My Van(s):
    1987 LE
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1
    Rep Power
    0

    60 amp fuse link

    Had to replace 60 amp fuse link(cleaned fuse box). Van ran, new plugs,wires, cap,rotor, fuel pump,won't fire now. Ran previously, missed, burnt plug wire,(even after 12 yr sabbatical). Wondering if I got the wiring right to the 60amp fuse link. Looks right according to schematic, but, not sure.Can anyone tell me, simply, which wires go to the 60amp fuse link(colors)? Rarely join forums, guess I posted wrongly before, Tim.
    Thanks for any help.

  15. #94
    Van Obsessed
    My Van(s):
    88 4WD DLX 5spd
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    779
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: 60 amp fuse link

    As long as you connected the same 2 wires that were originally connected to the 60A fuse then all should be good, it is fairly difficult to attach a wrong wire there as all the others (in that fuse block) are push connector but the main 60A is a bolt on connection from the backside.

  16. #95
    Van Fan
    My Van(s):
    1988 LE
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Ketchum, Idaho
    Posts
    49
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: The fusible link thread

    Looking to tackle this, this weekend. Iíve read this thread through a number of times. Is my understanding correct:

    FL 1.25B ó Toyota Part #90982-08276 (NLA). If FL box and posts are still intact, replace with 12ga fusible link wire and ring connectors.
    ó If FL box is destroyed/excessively corroded, replace with 80A slow blow fuse

    FL 0.5G ó Replace with waterproof fuse holder and 15A fuse

    EFI ó Replace with 30A
    AM2 ó Replace with 30A
    Headlight ó Replace with 40A
    AM1 ó Replace with 80A Toyota part #90982-08203

    FL 2.0L ó Replace by splicing in 12ga fusible link wire


    Does it look like I correctly understand what I have read?

  17. #96
    Administrator timsrv's Avatar
    My Van(s):
    Lots of them
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    SW WA ST
    Posts
    6,079
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: The fusible link thread

    Sounds about right. Please keep in mind though that the only fusible link I have needed to replace is the FL 0.5G (as shown earlier in this thread). That has worked well and there have been no further issues. Regarding the others, unless there are some obvious issues, I wouldn't replace them (especially the ones behind the power steering reservoir). If you do need to replace the 2 big ones by the battery, and assuming they are not available through Toyota, use the information provided on page 2 of this thread to determine suitable replacements. Tim

  18. #97
    Van Fan
    My Van(s):
    1988 LE
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Ketchum, Idaho
    Posts
    49
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: The fusible link thread

    Thanks for verifying that Tim.

    The plan was to inspect everything this weekend. Based on what I have read in this thread and others, I’m probably doing ok. However, I do like preventative maintenance.

    I did need a jump start recently and since then, I have been getting dimming in my headlights when other accessories are used (brake lights, heater) and my cigarette lighter and clock also stopped working.

    The battery is newish (I left the lights on during the day) and the battery terminal connectors have been replaced. I understand that it could be a relay and I’ve checked the fuses. However, I figured since Whatvan will be turning 200,000mi pretty soon, I should probably give the FL’s a look-see.

    Im continuing down the rabbit hole of electrical threads, any suggestions or links are welcome.

  19. #98
    Van Fan
    My Van(s):
    toyota van awd 1988
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Montreal, Quebec
    Posts
    85
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: The fusible link thread

    After reading all 5 pages on the forum about Fusible link. There is still some questions...

    To make a short story, by an unbelievable distraction, i inverted battery pole while putting a new battery... yep... first time in my 47 years old life (shame on me, don't say more!)

    The fusible 1.25B melted. Others fusible links looks ok, but i will change 0.5B with waterproof fuse holder and 15A fuse.

    For FL 2.0, I donít know if is it ok, but I rewired temporarely melted fusible link 1.25B and started the van and everything looks ok.

    Questions: If everything look normal, should I change anyway FL 2.0 with 12 ga FL? If yes, which lenght?

    I will replace FL 1.25B with 12GA FL wire and ring connectors.

    Last question: After putting battery pole the right way, 2 weeks after, the new battery was completely discharged. No sparks on battery pole. Completely dead. Is it possible that a bad FL could drain the battery? Should I test it with a multimeter if there is current passing thru positive battery pole?

  20. #99
    Administrator timsrv's Avatar
    My Van(s):
    Lots of them
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    SW WA ST
    Posts
    6,079
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: The fusible link thread

    If everything works then your FL 2.0 is good (Assuming it passes a visual test, don't waste your time trying to replace). Having a blown fusible link won't drain the battery. If anything it will prevent your battery from being drained. I'd start by recharging your battery, then check to see if there's a draw. I'm sure you're beyond this, but it's a common mistake for van newbies to not turn the ignition off all the way. Since the ignition tumblers are weak, the key can usually be removed even when its still in the accessory position.

    It's also possible the alternator may have a shorted diode. Here's a thread that may aid you in identifying and repairing a draw. Tim

    https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...r+draw+circuit

  21. #100
    Van Fan
    My Van(s):
    toyota van awd 1988
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Montreal, Quebec
    Posts
    85
    Rep Power
    1

    Re: The fusible link thread

    Thank you Tim!

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •