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Van Fan
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repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
Heya folks - I'm very likely going to get my 1989 4X4 van engine rebuilt. I've gotten some great advice on the best direction to take this from Tim, but I'm also wondering what other repairs would be best to "sneak in" with the rebuild. I've read I should replace the water pump, fan clutch and thermostat while we've got the thing in pieces, but are there other parts you'd recommend replacing? I'd rather get it all done at once than have to go back in later. I'm fairly certain most parts on the van are original at 210k and I am the second owner.
Thanks in advance!
Kestrel
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
anybody? any advice is appreciated!
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Van Addict
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
Anything I could say would probably be reiterating what Tim said-which you should take as the gospel, seriously.
I'd say, FPD, FPR, get injectors checked for flow and replace all seals on them, fuel filter, motor mounts. Probably some more things have slipped my mind at the moment.
I'm in the middle of this project too. I'm almost done with the tear down-it sure is involved. I'd like to hear your experience so far...
Who's doing the rebuild, you or a shop? How much $ will it cost, what shop?
o.k. well good luck to us,
aaron
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
Get a good "Master Rebuild Kit" like the one I got (just go to my blogs and follow my project). That will include tons of stuff, but I wouldn't use the gaskets (at least not the head gasket). I got a complete engine gasket kit from Toyota. Watch the timing gear clearance (read about it in my blog). I show in great detail what to watch for. Since you're replacing cam & lifters, I would also recommend replacing all push rods (not included in the kit). Surprisingly enough I found they were the cheapest from Toyota (about $7 each). I would also buy all new head bolts......at least the big ones (I wouldn't worry about re-using the smaller ones). Definitely buy the Toyota piston ring set............you'll see why if you read my blog. Get a new water pump (not included with the rebuild kit).
Aaron is right about the fuel system stuff. Get a new FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and a new FPD (Fuel pulsation damper). I've been experimenting with aftermarket stuff as Toyota is getting too darned high. I got bit with an aftermarket FPR as the banjo bolt hole was not quite straight with the washer surface.......and it leaked. I had to crank the piss out of it to make it stop, then it only lasted a few months and the pressure went too low. Toyota will want close to $150 for that (if they still have them) but it's worth it. So far I've had good luck with the aftermarket FPD. Definitely have your injectors cleaned/checked out before putting them back into service. Probably a good idea to replace the injector connectors. Here's a thread that talks about injector cleaning: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...ng-Head-Gasket
Then of course there's all the rubber parts, belts & hoses. Like Aaron said replace the motor mounts. If you're skimping you could probably re-use the passenger side, but the driver's side is the one that usually breaks (so at least replace that one). In case you haven't already seen it, here's a link to my "engine rebuild part 1" blog entry: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/e...Rebuild-part-1. The blogs are a bit confusing to navigate through, but if you go in order it's easy to follow. When you get to the bottom of that 1st entry, click on the "next" button & repeat until you get to the last one. I'm sorry that I never quite finished the rebuild blog entries, but I got through all the stuff most people have all the trouble with. One of these days I'll finish it (probably with another engine). Good luck & have fun. Tim
PS: We've covered a lot in the forums, so if you have a question or get stuck, search the forum. If you can't find what you need please post & I'll direct you to the thread you need or answer your question to the best of my ability .
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
Thanks Tim and Aaron! I'm going to be taking her in on Monday for the big surgery. Here is the list I developed for the mechanic compiled from a few sources. Starred/bolded items are meant to be genuine toyota parts. Any thoughts on the water pump being toyota or aftermarket? I want to do it right so I don't have to do it again. Any other additions and/or specifics on these items much appreciated.
*Toyota - complete engine gasket kit
*Toyota - all push rods
*Toyota - piston ring set
*Toyota - thermostat
*Toyota - fuel pressure regulator
any needed belts and hoses
Master Rebuild kit (but not the head gasket)
new head bolts......at least the big ones (your call on the smaller ones).
new water pump
aisin fan clutch (I have one)
Fuel pulsation damper
Coolant sensor
injectors cleaned/checked out
injector connectors
motor mounts. at least replace driver’s side. Both if you think it’s needed/better.
If a new radiator is needed, a high-efficiency core from:
Ability Radiator
260 A Garden Hwy
Yuba City, CA 95991-5500
(530) 673-0813; ask for Greg
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
Yes, that's a good list for starters. Some things you'll need to play by ear. VSV's (Vacuum Switching Valves) come to mind. While it's apart be sure to check them all. Simply apply 12vdc to the contacts & blow through the ports. As long as it clicks when power is applied, and the routing of air changes, it's good. If there's no change, then it's bad. Toyota usually wants around $150 each for these, but I would never pay that unless it was the only option. Most of the pick-n-pull salvage yards will sell to me for around $5 each, and I usually snatch these things up when I'm there.
There are other such things you'll most likely need to test & replace. Most things have test procedures outlined in the service manual. You might as well order the BVSV from Toyota as it's almost a given that will break when you remove it (if it isn't broken already). As for the water pump, I got a bunch of those off rockauto.com a while back for $12 each, and they all turned out to be new OEM pumps. If I remember right I believe they were marketed as Beck Arnley pumps. It's hit & miss with aftermarket though as sometimes you get complete junk. The reason this happens is sometimes aftermarket companies buy items from Toyota, then mark them up to resell. At some point parts become obsolete or don't sell well so these companies will dump them at discount prices. Sometimes Toyota dumps large amounts of obsolete parts into the aftermarket part world for pennies on the dollar & these companies will snatch them up and resell under their brand names.
I know you asked me previously about Portland Engine Rebuilders and I wasn't familiar with them. I asked around and heard glowing reports. One of my regular customers builds show quality hot rods & restores classic cars. He uses them exclusively and is very happy. The two guys that run the place have racing backgrounds and pay high attention to detail (according to him), so I think I'd feel good trusting them with my machine work. Have fun & report back as needed. I'd like to see some pics of your project and get updates from time to time. Tim
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
Great, thanks for all the extra info. I haven't heard of Portland Engine Rebuilders. I am going with M and B Cylinders. I clicked with the guy there and he seems to love Toyota engines. He's got racing background too. I think he'll do a good job for me. I'll keep you updated on the project.
Fingers crossed,
Kestrel
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
I was the one asking about Portland Engine Rebuilders. They quoted me 2200$ for a full rebuild from bringing in a dirty long block. M and B cylinder head is where I had my head done and it looks great(not that I have prior experience to go on)-He's the one that told me it was probably the 4th piston with a stuck ring just by seeing the head. I may bring my block in there too. Hope they don't mix up our blocks! -just kidding.
Last edited by djshimon; 10-25-2013 at 10:03 AM.
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
ha! well, i'm glad to have some sort of endorsement on M and B. my gut tells me they'll do a great job, but it's been wrong before, especially after a night of spicy food. ;)
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Van Addict
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
Hey Kestrel, is the guy from M and B gonna get you a rebuild kit(pistons and timing set,etc)?
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
That's what I'm requesting, yes.
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
hey tim - i provided my list to the mechanic who is working on my van. the only things he had questions about were:
1. injector connectors - he said he doesn't often see these go bad, so wondered if there was something important or different about them that makes it a good idea to replace them
2. radiator from yuba city - he was also curious about going that far for a radiator. i told him it's impossible to get a new one for a 4x4, but he wondered if there was something special about this joint doing a high-efficiency recore.
thoughts?
kestrel
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
On the 4y engine the exhaust manifold is on the same side as the intake (lots of heat in this area). Then there's the top half of the intake that wraps around and covers the injectors (further trapping of heat here). Then there's the fact these are mid-engine vehicles and that means there's no venting of trapped heat from the engine compartment (hot air rises and the only place for it to go would be inside van, therefore the top of our engine compartments are sealed. Standard car configurations have much better venting as the heat can rise and escape through the crack around the periphery of the hood and out through the grill.
In short, all this trapped heat has an adverse effect on rubber and plastic parts. On high mileage vans, it's been my experience that the locking mechanisms for the injector connectors break off when they are squeezed to unlock. If yours don't break and if they don't seem brittle, then perhaps you could re-use. When I replace, I usually go to the salvage yard and rob these off of Subarus. Models from the 90's use this exact connector but they are in a cool & easy to access location. The connectors I've pulled from Subarus have been in pristine condition. You can also purchase these new from aftermarket sources, but I'd be worried about the quality of plastic they use. When it comes to plastic parts like this, I personally would trust used OEM (that's had an easy life) more than I'd trust new aftermarket.
Other radiator shops can also do this job, but the 4wd takes a specific core that many radiator shops don't know how (or won't try) to find (most shops like to use specific brands of cores and very few brands will offer one suitable). The shop in Yuba city has done a lot of these and they are familiar with our radiators. I believe they even have a specific build number for our radiators. In addition their price is very competitive (this would likely off-set shipping charges). Tim
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
Oh yeah, engine porn! How'd you know I had a 4y fetish? Thank you for that .
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
lol! i felt the same way when i saw it, tim! i didn't want to leave the shop. glad you appreciate it.
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
i don't know if you noticed on the last picture...the purple haze above the engine. i'm pretty sure i was about to be raptured along with the engine.
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Van Addict
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
That looks fantastic.
Did they bore the cylinders and/or redo the head? That was a quick turnaround.
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
they did both, djshimon. neither were in too terribly bad shape but enough to have lost a decent amount of compression and fuel economy. i'm itchin' to get her back on the road to see if she's as smart as she is pretty. ;)
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Van Fan
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Re: repairs to sneak in with a rebuild
Hey Tim - I'm having a bit of a dilemma. My mechanic says I need a new radiator, but doesn't seem too keen on getting it recored in Yuba City. He says it's REALLY corroded and recommends getting a new four row, instead of going to the trouble of sending it to Ability. I can push the issue, but is there any reason NOT to go new if it is, in fact, a high-efficiency four row and is comparably priced?
Part of the issue is time, as well, since it's been at the shop for over a month and I'm getting ready to get take it on a long trip. I don't want to delay too much longer so I have time to get it out on the road and make any needed adjustments before the longer trip. Any thoughts are very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Kestrel
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