No. There are several recent threads about no start issues. You might try checking those out. Good luck. Tim
No. There are several recent threads about no start issues. You might try checking those out. Good luck. Tim
Lol my plastic screw thingy is broken as well. I may invest some time in it. During a recent changing of a leaky fuel filter, i found what i think is the a/c clutch wire dangling in between the ac clutch and idler. I cant see the connection point, but the previous owner said the a/c never worked as long as he had it, i wonder if this is why, maybe it still has freon and i can get it goin. The chinese fuel filter had several pre crushed copper washers, im amazed it didnt leak before. i found a replacement for the e.f.i. forklift engines at work.
Oh crap I broke my BVSV... Are replacements still made? This is a great thread btw!
That's why it's most commonly called the "Oh crap I broke it" valve. Toyota part # 90925-05017. Still made as far as I know.
Gwen
1985 5-speed window cargo van set up for llama haulin'; 345K ("Trustyvan")
1989 4WD 5-speed DLX; 410K and an odd sense of humor ("Skylervan")
Wow this is an excellent thread!! Definitely a 5 STAR thread....
I don't understand the the detailed mechanics and operations but the easy explanations and pictures makes it comprehensible to a non-wrencher.
Just my 2¢- I give this thread
The 5 VAN THREAD AWARD
Thank you
Forum Newbie
hey my plastic screw broke as well... anyway i can buy a replacement somewhere?
If you're talking about the idle-up diaphragm, they have these on www.rockauto.com. Just drill into their database for van parts and in the "Fuel/Air" section you'll find it under "Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve". The expensive one actually is the air valve, but the cheap one is the "Idle-up diaphragm". Use the picture beside the part to help identify. Tim
BTW: The early idle-up diaphragms have an adjustment screw but the later ones do not (preset). I personally like the earlier ones. Tim
Anyone know why my ISC VSV would go on and off nonstop after my van dies? It does this for several minutes after running for a few minutes then it dies.
I replaced the switch with another and it continues to rapidly switch back and forth.
Is vacuum low enough at full throttle to raise fuel pressure???
Does anyone know an alternate part that can be used for the Air Control Valve (part number 17630-28010)?
looks like Toyota has it but its around 250-300 dollars
theres quite a few of these on eBay and they're only 45 bucks, but who knows if they'll fit or not.... (p/n 17630-16040)
not sure how part numbers work but they both have the 17630 part name code
Yes, every time you step on the gas the fuel pressure goes up ~ 5 PSI or so.
Not sure how compatible that eBay part would be, but these things hardly ever fail. Practically any van found in a salvage yard would likely have a good one. I'd recommend going HERE to see if that 86 van has got one. If so I'm guessing they'd let you have it for under $20. Tim
mines probably okay, what would be a symptom of a bad one?
i probably don't actually need to replace it, I'm just in "replace everything in sight mode" because of the PO's negligence and lowest bar possible approach to their work on the van ha ha
It mounts to the power steering pump and it opens/closes an internal valve when power steering pressure goes up/down. The valve blocks/allows vacuum flow to the idle-up diaphragm (same thing the AC idle-up VSV does). The increased RPM keeps the van from stalling due to momentary heavy loads imposed by the power steering pump.
For instance, say you're sitting in a parking lot with the van idling. For whatever reason you grab the steering wheel and start cranking it (without rolling forward). This creates a pressure spike and momentary heavy load from the PS pump. If the idle speed were not increased the engine would likely stumble or stall. The job of this part (in conjunction with others) is to prevent that from happening. Tim
PS: Read posts #10 & #19 (1st page of this thread)
Oh man whoops, i must have skimmed past those.
I'm learning a lot from your comment and those referenced posts (and this whole thread) about how all this stuff works. Very valuable knowledge.
I'm always amazed at your intimate knowledge of every aspect of these vans. Thanks Tim for all your contribution to the forum.
My pleasure . What good is knowledge if it cannot be shared?
OK so there are 3 VSV parts that I have to check. Right? The ones on post number 14. Whit an hmo meter, that I have never used but that I'm going to buy because I have a feeling it's a good tool that's gonna come in handy.
My roadster has those symptoms, first out of nowhere it started idling really high like at 1400rpm whit out me adjusting anything, then I had to adjust air screw for temp relief but it's all out of wack.
Symptoms 1=when cold most time I have to give it gas and will turn on, on fith or six try
2= I have to keep pedal down a little to stay keep 1200rpm to warm or else it would drop to rpm500
3=if I adjust screw to 1200 when cold to warm up. When does warm it stay around high rpm like 1400
Can someone tell me if I'm at least heading the right direction as far as the process of elimination to deal whit this problem? Than you
Dogger
An ohm meter will only tell you if the coil inside is good. I prefer to test by blowing through the vacuum port (with my mouth), then I'll apply 12 VDC to the terminals and blow again. If the VSV is good you will hear a click when voltage is applied, then you will notice the air flow changes. Some VSVs will allow/prevent air flow (depending on valve position), others will direct flow to a different port and/or vent it out. Bottom line? as long as flow changes with voltage it's good. Tim
Thank you Tim, I dint know how important VSV system is and the impact it can have on the performance of our vans. Definitely on my to do list.
Dogger