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Thread: Reworking 4wd radiator

  1. #81
    Van Enthusiast VanCo's Avatar
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    Re: Reworking 4wd radiator

    16 inch electric fan update. (I am highly critical)

    These vans do not have enough air flow at speed to properly support an electric fan. Sure, it can be done, but it isn't as good as the stock fan and shroud.

    I even added an auxiliary cooling heater core, oil cooler, and a massive under body air scoop. The air flow just isn't there to keep the fan off at highway speeds. For me, running a turbo and heavy loads, cooling is important.

    The decrease in aerodynamics caused by the necessary air scoop would most certainly offset any horsepower gain from going electric.

    With the stock fan I am able to drive 55-65 mph, 800 pounds inside, 1200 pound trailer up a 6% grade for 5 miles in 100 degree weather, and maintain 205 degrees at the hottest (that was all she had, all 7psi of boost and methanol).

    When I ran a lighter load (800 pounds inside, no trailer) same ambient temperature and stretch of road with the electric fan it overheated, and I had to go 15mph flashers on.

    In conclusion, sure electric fans can work, but if you want brute cooling power, go with a mechanical fan.

  2. #82
    Van Fan
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    Re: Reworking 4wd radiator

    Thanks for all the R&D Vanco.
    I have 600 miles on my set up, the flex-a-lite 365 scirocco fans. Driving 20 miles or less and no real load.
    The fans keep the engine slightly cooler than my stock van but they seem to be running full blast, almost all the time. I have been worried about what they will do under a real test.

    I don't think they turn off on typical hwy driving. Even if my radiator did get good air flow, the shroud and fans would block most air from passing through. I don't think the set up will work without the fans running. The fans do shut down during/after a down hill at least.

    I'm planning a Death Valley trip in November, I've done the same route twice with a stock van. My stock van heats up when: In 4wd, going slow up a long grade. I think the fans will help this but theres lots of other road conditions, mainly, highway mountain passes. I'll see how it holds up.

  3. #83
    Van Fan
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    Re: Reworking 4wd radiator

    I second the thanks for the R&D and reporting it back. I have been considering electric fans to help get a bit more power and economy from my diesel van, but I think I will take that off of my to do list for now.

    Vanco, you said that you were running an auxiliary cooling heater core, what kind of difference did this make in keeping your van cool? I'm thinking of modifying an old radiator that I have laying around to do this exact thing and I'm wondering if it would be worth the time and effort.

  4. #84
    Van Enthusiast VanCo's Avatar
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    Re: Reworking 4wd radiator

    All of my research was done at highway speeds. That said, the auxiliary cooling heater core mounted just behind the tiny grill provides about 5 degrees (fahrenheit) extra cooling, and the oil cooler provides about 5 degrees. The underbody scoop helped the most with 10 degrees extra cooling.

    My auxiliary temperature gauge probe is purposefully in the hottest port on the head (EGR VSV). Prior to all of the upgrades with the stock fan and shroud, aluminum radiator, no load, flat highway cruising my auxiliary temp gauge would show 212-215, and my factory gauge would be a hair under half. With the same fan and radiator setup, added heater core, oil cooler, and scoop, the temperature is now 191-195, and my factory gauge sits at one quarter.

    My auxillary temp gauge numbers will be different than others. There is up to a 20 degree difference in reading between the various ports on the head and filler neck. What's important is the temp change.
    Last edited by VanCo; 08-23-2018 at 10:58 AM.

  5. #85
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    Re: Reworking 4wd radiator

    So I ran across this CSF radiator, Model 987.

    Heres the dimensions, and says it fits Toy Vans.


    CSF RADIATOR, ALL METAL, 3-ROW -- 21.69 x 13.69 x 2.06 in. coresize, 13.56 x 2.19 in. tank inlet/outlet size, 1.38 in. top righthose fittings, 1.38 in. bottom left hose fittings, 8.88 in.transmission oil cooler size; Engineered to the highestspecifications; No need to move fittings, drill additional holes,or stretch hoses to fit properly because it will fit exactly thesame as with the original manufacturer's parts.
    Material:
    Metal core


    Is this the unicorn that may fit in the 4wd vans?

    Linkage:

    https://autoplicity.com/2914982-wagon-radiator


    Says it's 13.56" tall. Mounts appear correct for the 4wd also. Anyone seen this?

  6. #86
    Administrator llamavan's Avatar
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    Re: Reworking 4wd radiator

    CSF 987 is for the the 2WD 4Y / 2nd gen (86-89).

    Gwen
    1985 5-speed window cargo van set up for llama haulin'; 345K ("Trustyvan")
    1989 4WD 5-speed DLX; 410K and an odd sense of humor ("Skylervan")

  7. #87
    Van Enthusiast
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    Re: Reworking 4wd radiator

    Quote Originally Posted by llamavan View Post
    CSF 987 is for the the 2WD 4Y / 2nd gen (86-89).

    Gwen

    Wishful thinking I guess...

    Thanks Gwen.

  8. #88
    Van Fan
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    Re: Reworking 4wd radiator

    I had to pull my radiator out, to get an impact gun in there to remove the power steering pulley nut, and decided to take it to a custom radiator shop and ask about having it re-cored. I works ok, and I had it rodded-out a few years ago, but I was going to get the AC working soon and figured it would help to have the radiator working as efficiently as possible.

    Before I could even get to the counter and old-timer said "that's from a toyota van, 4wd" and told me that he knew why I was there, and that it wasn't going to help to re-core the radiator. He said that the 4wd van already had a 3-row core, and that it makes sense to re-core the 2wd van radiators, because they came with a 2-row. He said that a 4-row wasn't going to be worth the effort and would have limited effect, as someone in here already said, by the time the coolant goes over the 4th row the coolant is already hot and wouldn't cool any more, and that I'd be better off adding a thermostat controlled pusher fan on the front of the radiator. So, that's what I'm going to do. I'm sure some of this info is redundant, but I just thought I would share this opinion by a guy who's seen and done it all.

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