Originally Posted by coronan
Did you end up going with the universal fuel level sensor or has anyone found a oem one thats not discontinued?
Did you end up going with the universal fuel level sensor or has anyone found a oem one thats not discontinued?
Take a look at posts #56 & #57 of this thread regarding tank fit. Although different part numbers, I can't imagine senders being that different. I would recommend comparing and I'd be surprised if you couldn't get a 2wd one to work...........however, I've never tried so I don't know for sure. Tim
Take a look at Post #70 of this thread. If I had to guess, I'd think somebody put a universal sender in your tank. If that's the case, it has to do with the way the rheostat was wound (which end goes to ground and which end goes to gauge). Depending on the sending unit, it "might" be possible to reverse this, but that's a big "if". Tim
I've requested the ebay seller give me the diameter of the diameter of the circular mounting plate and if they have a unit for the hiace, a popular vehicle in Thailand.
eBay item number:
263368652342 Its a two wire unit.
If we can get a demo out of them would a group buy work?
The unit would include the thermistor. the units they are selling are. two wire units, no thermistor.
If the AM rheostat has 2 wires (both coming to the outside of the tank), then you would wire one wire to ground and the other to the harness. If it reads backwards, all you would need to do is reverse the wires.
Tim:
FYI
Now with my third time with rust in injector #3 I started the filter conversion. However I did find something that my interest you. I found this direct replacement from Purolator. It was relatively inexpensive. So I figured it was just another filter. So I contacted Purolator and they were very helpful and routed me to their engineering department. They confirmed that the mesh size of the filter material was in fact 10 microns. The down side of course is the task of replacing every 10K miles. I will ponder over this for a while.
Tim:
Here is where you can see it.
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-F53.../dp/B000C6MM0I
It is possible that your fuel line corrosion and contamination problem is past the fuel filter. You mentioned the #3 injector has repeatedly clogged.
Have you considered working back from #3 injector to the fuel filter?
Has the line between the filter and the fuel pipe been cleaned, along with the fuel pipe?
The filter media may be 10 microns, but IMO this type filter is more prone to assembly errors. The overall filtering ability is only as good as the biggest hole, and there's no way to inspect it without destruction. The other advantage to the canister type is there is an open area for sediments to "fall-out" while the fuel is flowing up hill to the pleated filter (higher up).
Yes, this is where I'm at in my thinking. I think fuel flowing through the lines is slowly "cleaning" them, unfortunately the garbage being released is what's causing the issue. I've put ~100k miles on this van since resurrecting it, so in my case these pipes are almost clean. If/when I find another one with a contaminated fuel system I'm going to look into cleaning the interior of these pipes before putting them back into service. Tim
Van Fan
Do you know what the injector screen trash was composed of? Is it possible that the rubber fuel lines and o rings for the injectors are not ethanol compatible?
Hi - looking for info on the location of the check valve described earlier in this thread - will I need to drop the whole tank? Or just loosen as shown earlier in the thread? Thanks all
It's on a small vent hose in the front/top of the tank as shown in post #15 (this thread). Tim
I currently have my tank out after cleaning it (1988 4x4 5spd)
Fuel gauge has always read just under 1/4 when full.
Upon removing sender, I found a previous owner installed a Universal SeaChoice sending unit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IZBLEO..._eRZqDbFG0HZ76
The sender is probably working, but since it's for a 35-240 ohms range gauge, it's basically useless.
Before I give up and put this thing back together, does anybody know of a universal sending unit that actually works with our vans with the correct ohms rating? Any sources for an old stock sender or am I SOL? I was hoping mine had a gummed up OEM sender that I could send away for refurb...
Here is an idea. Don't know if it will work but why not match the sender you have to a fuel gauge that will work with the sender? To maintain stock look maybe you can attach the stock fuel gauge face plate in the cluster to the internals of a different fuel gauge that is matched to the sender
Yeah, I have no problem flushing them out (once they're out). As you know, the problem is getting them out. No big deal 1 or 2 times, but gets old fast when you're doing it every 4 or 5 months
.
Hey Tim thanks for this write up on your solution. I've been having the exact same issue with my van. i need to go clean the injectors today but I'm stalling just doing research on the internet. i don't wanna go tear my engine apart again, haha. this will be the third time ive cleaned them in the last 2 months, UGH. Anyways, i cleaned the tank and replaced the main and sock filters about 2 months ago. that lasted about 2k miles until they clogged again. mine are clogging with this green sand looking stuff, which doesn't resemble rust. I think i am going to try your fuel filter solution, and maybe clean the tank one more time with something a little stronger than purple power degreaser. did that fuel filter come with all the brass fittings you needed? im not too good with hydraulic lines like this so this is gonna be a learning experience for me.
-Jams
No, you'll only get the canister and a filter. As for the fuel line and all the little brass parts, if you check THIS POST you will see I've embedded links to all of these parts. Just click on the blue text hidden within and it should take you to the parts you need. Tim
I created a blog post that describes how I adapted a fuel sending unit from a 1987 Toyota pickup to work in the tank of my '87 4x4 van. I tested it out and it works, but I have yet to put fuel in the tank because I'm working on the van and haven't reinstalled the tank. I'll update when that happens, but I thought others might appreciate this workaround.
here is the link:
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ement-1987-van
Like the post says, fuel gauge not working. After pulling apart the connection under the van I'm getting 8.4V from the yellow/red wire and the white/black wire coming from the gauge. Also getting OL across the terminals for the variable resistor. The low gas warning light works. Any help would be appreciated.
Ooph, gettin desperate. The actuator arms are totally worn on both gauge senders I have.
Is there a fix for those?
Otherwise,, someone mentioned this gauge unit above,, but no mention of success or otherwise.
Is this the correct Ohm Range? Worth a try @ ~$50 shipped?
0-90 ohms
With Low Fuel Warning Contact
https://www.jegs.com/i/VDO/918/226-164/10002/-1
Originally Posted by coronan
I would like to go this route.
VDO 226-164 - VDO Fuel Tank Sending Unitshttp://www.jegs.com/i/VDO/918/226-164/10002/-1
Have driven with non working gauge for years. Think I may have solved my problem. Does the fuel gauge show fuel level after starting the vehicle or simply when you turn the key to accessory.
Yahh, the gauge is active simply for turning the key on. No need to be running.
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