I went to Les Schwab for the wheel alignment and they said that the bolts were too rusted to loosen up and adjust the camber, caster and toe. He said either to get newer parts and replace or somehow get those rusted bolts loose? Any ideas on how get those bolts loose?
I've found from experience that not all Les Schwab Tire centers are the same. Some have awesome techs (oriented to heavy work) and some do not. Hard to know if you got a competent tech or somebody who wimps out on the older rustier stuff. Even if he's a competent tech, these things can get rusted to the point of being "non adjustable". Before a competent tech gives up he will usually use heat from a torch and put some major force on things. If things start looking like they might break, they will stop rather than break your vehicle.
I know from experience that these camber bolts can be a royal PITA. These steel bolts (about 4" long) go through steel tubes on the lower control arms. When water gets in they rust and eventually the tube and bolt become one part (it can no longer be turned for adjustment). When this happens, depending on the severity of the condition, the proper fix would be cut the bolt on each end with a torch, then replace the lower control arms and the camber bolts. Parts are still available and not terribly expensive, but the job is time consuming and is best completed in a shop setting.
If your alignment tech is seasoned and determined, there are other ways. Even if the camber bolts don't turn, it's unlikely the adjustment is that far off. If you take off the nuts, you can partially flatten the tabs that help hold the camber washers in place (both front and back) and adjust using a big pry bar and/or a BFH (Big F_ing Hammer). Of course the van needs to be on the alignment rack to know when to stop. Once the nuts are put back on and tight, depending on how far you moved it, the tabs can be "adjusted" again with a hammer and chisel. The problem is most of today's alignment techs are specialists and are more "precision oriented". When things get old and rusty, sometimes you need a guy who understands the struggle and is willing and able to be "forcefully persuasive". I can't blame any tech who would refuse to do that, I'm just saying if a tech is determined and persuasive enough there can be other ways.
Bottom line? Even if your guy didn't try very hard, if it's messed up enough for him to bail, if you are planning on keeping the van long-term, then it's just a good idea to replace these parts anyhow. Doing so can be challenging, but not impossible. If you don't have access to an acetylene torch, a big pipe wrench, and some of the bigger tools, it's probably best to let a shop do the work. Good luck. Tim
Yikes!!! He didn't say anything about heating it up but did say he used a long wrench and couldn't get it to budge without risking breakage. And if it broke then it would sit in the shop till they found a replacement part.
So it looks like its back to the TOYOTA Specialist shop!!
thank you Tim!!
Last edited by JDM VANMAN; 06-22-2014 at 09:40 PM.
If it were me, I'd probably at least free everything up before hand, so that all they need to do is adjust things into spec.
While you're in there freeing everything up, you'll find out if anything really needs to be replaced due to wear...
You can always start with soaking things down in ATF or quality penetrating oil, heat isn't always required, only very helpful.
One thing to check before having the alignment done is to check your front ride height.
Mine only measured 6.5in under the front X-member but after adjusting the torsion bars to factory ride height, I now have 8in there.
That much change in ride height will affect camber so best to make adjustments before having the alignment done.
BB
That's what I'd do too, but based on his prior posts I don't think Vanman has much access to the type tools or equipment for this sort of work.Originally Posted by Burntboot
Vanman, if you do have access to these things and you're willing to go to war with the years of rust, this can save you money. I never take other people's word for how bad or difficult things are. The guy at Les Schwab could have just been a pussy and was afraid to get his hands dirty. Of course he might be telling it like it is. No way to know without getting down & dirty with the old girl. Tim
The Les Schwab I went to was able to get some of the new tie rod parts from Toyota and get mine aligned. Then they didn't adjust the camber or caster and there was way too much toe, still. I took it to another Les Schwab that realigned it again and put new tires on it.
Yeah it's hard to say... I think he just didn't want to break it... And I really didn't want it broken cause then.... Well let's just say I woulda been unhappy... I'll take it to my Toyota techs that worked on it and have them work it out. When I took it in for all that service it took them 2 1/2 weeks cause they wanted to take their time and work out the rusty areas.
You guys are right, I don't have the time, tools or know how for any of that stuff. 24 hours in a day just isn't enough!!! Lol
Anyone know if the alignment specs are the same for the 2WD? Thanks
Sorry man I have no idea??
JDM
this is what I pulled from The service manual under service specifications starting on page A20. This can be download from this site. You can find it by googling “service manual Toyota a tech.com”
They are different. When you search for “service manual Toyotavantech.com”. Sorry about the previous post, autocorrect screwed it up. the link should be in the first result that comes up when using google chrome.
Here are the specs for the 1986 2WD according to the factory service manual:
Reply With Quote
