How to test igniter?

[scotty]

I may be getting ahead of myself. I haven't done any testing, just some guessing. I have a 1987 4x4 LE van and it will usually start when it's cold, and then after about 20 min of driving it starts to misfire and will eventually die. I thought it was the fuel pump, 'cause I had run it out of gas a few weeks ago, but a friend said check the igniter. (The fuel pump is pretty new, like 1k miles on it.) I think you need an oscilloscope to do this?

I have the factory repair manual and it has no info about performing this test. Also, This part is very expensive, like $400 from O'reileys. Is there any cheaper solution if this is the problem? Like Petronix with an older points distributor?

[timsrv]

Problem is more likely to be the coil & these are cheap and everybody has them. As for testing the igniter, according to the Toyota Factory Service Manual, I quote "Try another igniter". I make it a habit to snatch these from salvage yards when the opportunity presents itself. $5 - $10 isn't too unusual (depends on the check-out person). Most people wait until they fail then find a used one on eBay. I just did a search, but there's none currently listed there. Tim

[JPERL]

If you have a tachometer meaning an LE model knowing if the igniter is bad is an easy test. If the igniter is good the tachometer needle will slightly bounce while cranking the engine. If the tachometer needle does not move at all while cranking you have a bad igniter

This test is only applicable to 80's era Toyotas

[scotty]

I checked the tach and it does hop while cranking it over. It starts and only runs for 10 seconds now.

I checked the codes and I have 4 errors! it blinks 4 times, then 6, then 10 & 11.

This is what the manual says...


4 = temp sensor, and it read a little low at room temp which is 90 degrees today. It should be around 1.9 Ohms, and it was 1.6. Maybe it is running real lean when it warms up, so I went and got one today. (haven't put it in yet)

6 = RPM signal. No Ne signal to ECU while cranking, or no Ne value over 1500 RPM in spite of no Ne signal to ECU. Trouble area Distributor circuit, Distributor, Igniter, Starter signal circuit, ECU


10 = Starter signal - No STA signal to ECU when engine stopped and engine running over. Trouble area = Starter relay circuit, IG switch circuit (starter) IG switch, ECU

11=Switch signal - air conditioner switch ON, idle switch OFF or shift position in any position than park or neutral during diagnosis check.

Trouble areas AC switch, TPS sensor circuit, TPS, N start switch, ECU


Any help would be appreciated. It's a manual transmission. The starter is new,

[timsrv]

Having a stored code is reason for concern & usually means there is something wrong. Once stored, even if the original issue is rectified, codes will not go away unless the battery is disconnected or the EFI fuse is pulled for more than 15 seconds. Once a code is read & documented, it's a good idea to reset codes and then check them again later to verify they weren't left over from a previous episode.

I'd also like to mention that codes should be checked every so often regardless if the engine light is on or off. Letting things go wrong & accumulate is never good. Combinations of faults can complicate diagnosis and repair. I usually check codes every time I change oil. This may be a bit excessive, but if there's a problem I want to know now. Running the van with bad sensors can waste gas and lead to other more expensive problems (like a plugged up cat converter).

I'll attempt to help you based on my experience with the codes you are reading. Code #4 is pretty specific and almost always means a failed ECU temperature sensor. This sensor is very important to the correct running of the engine. Since the sensor is inexpensive and easy to replace I recommend replacing it ASAP any time a code 4 is read. Here is a picture that shows it's location:



The sensor is Napa part #TS5520 for around $15. If you're rolling in the bucks, then it's Toyota part #89422-12010 for around $80.


Code #6 is what happens when you get a failed coil or igniter. A bad pick-up coil in the distributor will also trigger this code. Since you get the "needle hop" I'm guessing it's a bad coil. Coil is Napa part #IC104 for around $40 or Toyota part #90919-02135 for around $100. An alternative would be to purchase a used distributor from eBay or a salvage yard & drop it in. Here's what's currently listed on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Desc=0&_sop=15

Code #10 I suspect this one will go away when code 6 is rectified.

Code #11 This is most likely a bad TPS. Beck Arnley #150-0503 for around $35 or Toyota part number 89452-14020 (they'll want around $95). If you replace this part, in order for it to do it's job it needs to be adjusted correctly. Since you'll need to pull the throttle body, it's a good time to clean this as well. Here's a thread that shows how to do this: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...-Throttle-Body

[scotty]

I cleared the codes after I changed the temp sensor, and was just left with the TPS error code.

I'll clean it out and replace the sensor. Thanks!