Behind the alternator, tucked in by the engine mount.
Behind the alternator, tucked in by the engine mount.
I used the search feature and found this:
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...Reservoir-Leak
No problem. I had an advantage since I posted it (I knew it was there)......I could also remember some key words (like "brass" and "extension"). Those two coupled with "block drain" narrowed it down to just 2 threads . Tim
Lots of great info here... I just wish I'd read it all first.
A month or so back, when making preparations to do a complete coolant line refresh, I went to RockAuto.com and punched in my search for the appropriate thermostat and gaskets. (1988 4WD Manual)
Of course, NOW I'm reading all of this about the OEM parts and regret my purchase.
Now I'm ready to replace the old TStat and upon opening the box and inspecting the new one, I find it doesn't have a jiggle Valve at all.
So.. do I take a chance? Or do I order it all again from Toyota?
here's the link to the particular TStat I ordered. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...279818&jsn=388
Opinions?
Anyone installed an aftermarket TStat manufactured without a jiggle valve to any success??
I know the original article (( https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...n-s-thermostat )) was from 9 years ago and wondered if anything would have changed since then.
IMO i'd only use OEM since it's still available and cheap and it's specifically built to get your vans cooling system running right. but since you already bought one you can try it and see how it runs. the install is a PITA but only takes an hour or two max - so you can always swap out later if the temp isn't running within the optimal zone. other consideration is if you want to risk your van running too hot or how far from civilization you typically drive. on second thought after typing all this out - i'd just buy the proper thermostat and be done with it
Just. Buy. OEM.
If you can't afford to eat the cost of that aftermarket t-stat and wait a for the proper OEM one to arrive, you're really really really not going to be able to handle the cost of a head job plus how long that puts your van out of commission.
Gwen
1985 5-speed window cargo van set up for llama haulin'; 345K ("Trustyvan")
1989 4WD 5-speed DLX; 410K and an odd sense of humor ("Skylervan")
Totally agree Gwen.
Small price to pay to put Crusty back on the stands. After just replacing all the coolant lines, water pump and coupling, valve cover and such. I値l happily get the OEM TStat to finish it up proper rather than take a chance.
Thanks for the guidance and patience. It痴 much appreciated.
A
The diagnostic proved true. (Upon cranking the van- coolant was immediately circulating) So it seems the TStat was stuck open. That痴 exactly what I found when I pulled out the old one.
The only bad thing is the lower right stud on the TStat housing unscrewed from the block and came out with the nut when removing it.
I didn稚 drain the block, so there痴 still some coolant inside dampening the threaded stud receiver. Because of not being able to clean out the coolant where the stud gets screwed back in, I didn稚 bother putting threadlock back on the stud. Instead I just screwed it back in to hold the housing and TStat in place overnight.
Now I知 not exactly sure what to do to lock in that stud when I finish up tomorrow.
At this point I wouldn't worry about that stud.
Nuts often weld themselves onto studs. the proper way to deal with it is to separate the 2 when they are out and reinstall the stud, then secure it with the nut.
Installing studs is usually done with a double nut and thread locker isn't usually required.
The way you have done it should work just fine, the only time one would have to worry is if the new gasket were significantly thinner than the old (if the stud shaft were to bottom out prior to the nut flange making contact)
Best practices would say do it right, but as you've already "got 'er done" just make a mental note for next time.
And if I read that wrong and it isn't fully assembled yet, then extract the frozen nut, clean up threads (block and stud) and reinstall stud (double nutted) and torque to spec, then remove the double nuts and proceed as normal.
Just a little FYI. Any time I remove a nut from a bolt or stud I put a little bit of anti seize compound on the threads to help in the removal of the nut down the road. Nothing worse then a nut that gets frozen. If it gets stuck on a bolt and you break the bolt it can be replaced but break a stud SOB. Also if you wanted to use loctite to reinstall that stud just get a can of brake cleaner and spray it on the inside threads. It will clean the slime of the A/Freeze off and it dries super fast leaving a clean and dry surface for the loctite to work like it should.
FWIW, brother-in-law (professional mechanic) and I replaced my '88 2WD 5spd's thermostat several weeks ago. The next day I drove her close to 200 miles in Florida heat without any problems whatsoever. New thermostat is OEM; I always buy Toyota when it's available.
Anybody ever notice that the Tstat housing has a slight turn to it?Here is a pic of the turn.
Service manual says nothing as to which way it goes in.
Does it matter?
MT
That's so it won't interfere with the alternator adjustment bracket. If you try to install it with the alternator already installed, it will be obvious which way it needs to be. Tim
Roger that. It was on backward then. OMG, it is amazing this little 4Y ran as good as it did with wrong torque values on the head and manifold.
Thanks, just waiting for the next shoe to drop
MT
So, my van overheated. Blew the radiator hose off near where the lower radiator hose goes into the radiator. Going through the checks to see if it is something besides the headgasket. New thermostat, new water pump, new fan clutch, new radiator cap within the last two years. Anyways, I pulled off the thermostat and tested it and it does pop open. I'm going to put it back in place but I have a question. I'm wondering if you have to use a gasket for the thermostat and for the thermostat housing. I did both before but I don't see it in the instructions.
Do I need to use this (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...79728&jsn=1032) water outlet gasket along with the thermostat seal?
If the water outlet gasket is needed as well, I'd suggest adding it to the instructions.
Thanks!
No need to use a gasket other than the rubber gasket on the t-stat itself, and Toyota does not call out for another one in the EPC, either. The number given on Rock Auto (1634171010) is the number for the "water inlet" (t-stat housing) itself (!).
Gwen
1985 5-speed window cargo van set up for llama haulin'; 345K ("Trustyvan")
1989 4WD 5-speed DLX; 410K and an odd sense of humor ("Skylervan")
Thanks Gwen, I wonder if that could cause an overheating issue if I used both and the paper one deteriorated (the housing one). There wasn稚 really a leak though. Hmm, ok good to know. Thanks for the info. Will install with just the OEM gasket for the thermostat.