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Thread: The hose of death thread

  1. #21
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    Re: Hose of Death change

    Ok I did it! Let say first that I am a mediocre wrencher so if I can do it, anybody can.
    Things I learned while doing this is to really pay attention to the left side cut. That brake line is close and I just eye balled it from Tim's pics and it was real close to my cut! Also, after you make the cut, tape the edges with heavy tape, I sliced my finger wide open pulling the hose off! I used 10 mil electrical tape after that and was fine. The failure point on my HOD was just above the lower nipple, the hose expanded over time and began rubbing on the lip of the valve cover, but the failure looks like it began from the inside, all the rubber was crumbling on the inside wall. I used a grinder with a metal blade. It did well but the only draw back was that it turned the sound deadening material to liquid tar so remove that first.

    ready for surgery

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    Attachment 857
    Last edited by Cirrus; 02-28-2013 at 10:14 PM.

  2. #22
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    Re: Hose of Death change

    Opened up for bypass.
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    Hose starts to crumble as I try to remove it (sorry they are sideways... sometimes this site does that to my pics)



    Hose removed, tape around hole



    Hose replaced (Gates 5/16 like Tim used)




    My gnarly patch job




    All done and ready to be put back together! (took 4hrs, would be a lot less if done by someone who knows what they are doing!)


    Attached Images Attached Images      
    Last edited by Cirrus; 02-28-2013 at 11:20 PM.

  3. #23
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    Re: Hose of Death change

    I just want to say thanks again to Tim..... I would not have tried this if he had not linked his post with detailed instructions for me. This site is better than taking it to a mechanic!





    Up next.....
    Repack the front wheel bearings and refurb/replace the front rotors.

  4. #24
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    I just replaced the hose of death... Can anyone explain to me what part of the cooling system the HofD is responsible for? I noted its path of travel obviously starts in the rear of the engine block and makes its way through a metal line which then converges into a bypass hose that travels through the TB, then towards the underneath of the upper intake manifold, through a sensor, then it drops into a larger hose which travels near the radiator.

    Anyway most of the rubber hoses in this circuit had gunk in them.... I looked at the manual and it is not under cooling. I will do a coolant flush and I would like to know if this will clean it up, or if I should do something further. Thanks

  5. #25
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    As you stated the hose of death taps coolant off the bypass plate on the back of the head. It then goes to the throttle body via a metal tube & another rubber hose at the throttle body. It's purpose at the throttle body is to warm it & prevent icing during freezing conditions. Next it passes to the air valve (mounted to the underside of the top half of the intake manifold). The air valve's function is to increase idle speed when the engine is cold. It uses coolant temp to activate/deactivate. Next it's routed to the heater hose return line (part of the metal tube that travels the length of the block on the driver's side). There is an 8mm nipple welded to that tube near the back of the engine & this is where it ends up.

    These little tubes can get crusty inside. Some get so bad they become completely blocked. The last engine I reworked was so bad I couldn't re-use the throttle body (nipples were like Swiss cheese). I was able to re-use the air valve, but I had to clean it using drill bits & compressed air. If you live in a place that's warm year round you don't need this stuff. You could bypass it or simply plug it off at each end. Tim

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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Thanks Tim... Where I live freezing weather is no concern.

  7. #27
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    This is the second time I have replaced the "hose of death" since I bought my 1984 Toyota Van new.
    I was going to cut an access hole as described above until I remembered that I had placed the two clamps in a position so that I could reach
    them from underneath the vehicle with a long 1/4 inch extension. They came right off.

    The hose was hardened, so it broke apart pretty easily thus being pretty easy to remove. I had removed the EGR valve in order to get better access
    from the driver's side.

    I thought about getting the Gates hose that Tim mentioned above, but instead decided to get Silicone Heater Hose which has
    a temperature range of -65 F to 350 F. I bought VMS 5/16 inch silicone heater hose. Part Number VMSHSE1P-031-BLK
    Nice and pliable and easy to clamp.
    http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ld-by-the-Foot

    I attached the hose with the clamp on it from the driver's side first, rotated the clamp so I could reach it from underneath. Then I
    tightened it on that side with the 1/4 inch extension and socket from underneath. I then went over to the passenger side and bent the hose
    with the clamp on it so that I could slip it over the passenger side nipple behind the valve cover and then rotated the clamp so that I could tighten it from underneath and it was done.

    John

  8. #28
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Quote Originally Posted by timsrv View Post
    Fully assembled view from under van:



    Gates hose is available by the foot at most auto parts stores. My local Napa usually carries it, but was out, so I went to Carquest and got some there.


    Hello All,

    This morning as I was parking my van at work I could smell evaporating coolant. I looked under the van and it was spraying coolant all over the parking lot..


    A first I thought the head gasket blew, but on closer inspection it looked like it was spraying out of the side of a hose. (Please see the number marked 1 on image. Hope you don't mind me using that image). I think the metal pipe next to it melted through the coolant hose.

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    What size hose should I use to replace it? Also I notice that clamps are used, should I do this as well?


    Also, while under there I notice the bolt that attaches to the intake manifold missing (2).

  9. #29
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Well this is not specifically the hose of death, but related i guess.

    It was as I suspected. The hose was melted by the EGR metal tube. Melted right through it. I was able to pick up some 5/8 heater hose rated for +350' F / 60 PSI and two new clamps at NAPA. Removed and installed all during lunch hour.

    Hopefully that solves the problem.
    Last edited by Ian R.; 06-15-2015 at 03:18 PM.

  10. #30
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    That should solve it. These hoses get fragile when they get old. If the EGR is getting hotter than it should, that's a sign of a failing cat converter or the timing being off. It could also be a problem with your electronic advance............or could simply be a poorly routed hose. Just thought I'd throw some other possibilities out there as food for thought. Tim

  11. #31
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Thanks Tim!

    -I have got to hand it to you. You are always one step ahead of things. Getting the timing checked is on the list. My initial thought was, it was to close to the EGR. But as I replacing the hose, I started thinking. Why? Is the EGR suppose to be running that hot?

    Thank you again for your help and TV wisdom!

    -Ian

  12. #32
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Must just be that time of year lol, im about to cut an access panel myself. I am going to lay some sheets of leather i have all around the hump, and use my air cutoff tool to cut the size hole i need. I was looking at nice hole saws but 80 bucks for the 8 inch is just not happening.

  13. #33
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Okay, so you think that's the end of the tough little hoses to change? well guess what? There's another hose of death










    After a blown radiator hose on my 86 2wd auto Van, I decided to change all the hoses.
    The pic of the underside of the top half of the intake manifold where a coolant hose connects to the metal line. The toyota parts diagram shows another hose coming off the other end of that metal line (can not see it in your pic). See 16268A below.



    I believe it attaches to the auxiliary air valve but I'm not sure. Shouldn't this hose be replaced as well? You didn't mention that hose at all. Toyota gives part number 99556-10110 for both hoses that go to that metal line (part number given for reference). They said the Van requires both. The parts guy asked the tech but he said only that he thinks the second line is under the manifold but couldn't be sure exactly. Did they tell me wrong, is the diagram they gave me wrong, or is there another hose under the intake manifold that you didn't show? If so how do I replace that one?
    Please help. Thanks

  14. #34
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Yes, that would suck to replace that hose. I wouldn't replace it though unless it was leaking or the intake needed to be removed for another reason. I've been aware of this one and have replaced it on every van I've had the pleasure of splitting the manifold on. I haven't mentioned it before because strangely it seems to hold up very well. I've never had this one blow (knock on wood). Perhaps it's due to the shielding offered by the intake manifold? Regardless, unless you remove the upper manifold, there is no easy way to replace this hose.

    Based on location I would consider this to be the toughest hose of all (although the other one gets all the fame). Until I have one break I'm not going to worry too much about it. Perhaps when the vans get 40 years old this will become an issue, but it's hard to imagine a van going that long without needing to pull the intake for something else. Tim


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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Thanks for the info, and really thanks for the super fast response. I will skip that one for now and not worry about it. If I do get a leak in the next 20 years that will be the place for me to look as I've replaced every other hose. All the other hoses were original 30 year old equipment.

  16. #36
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    I bought my 87 van, it was running fine - i took it to a guy who has worked on toyota vans previously - he looked it over and was very impressed with the state of things, however the coolant was like mud - brown sludge style. so he suggested draining it and starting a process of flushing it with distilled water of the period of a few months.

    its winter and cold here now, so I'm waiting on that process - drained the system, and refilled it with coolant - then the leak began. i took it back to him, he replaced the lower radiator hose - but did not notice a leak. once i started driving it again the leak began again - i suppose this suggests the leak is coming from the "hot side" as i don't believe he drove it very far after replacing the hose.. meanwhile I've just been keeping it topped off everytime i drive it.

    I'm taking it back to him in the next couple of days to potentially have the leak pinpointed and repaired - but while he is doing that, he suggested changing some other things - which i support. though he mentions in his email after listing prices for parts - that after he did the same kind of thing to a previous van, it wouldn't start. why is that? is there a way to avoid this possibility?

    here is his email,

    "Let me list the parts and you can see if this is more than what's acceptable...
    after-market Radiator (about $185)
    two radiator bottom clamps ($30)
    Water-pump and gasket (about $30)
    upper radiator hose (about $35)
    radiator cleaner (about $7)
    miscellaneous other hoses and distilled water (about $50)

    That's around $350, with a possibility of maybe going to $400. You can come over and help with all the work. Would make progress faster.

    P.S. After I completed the cooling system work on the blue van and put everything back together, it would not start, no matter what i tried. Then i had to take the fuel-intake apart and put new injectors in (cost over 700 when it was all done). So i'm hesitant to even start on this, if i run into problems, you're going to be stuck with the bills."


    let me know what you think, and thank you so much for any advice you may have to give - and also the time for reading this!


    EDIT: I assume the leak is the hose of death.. Also it just dawned on me that the brown sludge is probably result of "stop leak" fluid - this is just an assumption of mine as the PO did not alert me to the use of anything like that
    Last edited by Christian; 03-04-2016 at 12:44 PM.

  17. #37
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Your cooling system is contaminated. This is completely avoidable and is most likely the result of neglect and/or ignorance of a PO. Even if it's just a stop leak product, this is still considered contamination (although not as bad as other types).

    Most glycol based antifreezes (recommended), if mixed properly will last many years and beyond 50k miles. Automotive antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors and additives to keep the the moving parts lubricated. There are however many different types of antifreeze and most should never be mixed. When different types are mixed it can cause these additives to drop out of suspension and can even make the antifreeze corrosive (like acid) to your engine. Running straight water or improper ratios can cause the same thing. Even if the correct antifreeze is left in the engine too long it can eventually become like an acid and damage your engine. For those who want to run the same antifreeze as long as possible, they should test the PH level at least once a year and replace based on test results. FYI, if rust is part of the contamination, the rust is actually microscopic particles that were once metal from your engine.

    Not sure what has caused your problem, but if it's rust in there, it's never good. There are things you can do to improve the situation (like flushing), but depending on how bad it is, the only way to get it completely clean might be to disassemble and manually clean like I did here in this thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...ngine-Overhaul

    FYI, I thoroughly flushed that engine for over an hr and even used a flushing product BEFORE disassembling (turned my entire driveway rusty) and I still found this when I popped out the freeze plug:


    In my experience, I've had the rusty contamination on other engines. Although I would flush and replace antifreeze periodically. My new antifreeze would always get brown again each time, but at least it helped keep it from getting worse. Good luck, I hope you're able to get it cleaned up. Tim

  18. #38
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Do I have these coolant and air flow directions right?

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  19. #39
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    Re: The hose of death thread

    Looks correct to me.

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    Re: The hose of death thread

    So hot coolant (which may contain bubbles / steam) from the Head / HOD has to flow downhill and then into the block to get reheated, AND NOT GIVEN A CHANCE TO COOL???!!!



    In 30 years am I the first one to realize this?

    The tube that goes to the block runs up to the front near the water pump???
    If that is true it will cause the pump to cavitate air???

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