hello all, introduce my van

[adamh]

this is my first van onwership . i've had toyota's for long enough, all of that time of spent working on them

well, dont spit at me.. i have a 90/91 CR30 bodied 4wd 2ct , its not the exact van i wanted, i wanted a retro square 'van' but, they are very rare , not more than 80 on this island, and usually can see daylight through the arches, reluctantly i brought a newer one, it still had a charm about it and had all the goodies i want, 4wd bieng the main one, part camper conversion, 2.0 turbo diesel i can live with that, toyota bieng the last tick.

i thought about other vans but i know a little about toyotas so it swayed me to stay the brand whore.
I brought it as non running with bubbling in the coolant cap. not really scared with engine faults, i'm more interested to rip it apart and see whats wrong . i hope ive posted in the right section, i dont see a cr30 type section.

here's some shots of the new family member. The head was fairly screwed, i've been cutting my knuckles for about 5 months on and off repairing it so far. it was clogged with sludge / oil around all the pipes, 3 of the valve stems well coked up 2 cracked ports on 2 different cylinders.





i also found a warped manifold, very warped, about 0.125” on length / x plane, and about 0.050” in the width / Y.
The last owner has it taken to a repair shop for a leaking manifold. Less than 3000km later the cylinder head cracked in 2 position. The repair shop had tried torquing up the exh manifold to flatten it, and stripped the threads from the head. So they repaired the threads with v coils, and just torqu’ed it up again = losers. When i removed it it was plain to see that it contributed to the cracked cylinder head.



i swapped out the old hardware into a new cylinder head .




Put a new core in the turbo. Turbo play was on limit, just , but i thought i would swap in a new one while i had the head off.



Ct12



Redressed the bent flange to how it should have been, local shop guy just used a large flat linishing belt. It was flat i checked with a straight edge




Back in the van




Decided to cut out this idle viscous fan pulley since the last owner had an electric fan put direct onto the rad.





new belts are 35.433" long
gates 6466MC



found some play in the oil pump was about 0.018" if you rock it back forward in a circular motion etc.
i stripped it off as a precaution to find out the state of the internals, man what a job that is ! you have to remove the torsion bar and drop the engine 2 inches to remove the sump pan, then the #2 baffle plate, theen you can remove the sump pan









found a little wear in the rotor shaft



and not so much in the housing bore of the pump, still, together they allowed 0.018" of rock, a little much, although no problem on oil pressure to report.



i rebuilt the pump with a new rotor and shaft and put a little grease on the shaft refited the pump repaired / patched up the sump pan because it was rotten in a few spots. started the engine, within 45 seconds idleing the engine came to a sudden stop. oh 5hit! the oil pump seized up. i think greasing the shaft was a bad idea, after removing the oil pump the shaft was seized solid, probably didnt allow the oil to flow to the shaft properly.

replaced with new pump and refitted, man, i wouldnt wish that job twice on anyone.
started again, this time with no pregrease of the pump. no issues , pump still running.

sump is here



shows rotor shaft play on new pump, about 0,010"



van as it stands now, added OP and boost gauge. boost gauge is working, i have issues with the OP because it messes with the original sender , i have them both on the same branch of air fittings tucked under the alternator, another pain of a job, still, you all know what a pain these vans are to work on so i feel im in good company









loads of room without seats



room for a 10"L x8"W x 14" deep intercooler in here is good news since the stock cooling gives head problems



still giving me problems but i am working through it



time for a barby







current issues are electrical , i have a loose connection somewhere. van is stuttering on acceleration mechanically. losing faith quick now. i have done so far, new cambelt & idler bearings, new cylinder head, head bolts, head gasket, oil pump, injectors checked, manifold remachined, turbo re-cored, new drilled 2 x 1/8" holes thermostat, big ends checked, sump pan repaired, new fluids of course!. still not running right. back to the garage for more punishme

[timsrv]

I have no experience with diesels, but I know about the general challenges of working on these. Impressive what you've done so far. Looks like you got through all the expensive and most difficult things. Now it's just a little fine tuning & finish work. It's clear you have motivation and drive, so I'm sure you'll get there. Enjoy your van and thanks for posting . Tim

[adamh]

took it out for a little run . starts o.k, idle's very joggy almost stalling until its warmed up at which point its smooth idling. i did about 5 miles. its pushing 6 pounds boost according to the gauge, could be +/-1 either way i think. i should be seeing a little more i think maybe upto 7-8psi, anyone have any experience here of normal boost level?
i am going to check the joins are tight, check manifold /turbo studs are tight and i have no gas leaks.

[timsrv]

The diesel vans were excluded from the US market. Most of us on this forum are in the USA, so the majority here won't be of any help. We do however have a few members from other markets. Hopefully one or more will be able to help (but I wouldn't hold my breath). You might try looking for a forum where these things are popular. Over the years I've stumbled on one or two (but don't remember where). I think there's a good one based in the UK.........probably Japan too (but you'd need to know Japanese). Do a Google search with key words like "toyota 2ct forum" Good luck. Tim

[JDM VANMAN]

Nice detailed work and documentation like Tim said there are a lot of members in the UK and Australia as well but I haven't visited the sites in a while.

[adamh]

this a good forum, its alive, chasis and body is the same, engines different , no matter to me. there is one other site i know , i may use it later.

when i took it out the other day, heard a few squeaks which sounded like manifold leaks,

here's a soundbyte of a loose manifold on a turbo diesel:

http://www.mediafire.com/listen/f4r0...e+squeal+3.mp3

that was earlier in my project, that time has long passed. i suspected all kind of things like belts and pump/pulley shafts. i had the whole front of the engine off. i found the leaky manifold last, as luck would have it i have refitted a freshly skimmed manifold and new oem gaskets over the december period.

some pictures when i was re-fitting the exhaust manifold , imagining the left handers are a mirror image of the RH drive vehicles, that little hatch for working down, man, what a pain. still, better than stripping down the centre console and removing the drivers seat pan everytime.

if your going to remove your exhaust manifold, have it skimmed and use new studs everytime, its relatively low money considering the amount of pain you go through to remove/refit.



it IS possible to remove the exh manifold through the hole if you have some good socket bars, i use a craftsmen 3/8 flex head teardrop ratchet, i also got a 1/2" one, they have to be the best two tools in my box.



I also use one of these which is a fantastic invention which i only just remembered i had in my box when i was struggling with getting a long torque wrench down the hatch





xmas has passed, time to get out and do something , i over tightened an inlet manifold bolt! , ping, whoops. that killed off yesterday for me, i was only trying to eliminate what i thought was a manifold squeak .

anyway, proceeded to remove the cam belt, diesel pump, inlet manifold, to get to the sheared bolt.
its not possible to remove the inlet manifold without removing the diesel pump, what a day!, used a short power drill / screwdriver to get the offending bolt out, handy having small drill. tapped it out the next metric size up, that must hack you guys off using metric fittings? i have both tool kits.

got it back together today, its running again on the driveway.

One more job to do before some more road testing, the last owner rigged up an electrical PCB which controlled the radiator fan on/off temps by using a thermocouple plunged into the lower water outlet in the block (just after the thermostat) , well it snapped off today its so small and delicate . i do not like the PCB box of tricks controlling the fans, so i'm hunting a safer solution. i think i will use a regular fan switch in a t-piece to govern the fans by relays. theres two rads in this van for some weird reason, its deeper than your average motor what with 4wd and an auto transmission thats for sure.

are you using viscous fans or electric in the gasoline models? i got two electric fans and two rads, is that common?

[djshimon]

I would love a diesel 4wd van, and I'm pretty sure we can more easily import 1990 Diesel Vans from Canada in 2015-because of the 25 year import rules. Now I just need to find the money for one.
Anyways, our vans have two radiators if they have A/C. The engine radiator fan has a belt driven viscous(pretty sure it's name) clutch and the A/C fan is electric. Many people have done away from the belt driven engine fan for dual-electric fans. Here's a fan thermostat thread:
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...=electric+fans
And here's a build thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...=electric+fans
That's a sweet Van you have!

[timsrv]

adamh, to me that squeak/rattle sounds more like a heat shield on the manifold. Could also be a rattle between the pipe and the bell housing bracket.

DJ, Our vans only have one radiator. The thing under the front with fans is the AC condenser. Technically I guess you could call it a radiator (it does radiate heat), but it's got Freon inside (not coolant). From what I understand, some of the diesel vans (foreign markets) have a 2nd radiator in this location, but our gasoline powered vans have an AC condenser here. Tim

[djshimon]

Oh whoops. So much for my misinformation- I still want a diesel van though Tim.
So where is his a/c condenser or does he not have A/C?

[timsrv]

Since I've never seen one in person I don't know for sure. Back before TVP deleted their photo gallery there were several pics of this there. I seem to recall it's mounted sideways right in front of the rack. I also seem to recall it looked like a fricking mess up there (hoses, wires, fans, etc all crammed into a tight location). I think the AC condenser was up there too, but don't remember the exact lay-out. Tim

[adamh]

I would love a diesel 4wd van, and I'm pretty sure we can more easily import 1990 Diesel Vans from Canada in 2015-because of the 25 year import rules. Now I just need to find the money for one.
Anyways, our vans have two radiators if they have A/C. The engine radiator fan has a belt driven viscous(pretty sure it's name) clutch and the A/C fan is electric. Many people have done away from the belt driven engine fan for dual-electric fans. Here's a fan thermostat thread:
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...=electric+fans
And here's a build thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...=electric+fans
That's a sweet Van you have!

thanks for that thread information its what I was looking for . it Had AC which was decommissioned (butcher'd) so I took out the compressor and idler pulley and shelved it. I need to confirm exactly what rads I have, although it is the main one I need the control for.
you have not long to wait for 2015, 2ct is the first I stumbled across, it had a ok body, i was searching for a year to get a fair condition shell

[adamh]

adamh, to me that squeak/rattle sounds more like a heat shield on the manifold. Could also be a rattle between the pipe and the bell housing bracket.

DJ, Our vans only have one radiator. The thing under the front with fans is the AC condenser. Technically I guess you could call it a radiator (it does radiate heat), but it's got Freon inside (not coolant). From what I understand, some of the diesel vans (foreign markets) have a 2nd radiator in this location, but our gasoline powered vans have an AC condenser here. Tim

do you mean the exhaust pipe bracket and bell housing?

[timsrv]

do you mean the exhaust pipe bracket and bell housing?

Yes, sometimes the clamp fits loosely and it rattles on the down pipe. Your video sounded more like a heat shield though. Sometimes they crack, get loose, and/or hit on something else. The audible vibrations start when the engine RPM's match the vibration frequency of the shroud. The inside of Cat converters and mufflers can do this too, but usually they are far enough away from the engine bay to easily identify. Tim

BTW: Here's a thread that talks about the factory clutch fans in our USA market vans: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...g-(fan-clutch)

[adamh]

here is a look at the current radiator fan setup





this is where the custom sensor was located to, its the hot flow from the block to the rad, the 180deg thermostat is located sandwiched between the block and the cast aluminum pipe here.



a view of the room down there



I am going to update some things here. i will put a bike fan near the turbo area (other side to this image). the fan relay will be governed by one of these $15 thermistor kits which switches has its own 10a relay , you can wire no/nc output choice. i used one before on an engine bay fan and just pushed the thermistor out on fly leads to top of bay, it works o.k , quick response on = quick reponse off, needs an off delay but will do for an aux fan, its just to shift the static air by exh manifold turbo.



need to have a look at this possible second radiator before i do anything with the first (was thinking of dual fan dual sensor ), it confuses the issue of cooling, i have no idea yet how its plumbed. will update later.

[timsrv]

Since this is a foreign animal to me, I can't say for sure, but seems like there should be a shroud for that electric fan. Cooling fans only work at full efficiency when they move air through the entire radiator (and only the radiator). The idea of the shroud is to maximize air flow through the area where it's needed. Without one, a fan mounted like that will only be about 50% efficient. Tim

[adamh]

Since this is a foreign animal to me, I can't say for sure, but seems like there should be a shroud for that electric fan. Cooling fans only work at full efficiency when they move air through the entire radiator (and only the radiator). The idea of the shroud is to maximize air flow through the area where it's needed. Without one, a fan mounted like that will only be about 50% efficient. Tim

i thought that also. two smaller 9" fans would cover more sq area even without a shroud. the fan is 11, the rad area is approx 20" x 12". / 515 x 310mm. is it the same as gasoline size?.

[timsrv]

Yes. Not sure how interchangeable they would be, but that's really close to the size of the gasoline van's radiator core (of course we only have 1 radiator). We can just barely fit 2 10" fans on ours. Tim

[adamh]

thanks for the input.

i had a look at your threads and radiator shroud, excellent job. i thought about stuff.
im going with two sensors, it'l be experimentation to find the sweet spots during the summer at the worst /hottest time.

one just after the rad exit. one just after the block (unconfirmed ! but best i can think of) . I will run a new temp gauge with sender from the head, the stock gauge is trash with un numbered divisions . I guess i'm looking at between 180-203? deg optimal temperature of the head.

why am i doing all this?
the original cylinder head cracked across two combustion chamber ports, the banana manifold and overtorquing studs did not help stress. does not look like this fan was doing much , also the temp sender which turn on the rad fan was 2 feet away from the rad on the cylinder block, so.. if the rad had finished pumping through a load of hot, possibly the colder coolant then came through the block?, shut off the stat, sender next to stat went cold, fans didnt come on . as far i understand the cooling system in the previous set up was not really efficient. i really dont want to swap out another cylinder head

all of these factors Must lead to the two cracks, apart from the obvious, thinest part cracks first! . its a common fault in the 2ct/3ct i found a history of since buying it.

i am going to change it to 2 x 9" 755cfm 7.5A spal suckers + quick sketched tin shroud to mount them.
its the biggest i can fit diameter wise , i can always run them slower. i took the idea from your shroud , made it fit with my chosen fans and rad for this van.



i'll have it cut, folded and mig'd. wish i could do that myself

[timsrv]

Nice. I look forward to seeing pics of the finished product. It's such a challenge to get enough air up into these areas (everything crammed in on top of everything else). I think you're on the right path. Tim

[adamh]

i got the shroud made. i took some pics for reference. this rad is original i guess, from an imported
90/91 cr30 bodied 2.0td. unsure what else it fits. approx 20x12 " core, give or take quarter of an inch

there are some tags at the bottom one either side these are great for holding , my sheet shroud slots nicely in and is supported with them.





the clearence from the front diff is about 0.125" with a thickness of shroud 1.050"
it fit without removing anything





the original tags on top of the rad for original viscous shroud (i think because i never saw it!) just have to bend up a touch to clear the captive nuts and it pops right in. i will use some kind of latch in these two position to clamp the shroud to rad.



just need to rust proof it with some paint and put some push on foam lip seal around the edge it be ready to bolt on the fans.