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Thread: clutch master and slave cylinders

  1. #21
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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    Quote Originally Posted by gushaman View Post
    Ok, my van has been down for 2 weeks now. I replaced the clutch master cylinder (a huge pita to remove the dash and everything for access btw) if anyone wants details of dash removal i can reply with that or make another thread.
    What all do you have to remove to gain access to the clutch master cylinder? Why would the whole dash come off to access the part that's just below and to the left of the steering wheel?

  2. #22
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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    Quote Originally Posted by AnotherUser View Post
    What all do you have to remove to gain access to the clutch master cylinder? Why would the whole dash come off to access the part that's just below and to the left of the steering wheel?



    You'll know why when you do it man... it's a tight spot. At the bare minimum you will have t take out the gauge cluster and the surround to access it more easily. Theres air ducting to remove also... it's just plain easier to remove the whole dash, unless you curse like a sailor (you will anyways with the dash off too)


    Best video I have seen is Amorell's youtube vid.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYmHK_KdiF8

  3. #23
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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    Quote Originally Posted by Flecker View Post


    You'll know why when you do it man... it's a tight spot. At the bare minimum you will have t take out the gauge cluster and the surround to access it more easily. Theres air ducting to remove also... it's just plain easier to remove the whole dash, unless you curse like a sailor (you will anyways with the dash off too)
    Were you able to do it by just removing the gauge cluster, or did you end up having to remove the entire dash like in the video?

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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    Quote Originally Posted by AnotherUser View Post
    Were you able to do it by just removing the gauge cluster, or did you end up having to remove the entire dash like in the video?
    I was going through the whole thing after it sat for a coupl years and pulled it in the garage. I already had the entire dash ripped apart and it made it far easier, I know that much. Looking at where it sits, theres literally stuff over the top of it that would make it really tough to get at otherwise.

    Pic for reference.

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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    It's been forever since I was in there, but I did not pull the entire dash.
    Cluster for sure, can't remember if the side panel at the filler neck comes off then or not, but you'll see once you dive in.
    Its mostly about taking your time and don't get frustrated,
    (oh and have a bucket ready, for the inevitable spills.)

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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    Quote Originally Posted by Burntboot View Post
    don't get frustrated


  7. #27
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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    Has anyone tried a reverse bleed using an oil can pump to force air up and out?

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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    I cannot imagine why anyone would want to do such a thing, perhaps I am missing something???

  9. #29
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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    ive done it before on motos with difficult to bleed brake systems..where air pockets could develop and you could run a whole quart of brake fluid thru a system and not get it to bleed..you do run the risk of pushing contaminants up into the master and smaller orifices..the vans clutch system has never been hard to bleed so i wouldnt see the need..

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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    i have a slow leak in my hydraulic brake and/or clutch system. is does not (yet) affect braking or gear selecting/changing. is there any chance that it's just the plastic reservoir leaking? the leak is indicated by just a small amount of fluid running down onto the floor mat on the clutch pedal side. when the fluid reservoir runs down to just above minimum, the brake warning light comes on when going around corners or when accelerating/braking and i am also notice that my cruise control only works intermittently (mostly not). when i top up the reservoir, the issue resolves (except the leaking on the floor mat. upon reviewing threads here on TVT, i realize that it will require the removal of the entire dashboard - especially if i want to lubricate the heat/ventilation control cable "spyder" (which i need to do). if i'm going in there, should i just figure on replacing both the brake and clutch master cylinders (the van has 277k miles on it)? how far in will i have to go to positively visually identify which master cylinder is leaking? any/all responses are appreciated.

  11. #31
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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    you dont have to remove the 'whole' dash, just the cluster hood and instrument cluster itself..pretty easy actually once youve done it..theres multiple threads on this i believe. id probably just do both while your there...also while the cluster is out i recommend checking the speed sensor built into speedo, its one of the components of the cruise control...

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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    I just replaced my clutch cylinder last week and decided to go ahead and replace my brake master cylinder since it was the original and my van has 215k on it. I also decided to do my brake master cylinder for a couple other reasons as well;

    a)The biggest chore is the dash removal and re-assembly. I already had to do it once to clean my climate spider and replace the heater blower motor so the following week when I had to do it again for the clutch I broke down and added a brake master cylinder to my rockauto purchase.

    b) There is a youtube video by fellow member Aaron under his Grae Skye studio handle that documents the clutch and brake master cylinder swap and in it he does both clutch and brake and if you do the same it makes it extremely easy to follow along.

    I may have interpreted this part wrong because I do not have a facebook account where the discussion took place but in the comments of Aaron's video, there is mention of not needing to bench bleed the clutch cylinder after the brake master if you did not depress the cylinder at all while handling. I went with this advice because I like taking unnecessary risks to save a couple minutes and it actually worked fine.

    Also I was fiddling with the hairpin cotter pin that attaches the clutch cylinder to the clutch pedal in the dark on a dirt driveway and lost it to the abyss. I ended up going to auto zone and buying an assorted pack of them and used one that looked the right size. In hindsight, it had taken me a half hour to try and get the rusty old cotter pin back into the slot and I was getting pretty frustrated. The new one took a few minutes of finessing but as soon it was lined up it locked in pretty fast and made that step much easier than others have expressed.

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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    Well, not bench bleeding the master prior to install will indeed save you like 5 or even 10 mins!

    But here's the rub.
    When a master is built (or rebuilt) there will be air trapped in the assembly, bench bleeding will get all that out so that when you install the part you're not trying to get all those little air bubbles out and all the way to the slave.
    It is actually WAY quicker to waste those first few minutes in the vice.

    Today's reality is that most masters are going to be rebuilt units, by a person getting paid by the part, not the hour.
    Needless to say, rebuilds are not always 100%

    Bench bleeding will identify a bad rebuild, BEFORE it gets installed.
    Installing a bad master will cause hours and hours of frustration.
    YMMV

  14. #34
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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    I just replaced my clutch and brake master cylinders last week. As mentioned above, unless you're a yoga master, you have much better view and access to clutch and brake master cylinders if you remove the instrument cluster unit. You may not need to remove the whole dash. I did and paid huge price to unscrew/putting back all screws. I ended up with 4 screws still left in my part dish

    Removal of the cluster is straightforward, after removing steering column covers/shroud, just few screws holding the cluster to dash (I have a CM65 frame '94 Liteace). Unhook speedo cable, and few electrical connectors behind the cluster and pull the cluster out. In my case, I had to remove four bolts holding the dash to the frame in order to give some wriggle room for the brake master cylinder to be pulled out.

    If you see brake fluid puddle next to clutch pedal, you may have leaks at the hose connector from the reservoir. Tube is connected with spring clamp. Good luck!

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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    thanks for your response to my post. you mention in the last line that i may have leaks at the hose connector from the reservoir - as i do have a small leak showing on the floor mat beneath the clutch pedal pivot. is it possible that i do not in fact need to replace my clutch & brake master cylinders? from what i can see (which isn't much!) i would still have to remove the cluster above the steering wheel to even visualize the reservoir connection. is it possible that the hose spring clamp is the only thing needing attention and that the plastic reservoir is not cracked?does anyone know where i might find a close-up photo of the reservoir/tubes/cylinder connection assembly? thanks again for any/all responses. (and may everyone have a happy solstice week!)

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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    Here's a couple of helpful threads:

    https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...-the-Dashboard

    https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...aster-Cylinder

    These are automatic vans (no clutch master), but you get the idea. Clutch and brakes use the same reservoir, so if yours is a manual, the clutch master and the extra supply tubes would be up under there too. Tim

  17. #37
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    Re: clutch master and slave cylinders

    Before you open up the dash/instrument cluster, I would crawl under the steering wheel section and tried to touch and feel any signs of leaks near the connections. There are two connectors in clutch master cylinder: one coming from the fluid reservoir, which is spring clamped, and the other is the clutch line going to slave cylinder, which is connected with a flair nut. Since you have puddles on the clutch pivot area, I suspect it is the case. How is your clutch working? If the master cylinder leaks, you would have tough time to shift. If the leak is at the fluid supply line, you'd probably don't have any issues with shifting.

    If the brake master cylinder is leaking, you'll see puddles near brake pedal. Please see if any leak signs on brake booster drum. Mine was bad so I had to replace the brake master cylinder. Reservoir is at near door opening so it would not leak to near the clutch pedal.

    Here is the picture of hoses going to clutch master cylinder (left) and brake master cylinder (right side). My van is RHD so brake fluid reservoir is on the right side of the image.

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