crank no start...diagnosis help.

[Filippo]

I recently bought a 1989 Toyota Van and im trying to restore it to road trip worthy condition. When I bought it, it had obviously sat idle for a number of years. It cranked and I test drove it to the bank to get some purchasing money. While there I saw a coolant leak underneath it. Drove it back. Returned later to buy it. I figured an external coolant leak isnt that big of a deal and I would be able to fix it up easily. The next time I tried to crank it to drive it home (after the sale) It was a very hard start. Initially there was white smoke that cleared up. After I got it home and really took a look under the seats, the poor van had been neglected for sure. It wouldnt start and I started trouble shooting. Pretty sure the fire side of the crank triangle is good to go. I replaced some things (plugs, dist cap, rotor, wires, battery) just in case. I also spark tested the plugs (well, I tested one and it shocked me, not sure why). Air flow meter tests fine with an ohm meter. Replaced fuel pump, sender, filter and did some cleaning of the gas tank. After all that, It still didnt crank. The first time I tried it would almost turn over and start then each additional attempt at cranking, it didnt do as well. I am in the process of removing and cleaning and replacing most of the fuel system. (New Pulsation dampener, pressure regulator on the way.) I think the issue might be fuel related because the tank was full of corrosion. The fuel sender basically crumbled into nothing when I cleaned it with vinegar. I'm cleaning the lines out as I remove them. I checked the EFI main relay, which was fine. I did a fuel pressure test just behind the injector and it showed pressure at 18 psi. Way too low. The pump sounds like its running fine when I short the test port. Does anyone have any advice to get this thing running? Especially about the fuel system. My plan now is to replace parts of the fuel system and clean out or replace lines as I disassemble the fuel system. I will also test the injectors once I get there. Would the coolant leak have anything to do with the hard/nonexistant start? What else can I do to diagnose the problem?

[timsrv]

Hi & welcome to TVT! I'm a little unclear on your definition of crank. My interpretation of the term means the starter rotates the engine. Example: "engine cranks but doesn't start" would indicate starter was fine, but "engine doesn't crank" would indicate a starter problem. Are you saying the starter isn't working? When you tested the fuel pressure, did you do it before or after the regulator? It's important to test this before the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) as it controls pressure by spilling off the excess which is then returned back to the tank. If you were testing on the return line, then the results would be meaningless. Here's a thread where fuel pressure testing is discussed: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...sure-regulator

Did you check for ECU trouble codes? If not you should do that next. Here's a link to instructions on how to do it: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/c...vice-Connector. Tim

[Filippo]

The engine cranks. The starter works properly. The issue is that the engine wont run. It is either a fuel issue or a simple electrical issue. I have accessed the ECU but havent tested anything with it yet. I took the pressure reading from where the 12 mm (i think it was 12) union bolt connects the fuel injector rail to the pressure dampener. On the front side of the intake manifold. I actually used the instructions on this forum to do it. Got the pressure gauge from Harbor freight as well. I removed 2 high pressure lines today and cleaned them out, they had a bunch of buildup in them. working on getting to injectors. I'll check out those links, thanks.

[Filippo]

Also, does anyone know of an EGR valve replacement that doesnt cost almost a hundred bucks? I have found a lot of them that look just like the one on my van but my van isnt listed as a compatible vehicle. there are ones for other Toyota vehicles that cost $10 but anything specifically for a 1989 van seems to run much higher. Would one of these work?

EGR listed for a van on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Vacuum-M...e065a4&vxp=mtr

EGR listed for other Toyota vehicles:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Lexus...159f22&vxp=mtr

they look exactly the same but the price difference!

[Filippo]

So, I replaced a multitude of parts and put everything back together and then checked the ECU code and I'm getting 5-1. Which, in an 89 van is:

Diagnosis = No "IDL" signal, "NSW" signal or "A/C" signal to ECU

Trouble Area =

*A/C switch circuit
*A/C switch
*A/C amplifier
*Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
*Throttle Position Sensor
*Neutral Start Circuit
*Neutral Start Switch
*Accelerator Pedal & Cable
*ECU


I installed a new TPS using the post and video provided on here and I am positive it is installed correctly.

The other possibilities, I'm not sure of how to check. When I try to crank it, it almost runs the first time then dies. Each additonal turn of the key gets me less of a crank. I am at a loss as of what to do next.

Here is a video of what it sounds like when it's trying to crank. Hope it helps.


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_uVQl8tz4vY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

http://youtu.be/_uVQl8tz4vY

[betterinwater]

New member here. Been lurking on this site for a while, but I have finally reached a point where I need to ask a few questions of the knowledge base. I have been having a similar problem with my van and I am struggling to diagnose. I bought my 88 4wd, manual cargo with 240k a couple months back. Since purchasing it the car has driven without issue other than a handful of times where it had a harder time starting than usual. Recently I decided to redo the cooling system as I knew the radiator to be old and it seemed to be warmer than I wanted. I pulled out the radiator, had it recored, and replaced all the coolant hoses as well as the water pump and fan clutch. Right before the coolant system job the van started fine, but upon completion the engine has not been able to start.

The engine cranks fine but does not even get close to starting. I have begun the diagnosis and have checked the following

-good spark
-~40 psi of fuel pressure at injection manifold both by shorting test connector and also when cranking
-visual inspection of distributor cap for wear
-12V at ECU pins No. 10 and No. 20 (fuel injector supplies)
-Check engine code reads 5-1. I have cleared the code by removing fuse/disconnecting battery but immediately comes back on even before attempting to start. Could a mis-calibrated TPS cause a no-start?

My first thoughts obviously jumped to the idea that I forgot some connector/vacuum tube etc. that was removed during the cooling system restoration, but after quite a bit of searching and diagnosis time I am becoming less convinced. Would greatly appreciate any insight, thanks in advance.