No reserve auction. Could be a good deal on a JDM 4x4 van.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Other-Makes-...3D301659910974
No reserve auction. Could be a good deal on a JDM 4x4 van.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Other-Makes-...3D301659910974
Last edited by CleverUserName; 06-13-2015 at 01:43 PM.
Van Addict
It says no reserve and I think it only is up to $2,550-with 8 days to go though. High roof is nice but If I'm buying another van it's gotta have the upper corner windows-those are the sweetest!
I really like the baffle like "Big" air hose-I wonder if we can use these in our vans?
When I initially posted this here he only had one picture and the opening bid was $20k. Maybe the high price was a placeholder until he could upload more pictures. I will change the description.Originally Posted by djshimon
I like the high roof vans with the upper corner windows too, but I wouldn't buy one as finding glass for those if broken would be a nightmare. Very difficult, most likely impossible.
No Reserve auctions are alot more interesting. Anybody wanna guess what it goes for?
$9,999!
LOL. I doubt it. Based on what we've seen lately it will be much more than that.
Hey guys I just found this thread and wanted to introduce myself. My name is Mark and yes I bought the '89 Towny that was on eBay. I worked out a deal with the seller outside of eBay and although I don't want to give away the exact amount I paid, let's just say it was not cheap! However, I couldn't be happier with the van and believe it or not it's now fully registered and titled in California. It was a stressful procedure and I'm so relieved to finally have that CA pink slip. The van is my daily driver (believe it or not to replace a 2014 Range Rover). I got tired of a big car payment and I've always wanted a Mitsu Delica. When I saw this TownAce on eBay I fell in love and the timing was right for me.
There were only a few issues with the van, some of which I've resolved already, others I'm working on. They are:
1. Tires. The tires that were on it were too small IMO, plus they were old. I put General 27x8.50r14 all-terrains on and it looks amazing.
2. AC. It just wasn't that cold. Turns out 2 things were wrong. First, the belt was too loose, fixed that. Secondly, it was way over charged (>50 psi). I let some pressure out and now it's icy front and rear.
3. Stereo. It didn't shut off when the key was removed. I knew it had to have the remote wire going to a constant hot so I ended up putting a new 2-DIN stereo in and using a proper remote wire.
4. Horsepower. I thought I could live with a slow van as my DD. I was wrong. So I turned up the fuel pressure a bit and now I couldn't be happier. Runs great and so far mileage hasn't been affected.
5. Dash lights. This one I haven't been able to resolve yet. The wiring is different than the US spec vans. No fusible link at the battery. So far I've replaced the positive battery terminal. Alternator seems to be working properly (I get 14 volts without AC, 13.7 under load). Oddly, the dash lights only come on at 14 volts. Thinking a bad voltage regulator, but unfortunately those are impossible to find. Next step will be to have the alternator brushes replaced. If that doesn't work then I'll just live with the occasional xmas tree lights.
I'm putting an alarm in this weekend for keyless entry. Next week is 2.5" turbo back exhaust and custom 2" trailer hitch. Future plans include custom roof rack, side ladder and custom boxed front bumper. I'll be refurbishing the cool little rims too, they have some clearcoat issues now.
Nice find. I like the Delica star wagons too.
These late 80's early 90's JDM Town Ace 4x4s have really appreciated in the last couple years. Haven't seen a nice one sell for less than $14K here in the states recently.
A good diesel additive will add lubricity to your fuel and protect your injection pump. I use stanadyne.
Sent you a PM as well.
I'm using Lucas diesel fuel additive right now. With my pump turned up I can put out some pretty thick black smoke if I step on it. With medium throttle she runs clean. Gotta love turbo diesels.
Rad!
The very, very first thing I would do if I were you would be to get an aftermarket temperature gauge (if it does not already have one.) These things are notorious for getting hot and blowing the head gasket, and warping the head. So I've heard.
I have this one:
http://www.sig.itel.net/
Spendy, but easy to install and seems to do the trick.
A lot of others like the durite gauge. I may get one of those as well....
Be sure your cooling system is up to snuff. I had both (yep, there is a second horizontal radiator) of my radiators recored and replaced the original viscous fan with an 18" electric fan utilizing the original shroud. adamh built a custom shroud for 2 9" fans. Pretty epic:
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...troduce-my-van
Mine gets hot sometimes on long uphill slogs, still.
This website is your new best friend:
http://www.townace.plus.com/aanswers.htm
Good luck and have fun. Awesome vans!!
Matt
Hey Matt thanks for all the info. The warping head issue is my biggest concern on this van and I definitely want to avoid it if possible. I like the idea of a temp sensor mounted to the head directly. Do you have any idea of what temperature is "too hot"? Seems it would be simple to just make sure to stay out of that zone. So far my cooling system is working like a champ, kind of afraid to mess with it really as the van runs really cool even in this record breaking heat.
Also I just discovered that TownAce answers website the other day...wow what an awesome resource I've already learned so much.
89 Ace-
A quick disclaimer before you read below: I am a novice mechanic who is learning as I go with this van. I suppose take anything I suggest with a grain of salt.
As I mentioned, my entire cooling system is basically new. I also have (3) 1/8" holes drilled into the flange of my thermostat. All of that said, my van seems to run a pretty wide gamut as far as temperature is concerned. On a straight flat road I am usually around 185F - 195F. Down a long hill she will drop to as low as 165F - 170F. On a steep slog I am usually between 195F - 206F. I have the alarm on my temp gauge set to 212F. For now I am uncomfortable letting my van get hotter than that. If she hits 212F I will pull over for a little breather. Could it take more? Probably, but I am not ready to experiment on that.
"So far my cooling system is working like a champ, kind of afraid to mess with it really as the van runs really cool even in this record breaking heat."
Glad to hear that! A couple of things to check/keep in mind though. First, the stock temperature gauge is notoriously unreliable. I have heard rumors of it sitting perfectly in the middle, then before you realize it happens it will have jumped up into the red (oh and btw I am not trying to freak you out, just want to pass along the info I have gathered....could be an urban legend...) People speculate that Toyota did this to avoid a bunch of service calls as the van fluctuates in temperature so much (like mine....)
Pull off your radiator cap before you start it next time (and apologies if this information you already know....when I bought mine I was a total luddite. Also even if this is not new to you, it may help someone else down the road reading this post in the future...) There should be coolant visible up to the overflow outlet. If there is not you may be losing coolant and/or pressure in your system. It would be a good idea to look in look that. Start the van with the rad cap off. You should not get any major bubbling/spitting ( I have heard this is a quick way to speculate if you head gasket is compromised.) Rumor has it this is the latest and greatest radiator cap for these things:
Toyota 1640164501
It is a pressurized system so I have heard the rad cap plays a critical role in the way the coolant is moved through the system.
Good luck, and any questions I will do my best to pass along what I know!
Matt
Thank you very much for all this! I'm going on a road trip in a couple weeks and I'll check this all out before I go. I really like the gauge you used and will likely order it. Did it take long to receive from Australia?
I can't remember off hand, but I would say it was about a week/week and a half?
Matt
I've moved this thread from Van Finds to the Diesel Van subforum now that it's gained technical content. Carry on!
Gwen
1985 5-speed window cargo van set up for llama haulin'; 345K ("Trustyvan")
1989 4WD 5-speed DLX; 410K and an odd sense of humor ("Skylervan")
Thanks Gwen!
Also, 89 ace: Unless you have a record of it being done (and when) I would suggest changing your timing belt as soon as you can. Toyota recommends changing it every 60,000 miles and I have heard it is a good idea to keep up on that.
It is a pretty straight forward job, as these things go. If you find a version (I have a digital version) of the 2CT manual and do a bit of research on ace answers it is a relatively straight forward job. Plus it is a good way to learn about your van.
Matt
Thanks Matt, yes actually I will have to change it soon. There's a sticker in the engine bay that says it was changed at 100km and to change at 200km. I'm at 180 km right now.
Hey guys I'm getting my van ready for a big trip and could use any tips for the following:
Oil Change: Well actually this should be pretty straight forward. I already have a Wix 51368 oil filter and just ordered a gallon of Rotella 5w40.
Fuel Filter Change: Hoping the '86 Camry 2CT filter is interchangeable. From my research it appears they are. I just ordered a Wix 33138 fuel filter. Does anyone know which fuse to remove so I can run the engine out of fuel pressure? Also, once I have the new filter in place, does anyone know the correct procedure to prime it before starting? Can I get to the filter from the engine bay?
Hard starting issue: Lately my van has been difficult to start in the mornings. It's not very cold here (mid-60's overnight), but still it takes 3 or 4 cranking sessions to get going at about 10 seconds each. I thought it was my battery not getting the starter up to minimum cranking speed, but I replaced the battery and still have the issue. My current theory is that fuel is draining back into the gas tank overnight as my driveway is on an incline. Tonight I will test this theory by parking backwards. I'm also hoping the new oil and fuel filter will help with starting. Also, I do have my fuel pump maximum fuel screw turned 3/4 inward from stock, but this problem started about a week after I did that.
Coolant: I just plan on topping off the coolant before I go. It's a long drive, but along the coast so temps should be cool. Any special coolant I should buy? I was planning on just getting any 50/50 mix.
Electrical gremlin: I still get the xmas light dash lights whenever I get to 14v or higher. I've tried a lot of things, but nothing has worked. It leads me to believe that the external voltage regulator for the alternator is not working properly. I've tried finding a replacement, but they just don't exist anymore. I even tried Japan directly as I have family there right now. I'm not too concerned about the dash lights as everything is working properly. Battery charges just fine. If the AC is running I never get the dash lights because the drain keeps the system under 14v. I thought about running some sort of resistor or conditioner from the alternator to cap output at 13.9v, but I have no idea where to start on that one. The highest voltage I ever see is about 14.2 which I think is still safe. Still, before I go on this trip I'd like to bring some spare fuses with me just in case.
Clunk in driveline: Every once in a while I will feel a "clunk" from the rear end when I accelerate from a dead stop. My theory is it's the axle at the differential or the u-joint. I was going to slide under there and just grease every zerk fitting I can find. Sound right?
Tire pressure: I have General Grabber A/T's. They say 50 psi max, but what do you think I should air them to for the trip? I was thinking 45 psi? I'm at 35 psi now and they look a little low.
Trailer hitch: I want to have a 2" hitch welded on before I go to mount my bike rack. Does anyone know of a hitch that will fit? If not, I will have a custom hitch made.
Any other suggestions?
Oil Filter:
I use Fram PH6357
Fuel Filter:
I use Fram 4922. I don't recall pulling any fuse...there is a wire with a connector that you have to disconnect going directly to the bottom fuel filter if I recall. There should be a little hose down there allowing you to drain the filter. I think I had to remove the air intake hose to get at the filter from above to aid in loosening it. Once the new filter is installed there is a black priming pump on top of the filter that you can pump a few times to prime it.
Start issue:
No idea. Let us know what you find out.
Coolant:
I haven't used any special coolant. Be sure you check the coolant along your trip and top it off if necessary.
Gremlin:
No idea. Let us know what you find out (maybe in a new thread, as with the clunk and the starting issue so it is not buried later when people try to find it....)
Clunk:
Mine has that as well. Let me know if you figure it out.
Naturally, be sure to check all other fluids including Transmission Fluid, brake fluid, power steering etc.
Good luck and have fun! If I think of anything else I'll let you know.
Matt
Thanks Matt!
So I have discovered that like I thought, my hard starting issue was related with fuel supply. My driveway is a little steep and for some reason fuel was draining back into the tank overnight. So for now I'm just backing into the driveway every night. I'm hoping that when I change the fuel filter it will help with this issue. There is a check valve built into the fuel filter assembly. I'm thinking when I increased my fuel pressure at the pump, it stirred up some dirt and gummed up the valve. Hopefully, when I put the new filter in it helps clean or dislodge whatever is jamming up the valve. Worst case is I have be sure to park on level ground or backed up hills at night.
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