Most painters just mask and spray, but I always insist on taking them off (more professional). Tim
Most painters just mask and spray, but I always insist on taking them off (more professional). Tim
Absolutely. I'm restoring my parent's old van that they bought new back in '87. It hasn't moved since '06. Was locked up in an old garage and forgotten. Got it up and running early this year(still runs great!). This September will mark 30 years when it was purchased. I have fond memories of it growing up. I still remember when we brought it home brand new from the dealership. So it's important that I do it right as best as I can. This is a great forum and I hope to contribute as much as I can. Thanks again.
Awesome! Glad to have you here. If at all possible, please take lots of pics and post them here......but I'd recommend avoiding photobucket. Tim
Bizcotch, the washers nozzles, ( I call them Pissers ) are definitely a "remove before paint" item. They often are a starting point for rust on vans that have spent their time outdoor (not your case) and are mounted over a small plastic base/gasket that drys up over time. Not to mention that after a couple coats of primer + base coat + clear coat, you end up with a pretty ugly build up against the edge of the masking tape.
They are an absolute PITA to remove, not only because you need to remove most of the dash but even after that, the access is restricted by the wiper system itself. The clip is a U shaped spring wire type that slide in and out.
Start with the passenger side as it has a little bit larger space for the hand and you can figure out the best way to proceed.
I use a long skinny flat screw driver and a magnet : Find the closed end of the U clip (by feel), push the screw driver tip into it (against the steel of the "hood"), now and only now, stick the magnet to the shank of the screw driver and pry away slowly, grab the clip with fingers or needle nose pliers or such. Now the fun part: the driver side.
Dismount the wiper motor and drop down the wiper mechanism. From here on, its all blind work with finger tips, driver and magnet. Do not drop the clip here or it's GONE Bye Bye forever in the jungle of electrical wiring below. Pull nozzle out of "hood" and disconnect clear hose (short and tight) from hose barb, do not let it go loose: use tape or wire so you can retrieve it later.
To reinstall, I use long needle nose plyers to insert the clip. I also have a surgical suture plier/tool that locks up on the clip. I tie a length of thin fishing line to the clip so if I drop it .... correction... when I drop it, I just fish it back and start again . Also you will need a assistant outside to push on the nozzle. TIP: give the assistant ear plugs so he or she doesn't have to ear you and 'cause you will!
LG.
"perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away." A. de St Exupery.
Great info and tips! thank you Sir. I was really hoping that Toyota was nice enough to allow the "pissers" to be able to twist to right and pop out through a notch, but I guess that would've been too easy.. I will definitely need a six pack after the removal process. Thanks again! I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes.
Update... after 2hrs and 15mins of dash disassembly, they finally came out. I was joyous!! Thanks guys for the tips. Some WD40 helped as well. Now I'm off for some beer
Enjoy the beer you have earned it!
Mine had clear hoses..? They must have been replaced before. Good thing about that is I could see the crud and deposits inside. white vinegar over night, and compressed air took care of that. Now have an easy time sanding and painting without the "pissers" in the way
Something else worth removing before paint is the antenna base, that thing is right at eye level.
LG.
"perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away." A. de St Exupery.
If your antenna is shot, just cut the wire and leave it behind........then use it to pull the new antenna wire after paint. If the antenna is good, then put a piece of safety wire (or similar) on the radio end before pulling it out. Then leave the safety wire in the hole and use it to pull the wire back when you're done. That saves a bunch of time and insures the wire follows the same path as before. Tim
Thanks guys. A little too late about the antenna I had already taken it off before reading your replies. Did think about how I was going to route it back through the pillar.
Regarding the "pisser" hoses, I'm wondering why your van had clear ones while mine were black. I'm 100% sure they were never removed/replaced. Van was in the family since new and I do not ever remember dad messing with them...As a matter of fact he never did any of the maintenance himself. Mostly dealer. But I do know that toyotas used clear hoses in earlier models such as my 82 Tercel.
I didn't question the clear hose then, (until I saw your pictures) The visible dirt inside them just prompted me to check the rest of the system. Every other hose but one was black rubber, including the tail gate. The only other clear hose and the inside of the tank where covered with the same crud as the front "pisser" hoses. So the cleaning lady went to work:.
Whoever swapped the black rubber hose for clear ones has my greatest thanks for they pushed my alarm button at the right time. One speck of the brown crap into the "pissers" and they would have to come back out again.
All part of restoring, I guess
LG.
"perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away." A. de St Exupery.
You take any pictures of the disassembly? I am currently removing bumpers/trim etc to get the van teady for paint. Doing all the prep work/sanding to save some cash. Was just going to mask off the windshield nozzle towers.
Thanks Josh
1987 4wd 5spd Cargo van (uncut)-modding in 3,2,1
Unfortunately I did not. I was too concerned and focused on not losing any screws and trying not to break anything. However, it looks more intimidating than it really is. I do suggest putting the screws into baggies and labeling each bag. TIP: remove the instrument cluster (very carefully), the cluster housing, glove box to access top dash pad screws. Pretty straightforward but still be conscious of hidden screws. Note: you'll have to remove the center plastic air ducts after removing the metal portion of the dash that is wedged between dash pad and glass. The piece I'm referring to has the vin number plate that's visible thru the windshield. It's held by several 10mm bolts (visible between glass and dash) and one Phillips screw on each end. Once you get to that point, you'll think that the nozzles (pissers) will be visible, but no. Unfortunately all the real fun begins at that very moment. I suggest using a small mirror to see the clips and orientation of the underside of the nozzles. I have small hands so it was easy for me to reach under there and wiggle the clip off. Spray a little wd40 if you can. This will allow for the clips to come out a little easier. Strongly suggest to remove the passenger side nozzle first. This will give you a good idea of how to best remove the tricky one on the drivers side. Again, i have smaller hands which allowed me to remove the driver side without unhooking the wiper mechanism.
For pics, I searched: "dashboard removal" http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...hboard+removal. Boom! Someone on here was nice enough to get into detail of how to remove the dash pieces with great pictures! Let me know if you find it. Good luck and may the force be with you.
Also...before taking off the instrument cluster dash shroud (cover), make sure to take the brake fluid reservoir cap off. It'll save you about 10minutes of figuring out why it won't come off.
I originally wasn't able to wash either front or rear windows. I have replaced the washer pump and now I'm able to wash the front windscreen. When I press and hold the switch for the rear window, the wiper moves and works but no window fluid is dispensed. I don't hear that it is even trying to work. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
There is a single reservoir but separate pumps for the front and rear. You may have a faulty rear pump as well.
It is the same pump for both front and rear, I recently changed mine. Less than $15 plus shipping from Rockauto. Both Pumps (Front and Rear) are attached to same washer fluid tank inside the van by the rear passenger tail light.
Choose for Me to Minimize Cost
Related Parts
Price TRICO 11603 Black Info
Front
Choose:
[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] ($7.09)
$7.09 TRICO 11100 Black; Universal Info
Rear
$8.36 ACI 172872 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info
FitsFront
OrRear
$11.25 ACDELCO 86700 {#89001112} Professional; Black; Universal Info
Rear
$13.48 ACDELCO 86721 {#89001133} Professional; Black Info
Front
$18.82
Choose for Me to Minimize Cost
Related Parts
Price TRICO 11603 Black Info
Front
Choose:
[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] ($7.09)
$7.09 TRICO 11100 Black; Universal Info
Rear
$8.36 ACI 172872 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info
FitsFront
OrRear
$11.25 ACDELCO 86700 {#89001112} Professional; Black; Universal Info
Rear
$13.48 ACDELCO 86721 {#89001133} Professional; Black Info
Front
$18.82
My washer change valve still seems to be working, but while I have everything out to replace the rear pump, I think I'm going to replace it with something like this...mostly because I want to see if it'll work. An electromechanical valve seems like way overkill just to keep the tube from emptying back into the tank
How Can The Radiator Light Be Real If Our Eyes Aren't Real
https://www.amazon.com/Anco-6708-Win...6761211&sr=8-1
Recently purchased 2 of these, they work great!
That smells like regular! She needs premium DUDE! PREMIUM!