Gas pedal / accelerator pedal

[blakebecker37130]

Hello,
I am in need of assistance. I discovered my gas pedal was sticking on my 89 van wagon. I removed the two nuts and bolts to access the assembly. I did notice the assembly bushings cables and springs were in need of lubrication. I am having a tough time trying to install the assembly into the case and back on to the mounting bracket without the outer bushings falling off and the return springs leaving their positions. Do the cables have to come off in order to accomplish this? Also does the accelerator pedal need to be manipulated in a certain way to get the assembly up into the case. I’m am currently dead in the water due to this issue. Any help via pointing me to an already established thread or advice is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Blake

[blakebecker37130]

Got it tackled. Here’s some advice, don’t attempt unless you like frustration and agony There is probably some SST that makes the job easier?

[blakebecker37130]

No love for the newbies on this forum?

[abbyvanman]

Hey all, I’ve been having my gas pedal stick at top position sometimes (its an intermittent issue) when I try start it and when I’m at intersections. It’s not the cable as I’ve checked it and noticed slack in the cable before depressing it. So presumably the throttle gets stuck closed somehow? Is this a common issue? Anyone know what steps I can take to fix it? Thanks in advance!

[Burntboot]

Abby - could you please elaborate what you mean by "It’s not the cable as I’ve checked it and noticed slack in the cable before depressing it."

The pedal is contained within a pedal box, just to see the cable one has to remove the box and flip upside down.
When cables start to go, they don't just snap all of a sudden, usually 1 or 2 strands will break and fray.
They can often cause hang ups in pedal operation and are usually intermittent in nature (doesn't happen everytime)

About the only other thing would be crazy excessive buildup in the intake/throttle plate, removing the intake tube should allow sufficient visibility to know if that is where your issue originates.

[abbyvanman]

What I meant about the cable was that at the throttle body i can see some slack in the cable before I depress the pedal and the pedal has a little bit of play before it gets stuck. Taking your suggestion about the throttle body - instead of pushing down the pedal I tried pushing the throttle where the cable connects to it an where there is play and it seems the pedal isnt the issue as the throttle itself seems to be getting stuck. Must be the build up you are suggesting. I will pop off the intake tube and take a look! thanks!

[SUPvan]

Got it tackled. Here’s some advice, don’t attempt unless you like frustration and agony There is probably some SST that makes the job easier?

I was about to take mine all apart today. 93 Previa seems all mechanical, but with some weird linkage to the cruise control. It seems some water got in the sheath where the cable went and froze. IT defrosted today after a week of 20degrees and gas pedal works fine now.

The sheath for the throttle cables looks gummed up, any suggestion for cleaning or lube to keep moisture out in the future?

[Burntboot]

The bigger question might be "where is the water coming from" that got it gummed in the first place.

As to cleaning, any good solvent sprayed into the sheath with lots of towels to soak up the muck that comes out.
Preventing the reoccurrence will require finding the water leak, that is causing the issue
(windshields are a common source of footwell water leaks)

[timsrv]

After cleaning, I'd recommend spraying a quality cable lube in there. If lube is inside there it will displace any water and prevent it from getting back in (at least for a while). They make cable lube injector tools, but I just use a piece of stretch wrap plastic to tightly wrap the spray tube up tight against the cable. If the spray tube is butted up to the cable sleeve, the plastic wrap will seal it and force the lube to travel inside the sleeve. I'll usually spray for a solid 10 seconds and/or not stop until the lube starts flowing out the opposite end of the cable. In the past I've used Tri-Flow for this, but I'm sure there's others. If you need it right away, go to a motor-sports business and ask for a can of whatever they use. Motorcycles have lots of cables that are exposed (get wet) so this type of business will carry and recommend the best products. Tim