Ooops, thought I send them all.
Part Number on the replacement is 10P17. Not sure if that even helps.
These are not Toyota parts. That is what was so interesting. Everyone uses the same parts. He had tons of these in all shapes and sizes.
Ooops, thought I send them all.
Part Number on the replacement is 10P17. Not sure if that even helps.
These are not Toyota parts. That is what was so interesting. Everyone uses the same parts. He had tons of these in all shapes and sizes.
Hey Tim:
He did mention one other thing. After he gave me his 30 min tutorial on AC, he explained how the expansion valve worked and told me that the pressure differential is different between R12 and R134. Anytime you change over this should be changed to a 134 expansion valve. Every hear of that?
I checked Rock Auto and found only one out of the lot from Delco that spec R134A only.
I think I will bite the bullet and get this since the expansion valve is the original in the van for both front and rear. I think they are the same. There is no mention in Rock on this. It looks like a real PITA getting that front evaporator out.
He also told me that in most of them there is an adj screw in side the diaphragm that can be adjusted also.
The last test was the condenser and he told me to know real quick if it is good or not just put a garden hose on it and check your cooling. This will tell you if the condenser is limiting the cooling. There should be between 30 and 50 degF between the input of the condenser and the output.
MT
Forgot, here is the Rock Auto part.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...279751&jsn=397
FYI, I'm old school. I quit working for Toyota back about the time they outlawed R-12, so I know nothing about conversions other than I don't want to go there. Doesn't surprise me though. Since the system was designed around R-12 I wouldn't expect all things to operate/function correctly after a conversion. TimOriginally Posted by MyToy
OK, begun the removal of the evaporator and did not get far. Could not find much on TVT.
I could not get the damn thing out!
FSM does not tell much.
I removed all the bolts, nuts, and screws as per the manual but it seems to be held in some how. The High and low pressure hose connections are disconnected from the bottom. I removed the case clips on the front and that at least allowed the case to be separated a little.
Is there some trick in getting this thing out?
I've never had to replace an expansion valve on a van before.............so I've never done that. Hopefully somebody else here has and will know the secret. The hardest thing I've done is replaced the fan motor (3 or 4 times now)........and that was a PITA every time. Tim
New up date on this. I finally was able to remove the evaporator. It requires removal of fuse box. There is a cable mount that keeps the evaporator assembly from coming out.
So I am on my way again except for one issue. The fittings that attach to the compressor will not fit.
The old compressor has these fittings mounted opposite each other. The new manifold has them going the same direction. So the high pressure tube hits the low.
I have to reverse the low pressure tube.
My hydraulic shop told me the only way he could make this work is with a new fitting or with an adaptor.
I checked around and found fittings like this but not sure if they will fit.
I have attached a pic of the old high pressure hose and fitting with a 1 bolt mount. I found one similar to this that adapts the entry from the side to the top. I am just not sure if they are the same. Is there a name to the fitting we have? This one from Summit is one that looks similar. This other one is from Vintage Air and it looks similar. They both have numbers to them. Any thoughts on this?
MT
Yeah, I had some concerns about that when I saw the picture of your updated manifold, but didn't want to be a pessimist. I'm sorry to hear about that. You are blazing a new trail with manifold/line combinations so I can't help you. Have you talked to the guy you got the manifold from? Maybe you could take your old hoses and both manifolds to him and maybe he can find some hoses that will be compatible with the new angles and have the same type fittings on each end??? Good luck. Tim
Hey folks:
Back on line with this again. Got pulled away with business and covid crap.
I was finally able to remove the evaporator to find that the expansion valves output fitting came off with my fingers. Just more crap keeps coming to the surface. I have some pics here. As for the the manifold fitting, I was able to talk to the guy I met and he was very helpful in getting me a fitting that could be welded on to the high pressure connection to the compressor. With that my welder friend will cut it off and make it fit correctly.
I did run into an interesting issue however. After I mounted the compressor back on I corked up the ports so they would not get dirty. No power was applied so the clutch solenoid was not connected.
I had finished for the day and started the van. Still running like a top. Then all of a sudden I hear this slight chirp come out of the engine somewhere. It almost sounded like a belt or pully from the compressor. It got continually worse the longer I ran it. So I shut it down and started it again with the same noise. Waited a week to get back to working on it and started it and no noise. Until she got warm, then it came back. I also noticed that when I shut the engine down the noise did not stop with at the same time the engine did. It has a slight delay with a weeeeeep kind of sound. I decided to start it up and remove the radiator cap to see if maybe it was pressure, then I did the same for the oil. Bang, that was it, when the oil cap is loosened the noise goes a way. I then removed the vent pipe to the fuel mixture unit and it went away but ran like crap.
Any thoughts or point me in the direction in TVC where I should post this one? Engine was only used for 10 minutes between this time period.
MT
Not sure if this is the best place to post this, please move to appropriate thread or delete if necessary.
This spring I removed my rear HVAC (ac + heater) and made space for a little solar power setup. It works great.
However, I'm getting my AC serviced right now at a shop in SF. I've never had working AC and my wife and road trip a lot, so we're looking into getting some cold air blowing. Since the removal of the rear unit, they have capped the lines to the rear unit and replaced appropriate parts: new Denso compressor, Denso evap/drier, Denso expansion valve. The problem they're having is that the compressor clutch will not disengage. From my understanding it's in a constantly running state which would obviously not only do undo strain on the engine but ruin the compressor if engaged all the time.
I'm wondering if the removal of the rear unit would have anything to do that, or if it's an electrical problem of some kind. I've looked into the wiring diagram in the FSM (a/t with rear conditioner), and I dont think that unhooking the rear unit would have any effect on the proper functioning of the compressor, but I could be wrong. I'm coming here for advice or input as to what could cause this and potential solutions.
Thanks.
UPDATE:
Never mind. It has been sorted out.
Last edited by cornell; 07-27-2020 at 12:31 PM.
Can anyone tell me where the compressor ground wire attaches to the van frame?
I cannot trace the wire and I have an intermittent ground issue.
I'm hoping the location is accessible so I can clean up the connection.
For what it is worth, I have completely removed the entire AC system in my 86 van. There were no ground cables attached to the compressor. I am sure it is getting its ground from the engine and chassis.
mt
As a general rule, Japanese cars mostly put switches and relays on the negative side of a circuit.
Ground points are used, but they are collected and ganged (LF footwell, RF footwell.....) and should be "after" the switch.
Best to follow the wiring diagram.
Battery negative cable connects to frame and then to DS motor mount bracket. Since engine is conductive, it supplies ground through the compressor mount (no ground wire). Tim
Ok so I've been having this issue for a while. I'm on my second compressor and don't know what the issue is.
Basically the guy installed a new compressor, charged the system and ran for a few mins then stopped working. It turns on, engages and then stops. Turns on and stops again. Not working anymore. I don't know wtf the issue may be.
It worked while he installed and tested. I drove for maybe 20-30 mins and now seems to turn on for about a second. Sometimes turns on again for another second and stops.
Oh...I'll make another post but. My van has a new engine and overheats. I've checked everything and no luck. Ugh.
For sure you have some issues on top of the AC. There are tons of areas in the forum that can provide trouble shooting for over heating. Check those out. I had the same problem but the process to trouble shoot was a bit out of the box.
As for your compression, it most likely is low in refrigerant. Maybe put a gauge on the low side to see if there is any pressure in there.
This clutch is controlled by the AC computer located behind the glove box. Mine went bad but it was like dead, it did not come on then off. I have replaced it and it worked the last time I used it.
I am just finishing rebuilding the entire AC system. So I have to reached to the point of filler her back up with refrigerant
So we shall see how it goes. Check that pressure!
mt
There's no way to know what's going on if you don't check pressures. If you don't already have a factory service manual and a gauge set, if you plan on keeping the van you need these things. The service manual has a comprehensive AC section with a troubleshooting chart (based on pressures). Of course it's for R12, so if it's been converted that changes the values a bit. If you get a gauge set, be sure to get one for the type of Freon your system uses.
Back to trying my go at the R12 refill.
re-read all 10 pages specifically on the R12/R12a refill.
found the refills on ebay.
1 can, 1 refill hose. $35 https://www.ebay.com/itm/274338335831
(or possibly this stuff; https://www.es-refrigerants.com/prod...ue/details.asp)
but no gauge to verify PSI before or after refilling system,
so found gauge
hi/lo and refill port $31 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...JRUJNIQR&psc=1
unfortunately it only says in extended description "R134a Adpater: 1/4" male" So what size is the R-12 fittings?
So if I read all correctly, steps for a van with R-12 (pre-1994 year models) only to refill, *not empty system and refill or replace parts or convert to other Freon*
check to make sure your compressor is kicking on.
It may not kick on because it's low on R-12.
hook up the gauge to the system, to see what the pressure is at.
if low on R-12 add R-12 to the low side inlet, will take time to build pressure so the compressor will kick on. Or put 12volts to compressor and it will kick on to cycle faster the R-12 you are trying to refill.
turn on front and rear AC during thr re-fill of R-12.
do not over pressure.
profit?
if that is mildly correct perhaps make a sticky? and or delete if its so bad of directions and start fresh.
Vandiwear-
I grabbed your quote tim because, on the front of my van ('93JDM) where the sight glass is, I only have one port there. I'm guessing there are more ports found throughout the lines but would that be the refill port on this system since it is right at the sight glass?
I was a member for 2 years before I bought my van.
Vandi-
That red cap is the high side. The low side is more towards the front of the vehicle, and on a larger diameter tubing. On my vehicle, it had a black cap. I can post a photo if you don't see it.
I just went through some of this myself.
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...sing-AC-system
My manifold gauge just arrived, but they sent the wrong adapters, so I'm waiting for the new ones to arrive, which should be today!
Yeah If you don't mind, Ive crawled under 3 times with a flash light and cant find a black cap with larger size tubing, it wouldn't be covered in insulation type foam, right?
I was a member for 2 years before I bought my van.
Vandi-
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