Front wheel studs replacement

[betterinwater]

Recently purchased 1988 4wd manual cargo and upon removing front wheels to replace front shocks I managed to snap one wheel stud and ruin the threads on two others. Not sure what happened when the last person installed the lugs, but I had to use a 4' breaker bar to get all the lugs loose and I am guessing they used a heavy duty impact and overtightened the hell out of them. I got some new studs thinking this would be an easy job, but seems like there is a fair amount of disassembly required in order to get studs out as they are blocked on the backside by hub flange. Before I get too deep into experimenting on my own, I wanted to ask if anyone has any guidance. Seems like the hub flange that holds the wheel studs is attached to the rotor with bolts that thread from the backside and so I am guessing I need to remove the rotor to access these. This sound about right?

[betterinwater]

After some investigation looks like the hub needs to be disassembled to some extent in order to get the rotor off. As far as I can tell the only way to remove the wheel studs is to remove the rotor which gives you access to the bolts that connect the rotor to the flange which holds the studs.

I pretty quickly got to the point where I was going to need the SST 09607-60020 which I think is just a 54mm socket to remove the locknut and then the adjusting nut on that retain the bearings. I was planning on ordering this tool so I can tackle the job this next weekend. While I am in there I was wondering if there is anything I should definitely replace and what I might want to inspect.

As of now I was planning on a minimum of

-replacing gasket on manual locks (part #?)
-replacing gasket on hub body (part #?)
-inspecting and repacking bearings (although done recently by shop)
-replacing all wheel studs and lug nuts (while I am there)

If there is anything else that should be looked at or replaced please let me know. Also when and why would it be worth changing the locking hub. I have heard Warn are the best but not sure it is worth the price to swap.

[originalkwyjibo]

This post has good info and part numbers for the locking hub and bearing seals: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...ht=locking+hub
Just scroll down a bit for diagrams and part #'s. The stock manual Aisin hubs are far superior to the Warn hubs and don't stick way out like the Warn's do. If you have stock auto locking hubs, unless they are working perfectly which is rare, they are junk. In that case, read the thread I linked you too thoroughly and replace them.

[pinkgrips236]

I went through the same thing, down to the 'well this should be easy' sentiment.

I followed the manual for each step and I recall it being pretty straightforward. I skipped the SST and just used some big channelocks.

[Burntboot]

Is it likely that the shop that repacked the wheels bearings was the same shop that caused issue with the studs?

I would have spare whl. brg seals on hand, just in case your's have seen better days.
As you're becoming aware, you're going in deep, always best to correct as many things as you can while you're in there.
- repack/replace brgs and seals, maybe new pads and rotors....

You can get away with the channel lock method of setting bearing preload.
Thats how I do my trailer wheel bearings as I don't have a socket that fits that nut.
Then again trailer brgs are $25 and take 20 mins to replace.
TV who bearings are on the order of $300 (up here at least) and I felt it prudent to drop the extra $30 on the 54mm socket so as to set the preload with a torque wrench.
I hate doing things twice, and even more so, to spend money replacing stuff that I could have avoided, if I did it properly.
Aside from the cost of the bearings, the job is a royal PITA, not a place I want to revisit anytime soon, if I can avoid it.
It's up to you which way you go.

Might also be a good idea to check the axle endplay as it may give an indication of how the inner stub axle bearings are (theres a long thread about that stuff too)