replacing engine, different year 4Ys, need help

[djshimon]

Thank you Qasual, I will not be re-using any gaskets-I just wanted to show how well the toyota ones are made, although I don't know too much about gaskets to begin with.
Thanks Timsrv for the info and I'm not too bummed because I have the bosch style(square ones) injectors and it seems they really are everywhere. Pretty sure they're called the EV1 style and I've found the connectors new on ebay, 6 for about 20bucks. The question is, do I get used in good condition from the junk yard(5$)- or new, possibly aftermarket ones from ebay? I'll also be sending my injectors to washington to have them cleaned and tested-why not when I'll be doing all this other stuff anyway.

thanks folks for your help, aaron.

[timsrv]

As long as the ones on eBay are OEM or of OEM quality then new would be better. If they are reproductions, then who knows (there seems to be a lot of junk plastic hitting the US market the last few years). Some of it seems great at 1st but breaks down quickly when exposed to heat and/or other elements. Tim

[djshimon]

thanks Tim. I think for the reason of the cheap plastic, i'll try my tonkin toyota or just get some connectors in good shape at the u-pull-it.
i'll keep you all informed as to my progress.

[timsrv]

I know it takes time to scavenge at the salvage yards but I like doing it. If you take the connectors from a Volvo or something else with good engine compartment ventilation they should still be in pretty good shape. I sort of doubt Toyota will sell just the connectors. I'm guessing they would want to sell you that entire sub-harness (which is probably NLA). Even if they have it they will most likely want a lot more than it's worth. Tim

PS: Just remember to bring a scribe or something sharp to pop that metal clip off before trying to remove the connectors.

[zeratool]

I have replaced injector connectors on two vans with Bosch part number:
1 287 013 003-000
you can search by that part number at the autohausaz.com site. What is cool about the OEM Bosch part is that you get the boot and terminals so that you can build the new connector at the end of the wire and not have to splice.
Rob

1287013003


Bosch OEM
Fuel Injector Repair Kit; Terminal Repair Kit For 2 Prong Bosch Injector Type Plug
Miscellaneous usage as required, please verify plug on existing parts. For repair of female harness plug, for attachment to 2 pin male prong fuel injectors and similar 2 pin Bosch connectors. Kit includes 1 terminal with wire spring clip, 1 boot and 2 wire ends (female).

[timsrv]

Thanks Rob for providing that information. I agree genuine Bosch new connectors would be the best. Depending on condition you may be able to pop the old terminals out of the broken connectors and slide them into the new plastic parts (easy). If you cut the old terminal ends off you will need to crimp the new ones using the correct crimping tool. It's a ratcheting type with a die specific to this type terminal (will cost between $50 & $75). Tim

[djshimon]

thank you Rob! that is very promising. I am now leaning towards this new direction. i've soldered electrical components but would rather not trust my abilities within the intake/exhaust manifold heat zone. the aftermarket Bosch(style-made in Taiwan)only have about a 6-inch lead and that won't really get me out of the woods.
-aaron

[djshimon]

Making a bit of progress while I await my delivery of electrical injector connectors and other parts: I removed the clutch and flywheel from my old motor and swapped the flywheel onto the newer motor- My first clutch job! The flywheels use different bolts(bigger on the manual) and the auto has a couple extra spacers but it's pretty easy to figure out.
And I hammered the pilot bearing into the hole-using a 1-1/4" wood dowel that just happened to be sitting on my garage floor and fit the job perfectly-with a tiny bit of drilling out the inside so the force was focused to the outside of the bearing.
One question: Is there a torque spec for the flywheel? I didn't see one in the manual, so do I just use the impact to torque the 6, 17mm bolts down? There is a spec for torque-ing down the clutch disc and cover but that was it.
Here's a pic of my new pilot bearing half-way installed with my DOWEL, THE INSTALLER, and the auto-flywheel is laying on the ground with it's spacers.
And this next pic is with the manual flywheel installed and the auto flywheel on the ground, feeling neglected.

[timsrv]

Looking good! The flywheel to crankshaft bolts torque spec is 61 ft lbs. The pressure plate bolts are 14 ft lbs. Tim

[djshimon]

thanks again Tim!

[djshimon]

So I'm back to the exhaust/intake manifold and i'm ready to install it with a new gasket. I've removed both exhaust manifolds from both engines without breaking the famed exhaust stud. I'm thinking I may be the only one that this engineering flaw won't affect-so I leave it, knowing this engine has at least 100,000 miles on the original manifold and studs and that is close to the lifespan of these bolts. As I begin to torque down the nuts for intake/exhaust, working around all the bolts evenly, when I get to 25ft/lb the classic stud breaks-and I needed to get to 36ft/lbs! I start to think i'll have to buy a whole new gasket because this one's been torque'd a bit already but there's a bit of bolt sticking out... So I put my needle nose vise-grips on it and it moved! So happy, I slowly take the bolt out a quarter turn at a time. I'd already had a new bolt sitting on my table so I installed it and yee-haw! Here's a pic of the busted bolt:



On to the next mission, fixing the busted injector clips-not quite sure if i'll be doing this or taking a chance as my experiments with removing the wires from sample clips does not turn out so well.

[djshimon]

It's alive! I got the engine in, ran it a few seconds without the efi and distributor plugs attached to get the oil flowing and then started her up and running smooth. Except the oil pressure gauge pointed through the roof! and the temperature has not moved from cold either. what did I do wrong? hoping for an easy solution, and that i didn't blow out anything like rings or something. one of the few things i didn't change over was the round thing below the oil filter with a big(2-3 inches)rubber cover on it and a wire coming out. could this be the culprit?
on the +side it was sounding smooth.
****** update to this update***** I looked into what the little round thing was attached to the oil filter and it is the oil pressure gauge/sender. I swapped the old one with the new one and kablamo! my oil pressure went down. But it was too late to try running the van to do a real test, so i'll do that in the morning. Please tell me there is no gasket for that screw on pressure gauge/sender?
Woo-hoo! pretty happy for now.

[djshimon]

So my van is running great and I just want to say thanks to everyone for lending their assistance. I learned a vast amount from this job, and I may have forgotten 90% of it already-but at least i'll retain a few new tools!
A few things to bring it on home:
I wasn't sure about redoing the electrical connectors for the injectors(which had crumbled by the lightest touch) but I did as Zero-tool said and it was easy(easier than removing the engine at least).
Timsrv-thanks a million! the intake manifold swap was not so difficult after all and i'm sure it was better than swapping ECU's and other wiring to make the newer 1989 engine communicate with the 1987 shell.
I had to replace the T.P.S. after it was all finished, but that is a necessary tune-up part after one-hundred thousand miles or so anyways, right?
I even fixed the horrible exhaust leak into the van through the rear door by adjustment of the door catch(striker)- and adding a 90degree elbow to the tailpipe so it faces the side instead of straight back.
Next-adding that 10" pusher fan for cooling the engine compartment on hot days.
thanks again! -aaron

[timsrv]

That's awesome! Always good to hear success stories. Glad we could help. Tim

Here's a link to my project: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...eekend-project

[Vanfan]

I have an 86 4wd le with a very tired engine. It has warn manual lockers, and the body and interior are in pretty good shape. I also own an 87 2wd with a beat up body, but the engine only has 132,000 miles and it has a manual transmission. The 4wd's automatic is acting a bit funny in reverse. My question is: how feasible is it to put the 87 4ye with the stick into the 86 4 wd van? Would it be easier to just swap the engine, and have the tranny rebuilt? I have a mechanic friend in the area who would be willing to do the work, but wasn' t sure if he'd face any compatibility issues. Any insight or information would be greatly appreciated.

[timsrv]

Hi & welcome to TVT! FYI 4wd vans were only available in the model years 87 - 89. Toyota starts manufacturing their next model years in Aug, so anything made between 8/1/86 - 7/31/87 would be an 87. There's a tag on the driver's door jam that states month and year of manufacture, so you should check that for verification. If your registration or title states 86, then you might verify VIN numbers as there may be a discrepancy here (hope not).

As for swapping components around, the most feasible thing here would be to take the engine only from the 2wd and install it into the 4wd. Technically you could take the transmission & drive shaft from the 2wd and put it in the 4wd, but since there's no way to attach the transfer case to the 2wd transmission, that would turn your 4wd into a 2wd . If you're thinking about changing the 4wd from an auto to a manual, you will need the manual transmission from a 4wd van (has a different tail shaft that will accept the transfer case). Even that is a huge job, but at least it's possible and it would remain a 4wd. All things considered, unless you're looking for a major project, it makes more sense to rebuild the auto transmission or replace it with an identical unit. If you stick with an auto transmission, you could upgrade the transfer to a 2 speed (High/Low), but you'll need to get one from a manual 4wd van. At least that upgrade is not as difficult (no clutch pedal or linkage to rig). If you plan on using it in extreme environments that can be a very worthwhile swap. There are other threads on the site where these types of swaps are discussed in more detail. The search feature on the upper right hand side of each forum page should help you locate these threads. Tim

[Vanfan]

Thank you Tim for your prompt response. I checked my tag on the "86", and it turns out that the manufacture date is November 1986, so its actually an '87. This is fantastic news for from what I've been able to gather the engines are perfectly interchangeable. Right?

[timsrv]

All engines from 84 - 89 will interchange but IMO 86 - 89 are slightly more desirable due to a larger displacement. 84 - 85 are have 2.0 liter displacements. 86 - 89 vans have 2.2 liter displacements. Tim

[ShapeShifter]

Im thinking of putting a 4YE from an '86 automatic 2WD in to an '88 5 speed 4X4. Are the output shafts the same length and spline for both engines? Will the 5 speed bell housing mate up to an automatic engine?

[timsrv]

Regarding fit, engines are identical. The only difference for a manual transmission is you will need a pilot bearing in the crank-shaft. The only other difference would be the injectors. You will either need to swap injectors or harness connectors to make them fit. If your donor engine doesn't include injectors, then it's a non-issue. Tim