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Thread: A/C, power steering, and fan (water pump/alternator) belts

  1. #21
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    replacing belts

    Noticed the alternator belt had a longitudinal crack in it, so i bought new alternator and power steering Gates belts from Rock Auto at around $10 a piece. I figured by the looks of it you have to remove the power steering belt in order to get the new alternator belt past it so why not do them both at once. No A/C on this van which I would assume would normally be a 3rd belt.

    Is there a write up on how to remove the old belts and get the new ones on? I tried searching the forum for about 30 mins but couldn't find anything. Also, how do I verify proper tension? Do I need to buy/rent/borrow a tool?

    I haven't ever replaced belts before, but figure I should be able to do it myself with enough direction

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    Re: replacing belts

    This thread and this thread helped me when I went to change belts. Good luck!

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    Re: replacing belts

    thanks for the links. couple quick questions. in this video from your second link, the pulley for the PS belt is the one at the top of the frame correct? I loosen the center bolt and then the long adjustment bolt on top of/behind it?

    as far as the alternator belt it sounds like i just loosen the upper and lower mounting bolts then use the wing nut to adjust tension.

    do i need to remove the fan/fan shroud? is that pretty easy to do? i noticed when trying to get at that upper pulley center bolt it was blocking my socket wrench from getting at it.

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    Re: replacing belts

    tried removing the center bolt on the pulley and it won't budge. i think i rounded one of the corners

    if i can get at it with my impact wrench, i could get it off, but the fan shroud and fan are in the way. i unbolted the shroud but how in the world are you supposed to pull it out??? same goes for the fan. i don't see any way to get them out of that cramped space!

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    Re: replacing belts

    sorry for all the posts - i kept working away at it last night and found a guide by llamavan on removing the passenger seat and engine cover. I was able to lift out the fan shroud and get GREAT access to everything. i got the first belt removed and worked away at the alternator bolt before calling it a night. i inspected the pulley bearing (part number 6302-2RS, thanks tim) and it appears to be in great shape so ill leave it.

    I'll have to go at it again today or tomorrow. couldn't get down there with my impact wrench (electric) it was barely too big! I'll get out my breaker bar and see if i can work that lower alternator bolt loose. also picked up a new M8x40x1.25 bolt for the upper alternator adjustment block thingy as it was just hanging by the wing nut, the previous mounting bolt had fallen out.

    Anyway, i should be able to get it from here. thanks for the guides, those were life savers.

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    Re: replacing belts

    When dealing with the pulley/tensioner bolts on my van, I always find that long box end wrenches are EXTREMELY handy. I think the center tensioner bolts are all 14mm.

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    Re: replacing belts

    Im finding that out

    i installed the new belts today and there was a loud screech when I pressed the gas pedal so I tightened them both down a little more. I noticed the PS belt was really hot for only running about 30 seconds. I started it again after tightening a little more and the PS belt started smoking and melted around the edges a little so I shut it off! I noticed after letting it sit for about 10 mins the PS pulley was still burning hot. What did I do wrong? I didn't notice any melting on the alternator belt so I think that one is ok.... I don't have a belt tensioning tool and haven't done belts before so I feel a little clueless regarding the belt tension and why it's getting so burning hot....

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    Re: replacing belts

    Are you sure the first screeching you heard was coming from the power steering belt and not the other belts you installed? I've never seen belts start smoking but it seems like it's too tight if that's the case. I would just loosen the belts back up and try again. Maybe try installing them and adjusting them one at a time. Good luck! If all else fails make sure you got the right belts. I bought an air conditioning belt from autozone and it was the wrong part number and maybe 3 inches too short.

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    Re: replacing belts

    Yeah the screeching was definitely from the power steering. I found the issue. I'm an idiot....

    I had installed the idler pulley itself correctly but had the plates backwards so it wasn't spinning. the belt was just slipping along through it. no wonder it got so hot.

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    Re: replacing belts

    Just found this thread - and it sounds like the same problem I am having. I am curious if there is a photo you have of the correct way you installed the plates. I replaced the tensioner pulley all together because the old baring was shot. I am also curious if you can tighten the center bolt of the pulley too tight once the tension is set. I have chewed up two belts already .

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    Re: replacing belts

    yeah, the wheel should spin freely. i can take a picture later.

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    Re: replacing belts

    I just had my ps belt melt and snap off mid ride down the freeway. It got very loud when I engaged the rear fan, then I smelt burned rubber and heard it snap off soon after.

    No damage I can see, easy to replace

    Is the upper most pulley supposed to be spinning on all these models? Mine is definitely fixed in place, and hence the source of the overheating and melting.

    I took it apart and it didn't seem to be capable of spinning because of the way the adjuster screw is tapped right into the rod of the pulley.

    Am I missing something?

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    Re: replacing belts

    Betsy - The adjuster pulley should turn free, if it doesn't, its seized and likely the reason your belt melted off.
    My computer is suffering an identity crisis so am unable to attach images, we will have to work with words.

    The adjuster assembly is essentially 4 parts.
    A mounting bracket, a vertical threaded rod, an arbor (the bit the pulley rides on) and the pulley.
    The pulley slides over the arbor and is secured with the washer and a nut, (if the washer is installed backwards, the pulley won't spin -see above)
    The back side of the arbor has a threaded protrusion that the adjusting bolts threads into.
    So the arbor holds the pulley and the adjusting bolt is to set the belt tension (by sliding the arbor up or down)

    Normally you would just remove the nut, remove the pulley and replace and reassemble.
    If you cannot get it apart, it may be better to remove the bracket (as an assembly) then dismantle it on the bench.
    The nut and even the adjusting bolt can be considered sacrificial, if need be, but the arbor is not something easily sourced, so do your best not to damage it.
    Before reassembling, do your self a favour and use never seize on all the threads and a wee bit on the arbor shaft (under the pulley).
    That way, it won't be seized the next time you have to adjust or replace the belt.

    You may want to have a good look at the alternator belt while your in there, turning on the rear heater introduces an increased electrical load, as such, it has no effect on the power steering belt issue, might be coincidence but worth investigating, just in case something else is unhappy in there.

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    Re: replacing belts

    Thanks for the reply!

    I figured something was up with it, it's been this way since I've owned it. I'm surprised the belt lasted that long!

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    Re: replacing belts

    I've tried reassembling the pulley 5 different ways and it always refuses to roll when assembled

    There's the pulley, 2 outer plates,nut, lock washer, and a mini pulley. Does anyone know what order these go on the arbor to spin freely? I feel like I'm missing a piece here.

    Thanks

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    Re: replacing belts

    Hey BetsyBrown, If you want to come over and look at mine you can. Is the bearing seized on yours?
    I can't remember exactly but I think the pulley is between two washers that let it spin freely while being torqued/screwed down.

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    Re: replacing belts

    i think i am missing the bearing. i have the 2 washers, the big pulley, the smaller brass pulley about half the size, nut and lock washer. Nothing is seized, does not make sense how it spins freely with just these parts when the nut squeezes the washers against the mounting plate.

    Id come and check it out @djshimon but i out of town for another 3 weeks

    can anyone explain the right part sequence or find a diagram in the manual. no luck on this end.


    thanks!

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    Re: replacing belts

    Betsy - I cannot find an exploded view of the pulley assembly and its been a good 6yrs since I did mine so things are at best foggy.

    There is a bearing pressed into the middle of the pulley, the assembled bearing and pulley slide onto the arbor (sorry don't remember the order of washers) and is retained on the arbour by the nut. There should be a big cupped washer under the nut but don't remember if the 2nd washer is underneath that or behind.

    It should be easy to figure out as the idle pulley needs to be in line with the pump pulley, if the washers are wrong, you should be able to see the belt deflecting.
    The belt has to run in a straight line (or it will self-destruct) so that should be your guideline. Once you have everything dialled in, make sure the pulley still spins free of the bracket (belt not installed).

    What parts did you buy to repair the pulley?
    Unless you go to the dealer to get the assembly, you will likely have to press out the old bearing (from the pulley), match it up at the local bearing store, then press the new one back into the pulley.

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    Re: replacing belts

    Thanks for the explaination, I am definitely missing the bearing. Can I replace myself? Found a shop that will press it nearby if needed.

    Thanks!

  20. #40
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    Re: replacing belts

    It's easy enough to replace yourself, without pictures or a visual aid handy I'm not sure exactly which bearing you're missing, but when my idler pulley bearing seized I was able to replace it a "6302-2RS" spec bearing.

    If the bearing is missing, just clean up the inside of the pulley, line the new bearing up on top of the pulley and use a socket that's as close to the size of the outer race as you can get and help it in with a hammer, no need to outsource something like this. I imagine using a flat piece of wood would also work in lieu of the socket.

    Here was a thread that helped me when I was in a similar spot a while back. Good luck!

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