How I fixed my broken horn

[ToyotaVanNut]

Hi everyone!

I did not see this problem yet, so I thought I would ask/post!

I would say that 50% of the time, my horn works, but 50% not. (And more so not!) Now that I think about it, it doesn't work when I want it to enough!

I was just wondering if anyone experienced anything like this or had any idea as to how to fix/repair it, or what it could be? I am wondering if something is dirty inside on the steering wheel making the contact only happen once in a while.

Any place to start is very greatly appreciated!!

[timsrv]

There's a slip ring and contact (brush) under the steering wheel. Most likely the slip ring is bent, the brush is worn out or both. If you pull the steering wheel it will be pretty self explanatory. The brush is mounted on a spring and should be about 1/2" long. After a while they get worn down to the spring and the horn then becomes intermittent. Tim

[AnotherUser]

This was done on a 1986 2WD Van

Over the last few years my horn has intermittently worked, some days I'm able to use it and others not at all. Recently it has stopped working all together.

Inside your steering column there is a metal ring that comes in contact with a spring loaded contact point. That contact point gets worn down and it no longer touches the metal ring, preventing the horn from working.

Rather than trying to get a new contact point, I decided to raise the metal ring.

How to get in there:

Directly under the steering wheel on the main steering wheel unit is one phillips screw in the center, remove this



Remove the center of the steering wheel



Disconnect wire to completely remove the center pad



Mark a line on the top of the bolt and on the metal plate above it so you can put it back on straight

This bolt is a 19mm. Loosen it until it is almost off, but still keep the bolt on. In order to get your steering wheel off you will need to use a lot of force. Hit it from behind as hard as you can while moving around, then start tugging from the front as hard as you can. It might not seem like it will come off, but eventually it should break free and because the bolt is still partially on it won't slam your face.



The contact point that wears down




Remove the metal ring from the back of the steering wheel



At this point you should clean the ring if there is any build up or a rough line around the edge by lightly sanding it.

To raise the ring high enough to touch the contact point I used a card the same thickness as a standard credit credit.

Trace and cut out







That's it. Reinstall everything the way it came off.

It's important to note that before you test it, your steering wheel bolt should be fully tightened to get the metal ring close to the contact point. Also, the center pad needs to be reinstalled back into the metal brackets before the horn will work. Just plugging in the wire and testing it won't work, it needs to be touching the metal brackets.

[JDM VANMAN]

Nice write up and illustrations!!

Thank you for posting it step by step form

JDM

[Dirtlivingston]

Perfect

[Dogfish]

Perfect

Nice fix..!

For those that don't have CC material, it can be made by saving supermarket plastic bags and "ironing" them to the thickness you desire. Like this:

http://www.relevedesign.com/how-to-fuse-plastic-bags/

Google "iron plastic bags" for tons of hits.

I keep this in mind for washers bushings and spacers. (Yes, I'm a cheap bastard...)

-Jim

[Grappler]

<sub>I had this same issue and finally got around to fixing it, though using a slightly different approach.

The part at issue for me was the contact itself rather than the ring. So I uncreatively bought a new one.

It's toyota part number 84312-20011, and about 6-7 bucks. Fairly straightforward install with one annoyingly tiny C-clip. As shown in the photo, when these things wear down they ... really really wear down!</sub>

[AnotherUser]

<sub>I had this same issue and finally got around to fixing it, though using a slightly different approach.

The part at issue for me was the contact itself rather than the ring. So I uncreatively bought a new one.

It's toyota part number 84312-20011, and about 6-7 bucks. Fairly straightforward install with one annoyingly tiny C-clip. As shown in the photo, when these things wear down they ... really really wear down!</sub>

The ring on mine was fine, but it was the contact point that was worn down.

Mine was about as worn down as yours, but rather than replace it, I raised the metal plate to fill in the gap missing from the contact point. The main reason why I did this was because I wanted a quick fix, rather than waiting for parts.

This worked for about a year, but now the contact point is almost completely gone and my horn no longer works.

So I will be ordering a contact pin off eBay for $6.50 https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-TOYOTA-HORN-CONTACT-PLATE-OEM-84312-20011-/321670894574

If you don't want to buy a contact point, you can also use a 22 bullet casing that is placed over the old contact point. I don't know how long this would last though

How hard was it to get access to the c-clip? What did you have to remove to get to it? Thanks

[MssnBlu]

Just did the horn fix. Metal ring was not touching contact point. Took the ring off using instructions above (thank you for the great write up). Used a hot glue gun to create a small raised bead for ring to sit on. Re-installed everything. Glue can be peeled off later if problem re-develops. For now horn works great.

[trestlehed]

Several years ago my '87 Toy pickup had this problem.

A thread on one of the Toy Truck websites had a quick fix: Use a used .22 caliber shell.
Just place it over the top of the horn contact spring pin and you're good to go.

I didn't do this. I just bought the new part from Toyota.

Hope this helps somebody.

[Andywear]

well, glad this thread existed. having same intermittent issue, and then continuing to no horn.

pulled my steering wheel off, LiteAce van,
Was hoping cleaning the contacts with sandpaper would do the trick. I check the continuity only after the use of the sandpaper, was good.






Adding the thin plastic spacer was a no go for me, the plate is not screwed in, I was too concerned if I pried it off the plastic tabs that hold it in place would break and not hold it back in there. I could look for some screws to secure it but didn't.





I fiddled with the punch looking piece that has the spring on it, I could not get it out so I just cleaned all the copper or brass pieces and reinstalled and the horn is working.... for now.



If it does it again will try the .22 casing.

[89van]

So, with some time on my hands finally I decided to give this a shot since JDM had confirmed my intermittent horn issue. Down to the "yank the darn steering wheel off" step; I ain't the strongest man alive but it does seem to be putting up a darn good fight! Should also consider cleaning under the horn pad since 30+ years of crud have accumulated under there, deciding on this...

[Burntboot]

There's a method for that.

First put the nut back on the top of the shaft (this step saves a trip to emergency to repair the broken nose that can occur)

With the nut on the shaft pull up on one side of the steering wheel and whack the back of the opposite side of the wheel.
For the whacking portion, you can use your hand but I find a rubber hammer hurts less (and it may take more than one hit)
Oh, and it helps if you orient the wheel so the spoke that you'll be whacking the back of, isn't lined up with the switch stalks.

[bigtone23]

Discovered my horn wasn't working 2 weeks ago when I was wanting to let someone know they cut me off in a turn!
Well, I preemptively ordered that 84312-20011 brass pin ($11 shipped on ebay), assuming it was probably fully worn down from 36 years of use.
Got the wheel off, saw that the old pin was very worn down, installed the new pin, cleaned up the contact ring as well as all the accumulation under the horn pad.
Works great!
Love this site.

[busking]

My problem was simpler on why my horn didn't work. But being a novice, it still too me a 2-3 hours to figure it out but I got the horn working great now. I was uneasy w/o a working horn driving.

I found out the previous owner disconnected the wire from the contact. I found out why b/c once I connected the wire, and the metal plate on the steering wheel pad touched the steering wheel plate, the horn was on and coudn't be turned off! After much trial and error, I figured that the two contacts on the steering wheel plate cannot touch the steering wheel plate. If they are in contact, the horn will sound. So, I used a set a plyers to bend the anchor for that one screw that keeps the steering wheel pad on the steering wheel. I found out that I needed a longer screw b/c the prevouis owner just used a short screw to keep the steering wheel pad on the steering wheel (that single, critical screw/anchor mentioned by others above). Once I rescrewed the steering pad to the steering wheel, WITHOUT the two contact points touching the steering wheel, there was no horn sound, unless I pushed on the steering wheel pad downward onto the wheel, as normal operation. Then, the horn sounded every time. Problem solved!

I know what I say may not make much sense. But, I didn't take any photos and at this point don't have the energy to disassemble something that works again! But, hopefully you can use the photos above to help, if you are having the same problem as me. My van is only 153,000 miles (an '85), so I don't think my golden pin or the golden round plate is worn out yet.