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Thread: Check Engine light. Codes 4 and 11.

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  1. #1
    Van Enthusiast mahleek87's Avatar
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    Check Engine light. Codes 4 and 11.

    Today my check engine light came on in my 86 toyota van while driving but then it went away. Later on I noticed that It came on again while I was driving when I hit the gas while running and got no power but then eventually the power caught up and resulted in a power surge. The van is running kinda roughy. Not too bad but the check engine light comes and goes. Where should I start? I checked the codes and got codes 4 and 11. I find the owners manual so I hope someone can look that up for me and give me some decent advice on what to do.

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    Van Fan JRSJ's Avatar
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    Re: Check Engine light. Codes 4 and 11.

    Here ya go

    Code 4 / Water temp sensor / may be the coolant temperature sensor circuit OR the sensor itself.

    Code 11 / Switch / air conditioner switch, TPS circuit, TPS, or neutral start switch.

    (I'll wager your TPS is faulty for code 11.)


    Here is the .PDF file for your codes -- Print it out and keep it in your van

  3. #3
    Van Enthusiast mahleek87's Avatar
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    Re: Check Engine light. Codes 4 and 11.

    Where is the coolant temperature sensor circuit located? Or the TPS circuit? Thanks for the help.

  4. #4
    Van Fan JRSJ's Avatar
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    Re: Check Engine light. Codes 4 and 11.

    Quote Originally Posted by mahleek87 View Post
    Where is the coolant temperature sensor circuit located? Or the TPS circuit? Thanks for the help.
    The circuit is the electrical connection between the sensors and ECU. Anywhere along that circuit could be an electrical short (chaffed/melted wires, loose connections etc.) I'd start investigating by checking the sensors themselves. The actual location of the Coolant Temperature Sensor is on the radiator fill neck. (I'll take a picture of it tomorrow to show you.)

    The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is a black plastic box located on the rear side of the throttle body manifold. Removal of the throttle body is required to gain access to that sensor. You will also need a new throttle body gasket to replace the old one. Tim has posted a video on how to calibrate a TPS properly here.

    That would be a good starting point -- I wouldn't be surprised if new sensors were all your van needed.

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    Van Fan JRSJ's Avatar
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    Re: Check Engine light. Codes 4 and 11.



    As promised, here is the picture showing the location of the coolant temp sensor. I believe it takes a 19mm deep socket or wrench to remove.

    JRSJ

    (ps. mods, if there is any issue with putting TVT on images I contribute with, please PM me. Just trying to give back to the community.)
    Last edited by JRSJ; 08-13-2011 at 02:28 AM.

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    Re: Check Engine light. Codes 4 and 11.

    Quote Originally Posted by JRSJ View Post
    (ps. mods, if there is any issue with putting TVT on images I contribute with, please PM me. Just trying to give back to the community.)
    As far as I'm concerned it's awesome. Thanks for your great responses (makes my job easier). I also like the way JRSJ Photos display in the forum. Nice website by the way. Tim

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    Code 4 Code 11

    Hey guys -

    first off I have dug through and read everything above - Im kind of wanting some more opinions and wisdom though.

    Brand new owner of an 87 4wd automatic, bought it 2 days ago. Im not a mechanic nor do I have much experience with internal combustion engines, I did do some electric conversions on VW's though in the past. Thats about it for my mechanical experience.

    Thank you guys for your forum, I have already learned so much.

    My wife and I fell in love with this van when we saw it for sale, decided to get rid of the Sequoia for something that represented us a little more accurately =). My wife went and bought it, drove it around for a day without a problem (aside from it taking 5 minutes to start from cold, and a while to warm up). She took off on a trip so I was left with the van today.

    Factoids for context:

    It took me 15 minutes to get the thing started today, tried cycling the fuel pump (turning the key to on or start 3 times). It was parked on a steep hill so I thought that might have some role in it.

    Researched how to get error codes from the ECU, code 4 and 11. Now, the guy I bought it from said it needed a new ECU, he thought the fuel pump was bad, but said he had it tested and the pressure was fine, so chalked it up to an ECU, which he had lying around. I put in the other ECU (he graciously let me have) and one of the vacuum valves kept clicking on and off, and the van would not start. Put the old one back in. It started. I don't think the ECU is an issue.

    I decided to load the kids up to buy a new guinea pig from the pet store. Along the way the van completely turned off. We pulled over, it took a few attempts but it started back up, idling very low around 500-600. I test drove it around and it kept losing power. It would drive great sometimes for about 20 seconds, and then the next second I couldn't get it to shift, totally lagging and stalling, sounded like the throttle being completely turned off and back on again. Again - it would drive great for a moment, then stalling / not shifting with it seeming like the throttle was off / on.

    We managed to get it home, way back up the hill (going about 15 mph and the engine sounding LOUD). I can't even determine where to start, it felt like the vacuum system losing vacuum, but I checked all the lines and could not find an issue. Also, yes the car had gas.

    I know error 11 is not that bad, but could the error code 4 be the most of it? For the most part, Im thinking :

    #1 - Fix the water temp sensor issue.
    if #1 does not resolve investigate the fuel pump and fuel filter.
    If that does not work?

    Thanks guys. Really want to get this thing running well.

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    Re: Code 4 Code 11

    Pretty sure I found the main issue which seems to be a short in one of the harnesses going to the ECU. Looks like someone had done some work there. While I have the van running, if I move the harness in question just a bit, I can hear one of the VSV valves click, and the motor bogs down / dies. Hopefully redoing these wires will fix the main problem, don't know if it is the also the cause of error 4 and 11. Picking up a new multimeter to test the ECU and sensors.

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    Re: Code 4 Code 11

    Status update:

    Replaced TPS sensor, this cleared up error code 11. I put a new water temperature thermistor in (other one had no continuity, and new one tested good), unhooked battery, tested codes again, still code 4. Checked the new temperature thermistor and it checked out bad. Weird. Will put another one in.

    Since the van still drives like crap, Ive been trying to test anything and everything I can, replaced the ignition coil (without taking off the distributor, which is painful but I don't have a timing light yet.) because the secondary coil had no continuity / resistance. Put it back together, it started up after a minute of trying, which is an improvement.

    When I first start the van It barely has any power, idles sometimes at 750 which it should but sometimes at about 1100. Giving it gas makes it sound like its going to die until its warmed up. It will still die on me while driving, starts dropping power intermittently. Shuts off sometimes while driving.

    If I tap on the outside of the van where the ECU is while its running, it will shut off. Could not find a short in the harness. Tested with other ECU and it does the same thing. Tested all voltage / resistance at every ECU port. Im at a loss.

  10. #10
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    Re: Code 4 Code 11

    Hey Dob,
    Did you ever figure out your problem? I'm having a somewhat similar bogging/rough running when warmed up and Code 4 when I wiggle the wires to the sensor or cold start. I'm gonna check continuity today but I think it's in the wiring right at those sensors.

  11. 11-08-2016, 11:21 AM

    Reason
    off topic and moved

  12. #12
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    Weird starting issue - possibly a vacuum leak?

    Hello all,

    So since I bought my van back in November, it's had an issue where when I first start when the engine is cold, it putters out and dies. I'll then have to start it again, anywhere up to a maximum of four times if it's really cold outside. I haven't thought much of it and have marked it off as a nuisance while I fixed other problems, but now I have time and money to address the problem (hopefully).

    Beyond this, after I've driven around for a while then park the van for a bit (for like an hour or so), when I come back to it and start it again it will start but seems a little weak and kind of putters. If I start to drive right away it will struggle a bit but eventually "come-to" and be back to normal. The same will happen if I sit and let it idle for a while until it stops the puttering.

    So my question is, what do you all think this is? I think it's likely a vacuum leak, but am not sure. I would appreciate y'alls advice as you are true experts! Thanks!

  13. #13
    Van Enthusiast Cali Cruiser's Avatar
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    Re: Weird starting issue - possibly a vacuum leak?

    There are several things that it could be, but here are a couple of quick and easy things to do first.

    Check your cold-start injector. Remove it, clean it, and test it to confirm it is working properly.
    Check your air intake hose for cracks, rips, or damage of any kind.
    Replace your fuel filter. If you haven't changed it, I bet the person you bought the van from didn't either.
    A full tune up might be a good idea. I suggest spending a few extra bucks for iridium spark plugs.

    How many miles are on your van?

  14. #14
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    Re: Weird starting issue - possibly a vacuum leak?

    Always check for stored codes
    Always diagnose problems prior to doing other maintenance/repairs

    CC's list is a good start, but you still need to know if the computer has logged any faults.

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    Re: Weird starting issue - possibly a vacuum leak?

    Van has 125,000 miles on it.

    I checked the codes and observed the following, would they have anything to do with it?

    I read the codes by shorting the check engine connector and got what I think are two codes. I pulled the code number 4 and code number 11.

    For code number 4, the manual says that it's an open or short circuit in water temperature sensor signal.

    For code number 11 , the manual says that "Air conditioner switch ON, idle switch OFF or shift position in any other position other than P or N range during diagnosis check." Which the van was in P when I did the check. The air conditioner is disconnected (the belt is disconnected), so would that have something to do with this code (code number 11, that is)?

    I also recently replaced the air intake hose (the big one right on top under the driver seat), so that doesn't seem to be my problem.

    Thanks!

    Here's a PDF of the diagnostic codes:
    86 - 87 Diagnostic Codes.pdf
    Last edited by tennesseetoyota; 04-09-2018 at 05:16 PM.

  16. #16
    Van Enthusiast VanCo's Avatar
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    Re: Weird starting issue - possibly a vacuum leak?

    A bad water temp sensor (or messed up sensor plug wiring) would explain your symptoms.

    Did you touch the throttle at all while reading the codes? If you take it off idle while the check engine connector is connected it can throw a false 11. If not there is a lot on this forum about the 11 code.
    Last edited by llamavan; 11-03-2018 at 01:19 PM. Reason: link removed after thread merge

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    Issues starting when warm

    Hello all! Hope you are well.

    After figuring out that the rough start from cold issue was due to one wire being completely disconnected (see below), I have resolved codes 4 and 11 (have driven around 100 miles, codes aren't coming back ).

    Name:  van.jpg
Views: 1409
Size:  92.5 KB
    Red arrow points to wire that was disconnected. Where the wire connects is circled in red. It's just kind of sitting in there right now. Is there a sensor that's supposed to go there?

    Now I am facing the issue that the van has trouble starting after I have driven it around for a while and then parked it for > 15 minutes. It struggles and idles rough for a minute, then if I take off and give it gas I hear a whooshing sound and the van is back to normal.

    Any ideas what this might be?

    Thanks!

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