If you're eating Denso's then CS-144 is the way to go. Tim
If you're eating Denso's then CS-144 is the way to go
Originally Posted by RawbSpear
is it possible to install this 250amp alternator with the engine in?
Sure, at least in a 2wd. I just did it with the engine out because the engine was already out. With the PDF file I provided (page 1 of this thread) you can have the bracket pre-fabricated, then it's just a bolt-in application. I'm sure it can also be done in a 4wd, but you might need to drop the front drive shaft and install from underneath. You will also need to modify the wires and get a longer belt (info provided on page 1). Tim
Super stoked about this. I believe its a 140amp Delco Remy. going to get a bracket made tomorrow
Im hoping I dont need to convert my wiring
Keep in mind the vans wiring is only capable of ~70A. Alternator output will depend on demand, and most of the time it will be under 50A. However.........in the event of a short circuit or otherwise high demand, the alternator will be capable of about 2X the max capacity of the circuit. The result could be melted fusible links and/or wire. It's highly recommended you upgrade the cable and put some sort of fusible link/breaker in the circuit that will open if the amperage exceeds the rated capacity of the cable. Tim
what did you end up doing for the alternator plug?
Found this though
http://store.alternatorparts.com/partno461804.aspx
Yes, that should work. If you don't want to spend that much $$$ on the adapter harness you can cut the wires on the van harness and wire them to one of THESE.
Yellow "L" wire on the van harness goes to the Brn/Red "L" wire on the CS harness
Blk/Yel "IG" wire on the van harness goes to the Brn "F" wire on the CS connector
White "S" wire on the van harness goes to the Red "S" wire on the CS connector
Don't worry about the Wht "P" wire on the CS connector. It's my understanding that wire is used to signal tachometers on diesel engines and is not used on gasoline engines.
From what I understand the CS alternator can also be made to operate with a single wire (see pics below). This is known as the "one wire GM mod". Other than the big output wire, you simply take the Black/Yel "IG" wire from the van harness and hook it to the CS-144 "L" terminal. This should excite the field on the CS and it should put out ~ 14.5V.
If you look closely at the female plug on the CS-144 alternator you will see letter designations for terminal positions.
This picture shows this position on the CS-144 connector. Put the black/yellow "IG" wire from the van harness here.
Basically where I'm at right now. I think it's a 140amp
Hey Tim. Can you post a link of where you purchased your alternator. I followed the link for the power bastards alternator and it does not fit. I see your alt has only 2 mounting posts like the original. Mine has 3.
I got mine from alternatorparts.com: https://alternatorparts.com/alternat...ed-welder.html. I got the 250A version. The offset on the alternator mount was incorrect, so I fabbed my own mount (see page 1 this thread) I posted a PDF of a dimensional sketch so it can be duplicated. Also, the alternator came with a v-belt pulley, so I had to ask alternatorparts.com for a serpentine pulley (which they sent to me at no extra charge). Tim
thanks for the reply. So in the link you shared. I see different amp ratings. You got the 250 . So it is the most expensive one they offer. So I'm assuming any one of these will fit because they all share same housing? Or do you have to tell them to supply the correct housing?
If you're planning on welding, then one of those in my link might be a good choice. If you're not planning on welding, then you won't need to spend that much money. If you simply want a tough alternator with no special features, then you can save by purchasing a std cs-144 from anywhere (even a salvage yard). The most common housing for cs-144 (180º mounts) is the one that works for us, but there are others.........so if you're ordering without pics, be sure to specify you want the housing with the mounts 180º apart. Here's what pops-up when you do an eBay search: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...LH_TitleDesc=0 (most of these will work).
As far as saving money goes, even if you're welding, you can still get a std salvage yard cs-144, then replace the diodes with the non-avalanche type, then you can cut the wire to the internal regulator and bring both sides of it out of the case (this is what you use to switch the welder on/off).
When I purchased mine from alternatorparts.com, I did so out of convenience and I liked the idea of the 2nd external diode block. In hind sight, I would probably not do that again. These are tough alternators, and even without that external diode block I doubt I'd burn it out. The other thing is the output post. That external diode block makes the alternator a bit more vulnerable and requires the output post to be extended. With 250A I need to run some mega monster cable and it needs to be very tight. The extended stud is definitely the weak link. If/when it breaks or becomes an issue, I'm going to remove that 2nd diode block and go back to using only the one inside the case. Tim
PS: You can also weld with 140A, I just wanted overkill so that's why I went with 250A.
I'm Not welding. But I will be running a sound system. That's the only reason for upgrade. I will be running about 2600 watts true.rms. so yes a 250 is perfect. I also will be using 0/2 welding cable for my power and ground. Also doing big three upgrade. This includes stock ground wire alternator to battery and alternator to chasis. All 0/2 welding wire. So I purchased the alternator from the link provided. Please delete this link. ASAP. It cost me $350. That powerbastards alternator will NOT fit. Instead of that link please replace with the info you provided me please. If that was done in the first place I wouldn't be out money and half a day trying to get that sucker in. LoL. I actually got it in finally. But can't use tensioner for alternator. So it sits squished against the motor block in place with the bottom bracket only. I used the original belt by taking off the pulley while installed to bottom (custom bracket) following your PDF link for alternator bracket. . It works but then after turning the car on for about 10 min ,it started squeeling. Guess I need to use the tensioner. But I can't because the housing on this alternator is huge and bulky. So the bracket can't even be used. You actually have to remove it to fit this Alternator. So I will remove it tomorrow and order your exact one. As long as it fits just like yours did. Would have helped knowing that I needed a 180° housing. I don't think that information was mentioned in thread. Please add info. Very helpful. Critical. Oh also correct me if I'm wrong but did you have to flip your alternator tensioner bracket for your upgraded alternator install. Looks to me like you did? Thanks Tim. I'm glad for this group I will be donating asap . Well as soon as I fix my van. Daily driver kids school groceries etc. Need to fix by 2 weeks
I would like to know where this link you are mentioning is located. If I'm made aware of anything misleading I will take appropriate action to correct it. Please PM me a link to that post and I'll address it.
I did not flip my tensioner bracket. I did however bend it slightly in a vice to line-up with the new alternator. I got rid of the old tensioner parts and simply put a bolt and washer through the bracket slot into the alternator. Instead of using the adjustment screw (old way) I use a pry-bar then tighten the bolt when tension is correct. Tim
Did you have to upgrade the fusible link wire when doing the alternator upgrade? Or do you just connect the new higher rating fuse directly in place of the fusible link? If so, does it matter the fuse rating? I mean how high can I go for fuse rating?I put a Delco-Remy CS-144 250A alternator in my van. I use it to power my 2000w inverter and my welder. It's pretty amazing what this thing can power up. I was running my 120v air compressor off it the other day and it totally kicks ass! My inverter draws 140A (about 1800w) when my air compressor kicks in. Here are some pictures of the unit and the mount bracket I fabricated. BTW, the stock belt was too small so I moved up to a Gates #K050330. So far I'm very happy with the set-up. Tim
Yes, you will need to upgrade the cable (both positive and negative) and also the fusible link. I would recommend leaving the old fusible links intact because they are still necessary to distribute power to the van's electrical system. However, I would only hook-up the new heavier cable between the battery and the alternator (just eliminate the section of old cable that was used between the alternator and the plus box). Then, for any heavy loads, power these up directly from the battery using appropriately sized cables and fuses. If you want these devices to be switched by ignition, use an appropriately sized continuous duty solenoid and use an ignition circuit to trigger the coil.
Regarding wire size and fuses between alternator and battery, what you need to will depend on the output of the alternator. If the alternator is a 140A unit, then you will need 2 GA and it should be fused for 150A. If you're using a 250A unit then you will need 2/0 GA and it should be fused for 275A. If your alternator has a different output, just make sure the wire is capable of handling a sustained max output and use a fuse slightly above max rating of alternator but less than max capacity of wire. If you think you will be operating close to max ratings, I would recommend slow blow fuses. Here's some links to the products I would recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...=an+fuse+block
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...MYCRNHGRH&th=1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mersen-Ferra...UAAOSwcgNZC7LJ
There are other ways of fusing, and some are superior, but the above is adequate and affordable. Regarding hook-ups, be sure you use high quality welding cable (copper) and use the proper tools to crimp on the eyes. If you don't have a large crimping tool, Chinese hydraulic crimpers can be found on Amazon for ~$75. I have purchased a couple sets of these and have been very impressed with their performance and quality of crimps. Tim
Banned
Is there a recommended alternator for a standard replacement?
I am looking around an seeing ones like the "Ultima 70 Amp Alternator - Remanufactured (R111410A)" from O’Reilly Auto Parts for around $160 without core.
Seems like I have read in the past about staying away from certain alternators
Summit claims to have the Denso rebuilds for $113.99 with free shipping. They will add a $30 core charge, but that's still cheaper:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...hoCaIoQAvD_BwE
Because Denso discontinued these, and knowing Summit will usually just have the manufacturer drop ship, I suspect they will flake after they take your money and try to substitute something else. Good luck! Tim
How important do you think it is to have Denso over other brands?
RockAuto has the following listed (1986):
ACDELCO 3341694 {#19134687} Professional; Remanufactured; 70 Amp $87
PURE ENERGY 14682 Remanufactured $92
POWER SELECT 14679N {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers $115
This has been discussed a few times already, but I'll explain again. The design of our original alternator is not the greatest. However, Denso, a Japanese company, builds these to exacting specifications and the quality of internal parts and workmanship is top notch. Due to that they perform well and tend to last ~100 - 150K miles. When they fail many of these original alternators become cores for companies that remanufacture alternators. They repair/rebuild them and sell as "remanufactured" units. When Denso does it the end product rivals the quality of a new alternator and will generally last as long as the original one did. When other companies do it they may or may not use quality parts and/or workmanship (more profit margin to use cheap parts and labor). Due to this, it's not uncommon to see inexpensive "remanufactured" units only last 10 - 20K miles.
Of course not all remanufacturers are the same. Some are going to be better than others. It's my guess that the cheap ones won't hold-up well but the more expensive ones will likely last a bit longer. Which ones are the best? I don't know (only time will tell). Here's a thread with more information:
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...lternator-woes
Reply With Quote_(edited)_(edited)_CS144_harness.jpg)
