I just ordered 2 of them, theres 4 left in the nation, according to the Toyota Parts guy my son is dealing with.
JDM
I just ordered 2 of them, theres 4 left in the nation, according to the Toyota Parts guy my son is dealing with.
JDM
Just an update on my head replacement. Moved forward this weekend on re-assembly.
Pretty straight forward except for one issue.
I torqued the head bolts as per spec and sequence. Went ahead and completed installation of intake manifold both top and bottom, all hoses, vac lines and such.
Went back a day later to put on the valve cover and decided to check the torque one more time. Some of the bolts required more to make them click. Now I am concerned that I may have over torqued them if the wrench was out of cal.
I am going out today to purchase a new torque wrench to recheck the numbers.
My question is if I did over torque any of the bolts should I pull them back to the correct value or leave them alone.
Or does it depend how much it may be over torqued.
Any feed back on this would be helpful. I will attempt to try the new one tonight.
Having a torque wrench out-of-spec can be a big problem. If you think that may have happened, and you think they are not torqued properly, then I think it would be a good idea to go back and torque again. I would probably loosen them all ~Ό turn, then retorque using the values and sequence in the manual. After they are torqued, go back over them all several more times (in sequence) because tightening other bolts will slightly compress the gasket and cause the torque on some of the previously tightened bolts to relax a bit. When you get to the point where all bolts stop moving you are done. I suppose you could go back the next day to check again, but I never do. Once it's done I never think about it again. Good luck! Tim
Thanks Tim:
OK, Did not want to bring them back out and not knowing I could bring them back in.
I will loosen them 1/4 turn and do over.
Update: I just got the following message from Amazon:
Due to a lack of availability, we will not be able to obtain the following item from your order. We've canceled the item and apologize for the inconvenience. If you see a charge for the canceled item, we will refund you within 1-2 business days. If you are still interested in purchasing this item, it may be available from other sellers. Please visit the detail page for this item below.
Another Wow!
An FYI
I went out last night and picked up one of those cool digital torque wrench. A bit pricy, but I just cannot afford any more time and I want it right.
So I get home and run out the garage, turn on the lights, open the box and dug in. Certification calibration docs were the first to come out.
Well this thing has on it all kinds of goodies on it including angle. Not sure what I would do with that.
Anyway, I turned it on and set it for 65lb and gave it a whirl.
Well, according to this I was 10 lb too low. And I was concerned I may be pulling too hard! Man, 65lb is nothing to sneeze at. So I think I may be OK just to advance the torque on the rest of these, however the issue is I am limited now with the top portion of the intake already in and get get the wrench in that side. Plus, I am assuming, that all my torque measurements are not right, including the exhaust manifold . Damn, now I will have to remove that portion and do them all over again. If I do, do you think I can re-use the gasket between the top and bottom intake manifolds? I don't have another one.
Since these gaskets are new, assuming you didn't use any additional gasket sealer, if you can remove without separating layers and/or tearing them I would re-use. I wouldn't try that on a head gasket, but I would think you could get away with it on the intake and exhaust gaskets. Tim
PS: If you're removing any gaskets that are symmetrical, make sure to orient them exactly the same as before when reinstalling.
FYI
Started as if she was never taken apart. Idle was real high but very smooth. Some how the linkage for the accelerator pedal got real long and caused the mix control to but up away from the fuel stop. I looked at it and it was fine. I never touched that part this go around anyway. I had to finally back off on the adjustment screw all the way to the end I it just made the stop. There is no way the cable got longer while it was sitting for 6 weeks.
Except for some idle issues it runs great. Thanks to all of your support.
Couple of questions:
Why is there coolant going through the Mixture control unit? I find this odd.
What does the TPS really do? The .28 calibration must be to bring that pin down when idling, I think.
Anyway, if anyone has any input on this. I am considering building a second brain that will cure all the little bugs. I am just one of those guys that likes things perfect.
Again, thanks to all
MT
Congrats on getting it running!
If you're referring to the throttle body as the mixture control unit, coolant is routed through there as to prevent icing and freeze-up issues if/when you're operating the van in a cold climate.
The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) does exactly as the name suggests. It merely monitors the position of the throttle and feeds that info to the ECU. The ECU uses that information to adjust mix and activate the electronic advance. Making that initial adjustment gives it a starting point (so it can accurately tell the ECU where the throttle is at). Tim
Excellent:
OK got that covered. One thing though I wanted to mention. After the engine started I kept an eye on the water with the radiator cap removed and still noticed some bubbles. After putting the head on and before the rockers went back I took a 100 lb compressor and ran that into each cylinder one at a time while viewing the radiator cap. I did that for each cylinder. Not one bubbles.
After seeing the bubbles with the engine running raised my eyebrows. So I pulled out my trusty Head tester. This is the unit that you add that blue solution to and stick it in the radiator cap hole. I started the engine, remove a little water so I would not suck it up and performed the test. Squeezed the ball, forced air through the device then let it go and sucked the gases in the water system. Last time I did this it turned a yellow green immedeatly . This time it just stayed blue. I repeated this several times with never seeing any change in the blue which told me there were no bad crap in the air of the cooling system. Big change from before. So the question is why are there still some air bubbles? Water temperature hangs in at 180 +- maybe 10deg. And it is hotter then hell here in Florida. No water in the oil and engine runs like a top.
Any thoughts as to where the air bubbles may be coming from?
Put about 100 miles on her and she runs great. Go figure.
OH yeah, here is what it looked like just before I connect the air filter elbow
I wouldn't worry about the air bubbles unless you are also having other issues. When the engine runs there are vibrations that will dislodge small bubbles that were trapped in various nooks and crannies inside your water jacket. Tim
Nice job on the engine. I like to keep mine clean like that too. Tim
Do people recommend getting the timing chain replaced when doing the head gasket? van has 205k miles, timing chain may be original. If so, is after market ok for this?
Because these are "old school" engines without overhead cams, the timing gears/chain does not need to be messed with to replace a head gasket. That being said, 200 k + miles is starting to "get up there" and if I had to do a head gasket on one with this many miles I'd most likely pull the entire engine and do much more (including the timing set). 200 k miles isn't extreme though, so if you decide to chance it, I could also understand that approach. It basically boils down to you, your time, your budget, and your future plans/goals for the van.
If you do replace the timing set, you should read the following post before doing so: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...2491#post12491. Good luck. Tim
Thanks Tim for the info. I have one question before ordering the valve grind gasket set. I have a 3y and as mentioned earlier in this thread the part number for that is 04112-73054. When searching for my van on toyotapartsdeal I came across 04112-73010 which says it was replaced by 04112-73054. The weird thing is that the part that replaced it 73054 is discontinued yet the original part 73010 is showing as available. Am I ordering the right part for my 3y with 04112-73010? I searched this forum for part number 04112-73054 and found nothing.
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...0=YR27LV-MREA)
Toyota has a habit of changing part numbers. I would trust ToyotaPartsDeal as they are more up to date on these changes. If they say it's for a 3Y, then it should work. The only thing I'd worry about is that you are in the state of California and according to ToyotaPartsDeal this gasket set can cause reproductive harm to CA residents . Tim
Well, crap. Toyotapartsdeal.com voided my order for the gasket set that showed available on the website. Next best gasket kit? Fel pro?
That sucks. You could also try the 4y kit. I think everything should work except the plenum gasket and maybe the intake/exhaust gaskets. You might also try to order just the head gasket, then use aftermarket on everything else.
If you do try aftermarket (Felpro or whatever) please take pics and document anything that might help the next guy. Also please record miles so you can report back as to how well it holds up. Good luck. Tim
Bought the Fel-Pro gasket set. I took your advice and ordered the OEM head gasket to use. I'll use the fel pro gaskets for everything else and save the Fel-Pro head gasket for later use if necessary. I'm having a mechanic do the work and I'm not sure I can convince him to take pictures but I'll make sure to ask questions and update this post with how everything turned out.
It's open!! Sent the injectors to doc injectors out of sacramento. Owner said his son has a toyota van so I think it's in good hands. Replacing all the gaskets besides the head gasket with Fel pro and the head gasket is toyota. Replacing hoses, coolant and vacuum. TPS getting replaced as well as bi valve. Valves are getting tested for leaks and the head is being refurbed. Will update when job is done to let you guys know if it fixed the overheating issue I was having.
By the way, that's my friendly toyota mechanic, also a toyota van owner and not me. I'm too wimp and don't have the space to pull this job off.