Other parts to replace while replacing Head Gasket

[timsrv]

If you're good with your hands you'll figure it out. In the quote below (which I'm sure you've seen) I hid links in the text. The tools you need, the connectors, wires, everything. Get a few extra pins and experiment until you're satisfied with the quality of your crimps. After you've completed the new harness you'll need to cut your old one and put matching connectors on the existing harness wires. Before you do that, you'll want to strip off all the old tape/covering so you can trace back and identify the wires. You'll want to be sure to identify and mark before you cut because some of the wires are the same color. If you go back far enough you will likely find some of the injector wires branch from common harness wires. If that happens just leave the old splices and put the Weather Packs on about 2" or 3" after the common splices (just makes your job easier). Tim

One thing that always annoyed me with the van is the requirement to remove the top half of the intake manifold just to connect/disconnect the engine wire harness to the fuel injectors. The last time I did this I cut the injector part of the harness off & built a removable injector harness (it worked great). This makes it possible to completely assemble the engine before installation. I liked it so much I built a removable harness for this one too (old connectors were shot anyhow). I'm using Standard part #S697 Bosch style injector connectors w/wire and 4 PIN SQ 16-14 AWG Weatherpack connectors. I use 16 AWG automotive primary stranded wire to go from the injector connectors to the Weatherpack connectors. I solder & shrink tube the connections to each injector connector wire, then cover the assembled harness with more shrink tubing. Note: Special crimpers are required for the Weatherpack connectors. If you work with these type connectors (also used on GM) I highly recommend having a Delphi Packard Weatherpack Terminal Release Tool in case you need to pull pins back out. Here is the finished harness:


Male connector positions A&B power injector #1 & positions C&D power injector #2. Female connector positions D&C power injector #3 & positions B&A power injector #4.

[Kauco]

I'm stumped just did my head gasket in the van and the engine vibrates pretty bad when idling in park what in the hell would cause this too happen!?!?!?followed all procedures as per the repair manual and replaced all the vacuum lines and what not

[timsrv]

Check your vacuum lines carefully. The ones that come to mind are the big one for the brake booster and the PCV. Also, check your throttle body intake boot for cracks. Another common thing is the metal tee that comes off the bottom of that intake tube. Make sure that it's up in the throttle body tube and make sure the rubber hoses are attached to it (especially the air valve elbow on the back side). Good luck. Tim

[Hammervan]

I took my head to a machine shop and they just gave it a shave and a clean bill of health. I'm wondering if it's worth changing the valve seals preemptively since they come with the gasket kit, or just leaving them alone. I'm sure it's easier to do it now with the head out than when it's on the van, but not sure if it's a "if it ain't broke" kind of thing or an easy thing to take care of now to prevent future issues.
I also sent my injectors to Dr. Injector in Gladstone per Tim's recommendation, and it's worth noting that his rates have gone up quite a bit from what people are mentioning here. He initially quoted $35 per injector for reconditioning, and $55 to replace one that had gone bad, which apparently are his retail rates now. He did give me a discount when I mentioned that Tim sent me . My local shop charges $20 but I figured it was worth it to know that he was familiar with our vans and could get a replacement if necessary.

[spacecruisers]

I just took my injectors to a guy in salt lake and he did them for $20 each. I assume it's the same guy...master tech auto if I remember. Anyway, he said all my flow rates were low and patterns were bad and was able to clean and get them up to spec, put new o-rings and seals on them. Haven't put them back in yet but I'm happy with the results sheet he gave me!

[VanDown]

Can anyone shed some light on what these rings are (pic attached)? Six of them came with my Toyota head gasket kit (04112-73035), and I have no idea what they are for

[originalkwyjibo]

They are a crush style exhaust flange gasket for between the manifold and header pipe marked as 17410B in the below diagram. I believe different years had different sizes and I think there may be some for the pipe to converter flanges.

[VanDown]

Ah excellent, I didn't notice those when I took the exhaust off. Thanks!

[MyToy]

I have exhausted all my efforts in trying to find a Toyota head gasket #11115-73010 or 73030. Call a bunch of Toyota dealers even and they are pronouncing it EOL, like no more.

So can anyone recommend the next best alternative gasket for our vans? I need one like soon. Want to finish over the holidays

Mt

[MyToy]

As I such for a head gasket I noticed something that I am sure all of you have. The some passage holes in the block to the head are not in the gasket! Here are some shots of this. I looked at tons of gaskets and they all look the same. I have never seen an original Toyota gasket.
Any comments on this before I use one of these?

[VanDown]

Have you read this thread in full?

I purchased an OEM Valve Grind Gasket Kit (04112-73035), which includes the head gasket, from sparksparts.com in December for $121. I believe I remember reading somewhere that you can't get just the gasket anywhere anymore, only this kit that includes it.

My new OEM gasket had blocked passages, I believe this is normal.

Note also Tim's strong recommendation against using aftermarket head gaskets.

[MyToy]

Thanks for the come back, they are gone also. Discontinued.
Looks like I will be going the Flo-Pro route.

MT

[timsrv]

Are you sure? According to toyotapartsdeal's website these are still available: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...112-73035.html

[MyToy]

Yep, I ordered through these guys and all was well until late last night they sent me a cancelation notice that my credit would be credited for the amount in that the part was no longer available. Indefinite time for stocking. Yeah, I was pretty bummed out after I thought I had it. Just for kicks and giggles I just attempted again, only this time I called them before I placed the order. The order date said 7-03-19 but when I talked to them they told me it was back ordered indenfinatly and to check again in a month.

Got any other recommendations? I ordered a Flo Pro in from amazon of which I can return any time if I find a better one.

Thanks Tim

MT

[timsrv]

Well that sucks. Just for giggles I just ordered one too. Their website says they have it and they took my money. I'll keep you posted as to what happens, but not holding out much hope after what you just posted. Tim

PS: I just ordered from Amazon too (listed as Amazon prime). The listing says 1 - 3 months (wtf?) delivery time, but when I checked out it said free 2-day delivery. We'll see what happens. Tim

[VanCo]

I'm currently running a turbo with head bolts (not studs). Since I'm running a turbo the likelihood of head gasket failure is high. That being said, I have not had good luck with composite gaskets, aftermarket or Toyota, they don't hold up. I'm currently running a 4y forklift stainless multi layer steel (MLS) gasket off eBay. I currently experience head lift at around 12psi, but the MLS gasket seals right back up. Composite gaskets distort into water passages, and permanently leak from then on. Same if overheated.

Using this gasket is a bit more advanced on the diy scale. You'll notice missing water ports on the gasket that are needed for the van head. I punched these out myself. Also MLS gaskets need a mirror flat surface on the head and block. A machine shop can help with that.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F112980402458

[MyToy]

For sure Tim, I just checked it myself also. Never saw this one but yea, same thing months out. So not for me I have to get this puppy back on the road.

Did you have any thoughts about the covered up passage ways I showed in the head? You must have used an original Toyota head with your history, ever notice this? I am tending to think I should cut them clear.
Any thoughts on that?

mt

[MyToy]

I'm currently running a turbo with head bolts (not studs). Since I'm running a turbo the likelihood of head gasket failure is high. That being said, I have not had good luck with composite gaskets, aftermarket or Toyota, they don't hold up. I'm currently running a 4y forklift stainless multi layer steel (MLS) gasket off eBay. I currently experience head lift at around 12psi, but the MLS gasket seals right back up. Composite gaskets distort into water passages, and permanently leak from then on. Same if overheated.

Using this gasket is a bit more advanced on the diy scale. You'll notice missing water ports on the gasket that are needed for the van head. I punched these out myself. Also MLS gaskets need a mirror flat surface on the head and block. A machine shop can help with that.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F112980402458

Interesting, I will have to follow this one also. So you punched yours out? Hmmmm.

Thanks for the input
mt

[VanCo]

Interesting, I will have to follow this one also. So you punched yours out? Hmmmm.

Thanks for the input
mt

The smaller and missing holes in the composite gaskets made for the 4yec are supposed to be like that. You don't need to modify them.

The MLS gasket was missing the holes that even the composite gasket had. Not sure why but its missing pretty much every large cooling hole. Must be because it's for a forklift 4y. You can see it in the pic on eBay.

I used a die and press to add the holes. Interestingly enough, the holes I made were still smaller than any composite gasket coolant holes. Even so, the cooling is better and more consistent than I have ever experienced while running a turbo.

If it works for a turbo engine, it should be bomb proof for a naturally aspirated engine.

[timsrv]

I wonder if it would seal against the factory mill marks on the deck surface of the block??? I'm guessing that would be a bit iffy. Thoughts? I'd probably go this route if I had the engine torn down and at the machine shop (I'd have them make the head and the deck surfaces smooth & shiny). I'm thinking this mod is probably not for the guy doing a head gasket in his garage with the block still installed in the van. Tim