Removing EGR and throttle body coolant lines

[ncbrock]

Just theoretically speaking here. I need to take my engine out in a few months when I have a break. The entire thing needs to be resealed, and figured it'll be easier with the engine out. Putting the engine back in, I kind of want to just make things as simple as possible for when/if anything happens on road trips or away from home.

1: I want to remove the whole EGR system to get rid of a ton of vacuum lines and possible leaks down the road. We do not have emissions testing here in NC and in 3 more years the van won't even need to be inspected annually. I'm not sure I really see any cons in removing the EGR, unless someone can point them out to me.

2: I want to remove the throttle body coolant/heater lines and wherever they connect to. It does not get very cold here, I don't really see a benefit to them. The rats nest of cooling lines under the upper intake manifold is a huge nightmare, and not easy to deal with. Again, not seeing any downsides unless I live in a really cold environment.

Let me know your thoughts, thanks for clicking

[Flecker]

I would leave it as is...

You won't gain anything from removing the egr system, it actually helps keep your engine/ combustion chambers a bit cooler. The system itself was designed to reduce Nox but there are plenty of benefits also. Because it keeps some balance on the combustion side it helps fuel economy also.

Another note is that the ECU has a relationship with that system via the egr valve/ vac switch. You'll have to leave the switch intact at the very least as not to throw a code.

[VanCo]

Another note is that the ECU has a relationship with that system via the egr valve/ vac switch. You'll have to leave the switch intact at the very least as not to throw a code.

The computer doesn't monitor the EGR.

You can get a block off plate, remove the EGR, plug the vacuum lines, plug the exhaust tube and it will be fine, no codes. I'm not saying it should be removed, but it can be.

As far as the coolant lines, they can be removed too. The only downside is that it takes a lot longer for the idle air control to warm up and idle down (since there is no coolant flowing through it). If it's never cold where you are you can compensate by turning the "DON'T EVER TURN" idle air screw. If the temperature varies by season freezing to 100's you'll be chasing a consistent idle forever.

I know all of this because I have done all of this.

[Flecker]

The computer doesn't monitor the EGR.

You can get a block off plate, remove the EGR, plug the vacuum lines, plug the exhaust tube and it will be fine, no codes. I'm not saying it should be removed, but it can be.

As far as the coolant lines, they can be removed too. The only downside is that it takes a lot longer for the idle air control to warm up and idle down (since there is no coolant flowing through it). If it's never cold where you are you can compensate by turning the "DON'T EVER TURN" idle air screw. If the temperature varies by season freezing to 100's you'll be chasing a consistent idle forever.

I know all of this because I have done all of this.

Your right... I was thinking trucks again. This EGR system runs off that goffy bimetal valve. No electric plug for this system.