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Thread: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

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    DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    Hey everyone. Recently my Jdm Townace developed a selection of diesel leaks after a stint of cold weather. I have owned a few diesels now and dread the day I smell diesel. If your lucky its a pipe, if your unlucky it's something to do with the pump!!!

    I have the RM025E service manual but that aside no other literature on the pump. The manual has schematics which are invaluable. It is however designed to explain a rebuild of the pump. That is a last case resort if you can't fix the leaks that I will explain in this little guide.
    From extensive researching on old defunct forums and what I could dig up I found it's very common for the pumps to start leaking between 60 thousand miles and 95. Not an exact science but it's a common problem.
    Mine is on around 80 thousand so fits the bill!

    I will cover the 4 fixes you can relatively easily do at home.
    They DO NOT require the pump to be removed and can be done in situ using parts that are pretty easy to get hold of at little cost!

    First up are the two pages of the manual that are vital for part location reference!
    Following these I will break each section down.
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    Last edited by oli larsen; 01-09-2018 at 11:44 AM.

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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    LOWER PISTON COVER PLATE.
    This is the plate that is held on with two m6 cap head bolts on the low side of the pump facing away from the engine. It's by far the easiest. you will only need an Allen key or as I used a 1/4 ratchet with an extension and the correct Allen key bit. I think it was a "5" in the end.
    To ease access remove the header tank (expansion tank) for the radiator.
    Make sure the Allen key is fully seated with pressure on it to keep it in the bolt and crack off the two bolts.
    Really put pressure in on it and make sure the Allen key is in good condition. you don't want to round these off!!!
    it will drop a little fuel but not much so have a rag under it.
    when it's loose keep hold of it and slide it carefully out. There id a spring inside so draw it out.
    You need not touch the adjuster and lock nut!
    Then simply select the correct o-ring and replace. refit is simply the reverse.

    ***** I flatted my cover plate as it was a bit corroded*****
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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    2. THERMO WAX COUPLING COVER.
    Next tup is the thermo wax coupling cover, It's very similar and uses the same o-ring.
    It is however a little more fiddly. First remove The two m6 cap head bolts that hold the throttle stop plate nearest the thermo wax coupling down. they are on the top of the pump.
    Then look down on the same piece to the side of the pump. there is another m6. this one is a bit longer. mine rounded and had to be drilled out. luckily once the head was gone it unscrewed easily. a huge relief!!! once these three bolts are out lift the throttle stop plate out.
    You are now left with the two m6 cap heads that hold the thermo wax coupling in. undo them and ease it out.
    I left it assembled and wriggled an Allen key around the spring. I had to leave the top bolt in and ease it off with the unit. this saves a lot of time as depicted. You will lose a lot of diesel when this comes out. the pump will drain as its like a little tank inside. once its stopped replace the o-ring in the pump body and refit.
    Do not be tempted to over tighten any of these bolts. they don't need much torque and stripping the thread in the soft alloy casting is far to easy to do!
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    Post Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    3. Top cover gasket.
    This is where it gets a little more complex, but don't be put off. it's pretty simple once you get into it. first off you will need to unclip the throttle cable. simply push it to open and lift the cable out. much liken a push bike brake lever! Next disconnect the fuel return line on the back of the pump. it has a 17mm banjo bolt. don't drop the copper washers as you slide the bolt out!
    Next up take the two 10mm headed bolts out of the top holding a little cylinder with a wire coming out of it. it opens the throttle a bit when the ac is put on. mine was jammed and rusty so I've chose to leave it off! especially as I don't have AC anymore anyway!
    Disconnect the vacuum line to the boost diaphragm and put it to one side.
    Next up remove the throttle stop bracket that you took off for the thermo wax coupling. two cap head m6 bolts on the top cover and one long one on the side of the pump. The thermo wax coupling is not disturbed by this!!!
    Next up are the two throttle stop screws. one nearest the engine controls maximum engine speed. it has a wire tie on it. mark up the adjusting side of the bolt with paint or something visible. crack off the 10mm lock nut just enough to free it then undo it by hand. try and leave the nut in the same place to make things easier when you put it back together!!
    The one on the other side of the top cover is the idle adjust. it looks the same minus a locking wire. repeat the process.
    Now you need to remove the throttle spindle. This is a part that can cause you a lot of problems. I strongly suggest you do as I did here to save yourself a nightmare!!!!
    First scribe a line across the spindle, across the nut and across the centre of the thread in its middle!
    It is splined and this makes getting it in the right position way easier upon reinstallation.
    Next get some wire, garden wire works great. Look down on top of the spindle and you will see 2x return springs. Now you want to hook the wire around them and pull them back one at a time. then thread the wire through the eye where the throttle cabe locks in and tighten the wire. do this to both and the spindle should now move freely back and forth.
    Double check that they won't get free of the wire!!!!!!
    Now crack off the 10mm nut on the spindle and undo it. lightly wriggle it off the splines and set it aside. don't knock it!
    With that done you can now access the 4x M6 cap head bolts holding the top cover down.
    try and undo them evenly. you will need an Allen key for the two nearer the rear as the boost diaphragm will be in the way. again try and keep pressure on them to stop them rounding!!!!!!
    ******PLEASE NOTE*******
    Leave the boost diaphragm attached. the service manual says to remove it. this is not necessary as you are not rebuilding it. it is adjustable and to avoid an additional task leave it alone!!!
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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    This will save you no end of time and stress upon the rebuild!
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    Post Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    3 TOP SEAL.
    once the 4 m6 cap heads are removed from the top cover gently wriggle it to break the seal. Now place rags all around the top and either have the van on flat clear ground or put a sheet under it. There is a spring and cap that may try and escape and you don't want to lose it!
    as you lift it up you will fell resistance. lift it gently up and back a bit. have a light to hand and look in the side of the pump. there is a spring from the spindle attached to a little cap in a lever that sticks up.
    Either try and unclip the spring if you can reach or if possible gently press the throttle spindle down, if you get about 10mm of it to go down you can reach in and hold the spindle and slide it out. try and keep a little tension on the spring. with the cover lifted free you can now unclip the spring and very carefully holding the damper spring slide it out.
    This is the trickiest part of it.
    I dropped mine but luckily found it straight away. there is a spring from the spindle, then a little spring and a cap that holds it together. its an evil little thing but quite simple when you figure it out. set it aside and wipe it down. don't get any dirt or fluids in the pump as there is no filter after it and its all to easy to get dirt in the injection pump. Now simply install the new top gasket and you are away!!!!
    REFITTING.
    It's all the same but a helpful thing I found was to install the damper spring and spring seat and jam my glove behind it. otherwise it will slide out.
    then connect the spring to keep it together.
    I will now jump to the 4th seal as it makes sense to do it at this point!!!!
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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    4 THROTTLE SPINDLE O-RING.

    This is really simple. just push the spindle out if it's not out already, remove the old o-ring, clean the bore out with a clean rag and slide the new o-ring on.
    I used a bit of clean veg oil on it to help it slide in! as one I didn't want to use anything that might contaminate the pump and o-ring (cleaning fluids) and two these old beasts can run off the stuff if you feel like it!
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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    TOP COVER RE-ASSEMBLY.
    This is a a little fiddly but you can save yourself some grief. As I said before surround the pump with clean rags. slide the damper spring and spring seat throughout he hole in the governor link (lever sticking up) then jam something soft behind it to hold it in. otherwise it will lean forwards and drop out.
    then grab the speed control spring and hook it on.
    Next take the throttle spindle are noting its orientation in the cover and clip the spring to it.
    Gently bring the cover plate down holding the spindle and slide it into the bore. it may take a little wriggle and oil but it will go in.
    once its all located the head of the spindle should just be sticking out. gently pull it up with your fingers as you bring the top cover down. once its fully up gently sit the cover on the pump and loosely put in a couple of the M6 cap head bolts.
    now evenly tighten them down so the gasket seats properly. its very important to do a little on each when they start biting. lightly do them all up and the cover is back on!
    Next take the throttle spindle and line up your marks you scribed earlier. gently sit it down so the thread is just sticking up. you can then get the m6 nut on a few threads to stop it pushing the spindle in. now move it around until the splines and marks are aligned and gently (with your fingers) start doing then up. it will pull it all up together as it does up. lightly torque it down and thats the cover back on!!! for now leave the wires holding the springs back on incase you have done something wrong inside!!!
    Next refit everything in reversal of removal and you are almost good to go!!!!
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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    STARTING AND PRIMING.

    The first time I tried to do this I had a nightmare. despite furiously pumping the primer I couldn't get any fuel into the pump to even begin bleeding it!
    When you remove the thermo wax coupling it drains the pump completely!
    the primer is pretty roflroflroflrofl at refilling this so I devised a plan. I removed the fuel line from the filter and put a little funnel in it. I held I tup high and filled both the filter, the lines and whatever went into the pump. this gets a lot of air out of the first bit of the system. next up I tried bleeding the injectors to no avail.
    I left it over night and when I came back in the morning I primed the filter and magically I got fuel at the injectors straight away. I have no idea if leaving the injectors loosened off over night let the air rise up to the highest point or something like that but it worked.
    Anyway.
    loosen off the 4 injectors with a 17mm spanner just so they can weep diesel out. It's easier with the air intake elbow and breather hose off! it looks tricky to get to them but its actually pretty easy!
    don't crush the glow plug power feed metal plate though!
    crank the engine until fuel trickles out of each injector, tighten them all back up and it should be good to go!!!
    Make sure the throttle is closed as it should be. even with the springs tied back with wire it should shut itself.
    Then fire it up.
    you can blip the throttle from the seat if you want to check its working.
    look for leaks and hopefully they are all gone!!!
    if they are remove the wires and pop the throttle cable back on and away you go!
    The pumps themselves are pretty hardy its just the old rubber seals letting go. for about 18 I changed my seals and had a few spare for future issues. By doing these seals you wont touch the timing or fuel dosage of the pump. therefore it wont need setting up again!
    don't forget to lock the max engine speed screw and screw on the back with new wire before you shut the lid on it!!!!
    I hope this helps many people as it took. fair bit of tinkering and researching to do these seals!

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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    ADDITIONAL LEAKS........
    If you find despite doing these 4 seals you still have a leak from the rear of the pump (around where the iron block joins the aluminium body) from the distributive body, and its not just a loose injector pipe then I'm afraid its rebuild time. theres a big o-ring in there that once removed the entire pump needs re-setting up! this, unless you have access to engineering equipment is sadly best left to a professional.
    The seals I've mentioned above though are all well with in grasp of any hobby mechanic!!!
    Last edited by oli larsen; 01-10-2018 at 12:20 PM.

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    Post Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    Here is the rebuild kit I used. it's a generic Bosch kit with an additional top seal chucked in. many of the Nippon denso, Bosch ve pumps are incredibly similar so the o-rings and cover seals work on many a pump! I got mine form a company called rough Trax Toyota in the uk. the Bosch part number is easy enough to track down though. or if you want genuine its the same as any 1c-2c-2ct-3ct set. used in Camry, townace, corolla, gay ass Noah's or any other Toyota. this pump is in many things in various incarnations.
    my kit had the extra seal you can see in the picture.
    *REMEMBER TO GET BOTH TOP SEAL OPTIONS**** as I can't seem to find out a pattern in whats in what!
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    Last edited by oli larsen; 01-10-2018 at 12:21 PM.

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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    Whoa Oli this is epic.

    Thanks!
    Matt

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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    Hey there!
    New to this site and am trying to find a way to post a new thread!
    Anyways- I have a 92 Toyota Lite Ace... and the fuel pump BROKE! Where are you guys getting yours, as my mechanic is unable to find any leads on a new one.

    THANK YOU SO MUCH.

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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by JenOdd View Post
    Hey there!
    New to this site and am trying to find a way to post a new thread!
    Anyways- I have a 92 Toyota Lite Ace... and the fuel pump BROKE! Where are you guys getting yours, as my mechanic is unable to find any leads on a new one.

    THANK YOU SO MUCH.
    I couldn't honestly tell you as I imagine you are in the states!!!
    however many other Toyotas used the 2ct and 3ct engine and the pumps can be used on either. they are still available rebuilt from Australia, nz and Japan however any diesel pump specialist should be able to overhaul them as they are a Japanese copy of a Bosch pump. the setup specs can be found in the Toyota service manual. hope this helps!!

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    Re: DIESEL PUMP FIXES TO AVOID EXPENSIVE REBUILDS AND CURE LEAKS!!!!

    Awesome write up. My injection pump leak(s) had progressed to the point where I had to prime the fuel filter each morning. The o rings behind the thermo wax coupler and the timer piston cover were hard and flat. Those are the only two I replaced. I primed the fuel filter and she fired right up. I'll confirm the repair tomorrow morning when I start it up.

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