Awesome thanks for the infoOriginally Posted by Flecker
Awesome thanks for the info
Yip... The sensa's might be on the cheaper side, but the thing doesn't shake and rattle over every bump or nook and cranny in the road! Rides like a caddy man.
The one upside of a bit softer shock I suppose. I know the bilsteins are all the rage, and they cost quite a few more greenbacks... but for roughly $22 bucks a shock I swear by these.
Hek anything is better than Rancho's. Those will ride like a lumber truck ad make your fillings fal out!
So I've seen several people that have used the Aerostar springs, and invariably they say they cut 2-3 coils off (gradually)
I seem to recall also people saying the small end bits were the first to go. Makes sense if needed to fit!
My question is this for those that had used the Aerostar springs: The Aerostar coils are Dual rate springs, meaning they have a soft section for a nice ride and a stiffer section for heavy loads . Are you cutting the well spaced (I believe that is the soft side) coils, or the tight coils? are you counting the tight cutoffs?
I went with the CC841's (still waiting for the Bilstien's to get here) as those are softer (should be better off road) and 18.69 inches free height, vs the CC845's I see most using, and at 20" I won't be cutting as much off.
I didn't see the need for the 616# Load rating when I'm going to be empty or lightly loaded most of the time even when camping. If I go for a week, or with more people I tow a trailer (so finding or adapting a receiver hitch is high on my list), and that takes the bulk of the weight, so the 482# load rating should be fine for my use.
Last edited by outlawmws; 04-03-2019 at 07:44 PM.
Are you using the Sensas on the front as well?? Is there really a solution post-torsion bar crank to allow the van a decent ride?
I used Sen Sen and am VERY happy with the results. The front's were for a Dakota, dont remember the year. They did need to be modified a bit on the lower eye to fit in the mounts on the lower A-arms, nothing a 4" grinder couldn't handle. These ride like a champ with about an inch crank on the torsion bars... will be adding another 1/2 inch or so in the near future.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CA7FJXY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The backs I used the same brand out of a 2wd F150, also forget the year but they had the max travel (right under 10" or so), and they also ride like a caddy, but are just right on up/ down travel.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CA7FSQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seemed to be the magic number's for my van and the price is REALLY great.
Last edited by Flecker; 04-24-2019 at 12:23 PM.
Question: I'm in the process of lifting my 4WD cargo van. I removed the rear stock spring, and am about to install a Moog CC841 with ~1 pigtail/coil chopped off on each end. Are these the right springs for the van? The ID of the spring doesn't seem like it'll fit over the top spring bumper that the spring is supposed to slip over. ID of spring is 110mm, and the OD of the bumper is 116mm.
Did I buy the right springs for the rear or did I misread something somewhere?
Here is the post of my spring mods: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ll=1#post38662
In retrospect I could have left a little o more of a coil on, but its more than adequate:
I did the Aerostar springs i have some pictures but not on this computer. If you are part of the facebook group they are there. I will try and remember to post them here. I cut two coils off of the top and a half on the bottom so I made the bottom bigger by cutting the Single tight coil off. the two if the tight coils off of the top. they own fit over the spring seats otherwise. I need to get my tape measure out because i feel like it might be higher on one side.
Thanks outlaw and JT! I might cut some urethane discs for the springs to sit on instead of reusing the old rubber pads.
Is therear brake proportioning bracket the only mod I have to do in terms for safety for this "lift"?
I though I was going to need some urethane or rubber pads at the seat of the springs. I even spent time ordering a set in the size I needed, but they were not needed and I didn't put them in. Just went on a long road trip yesterday and they have seated well and do not move.
I didn't do the Bracket, but you DO need to make an adjustment there or the rear brakes lock up an bad times...
I made a modified extended link adn its finely adjustable.
The best way to get to a start point is to measure the rife height at the rear wheels BEFORE you do the lift ot any tire/wheel change. From the ground to the edge of the fender well is fine.
The after the lift, measure again with the same tires/wheels, if its 2" the link needs to grow 2" if 2-1/2" again, the link needs to be 2-1/2" longer.
Here is my link: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ll=1#post39352
I think the original rubber pad is more of an insulator than anything else. It prevents the metal to metal "sqwicking and clinking" , and the two parts rubbing themself to bare metal and rusting. Keep an ear and an eye on it.
LG.
"perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away." A. de St Exupery.
This ^^ And rubbing through (wear) and for road noise. if it weren't for road noise, all the suspension bushings would be bronze...
Since I spent hours searching through a few threads for part numbers, here is what I did:
Front:
2000 Durango 4wd front shocks - Bilstein B6 4600
- These are ALMOST 100% bolt in. The only thing you need to do is either have the lower bushing machined down (or grind it) to fit inside the stock Toyota lower shock mount. I forget the dimensions, but I think you need to remove ~1/4" on each side of the bushing. They ride amazing with the torsion bar cranked up to get your desired lift.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...361832&jsn=461
Tighten your torsion bars to a desired height. Make sure to use a micrometer or machinists ruler to get both sides pretty even.
Rear:
2009 Toyota Tacoma rear shocks - PN#: 48530-A9680. Factory Bilsteins.
(priced each, add 2 to cart)
https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-48530-.../dp/B00KTJX5IG
Moog CC845 Springs. These take some trial and error to get your desired height. It was kind of annoying, but prepare to spend an afternoon unbolting your rear end, bolting up your rear end, and cutting your springs to your desired height. I think it took me 3 tries and I ended up chopping 3 coils off the top.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=CC845
Tires:
I'm running 27x8.50 General Grabber AT2
Everything ended up settling at a 2" overall suspension lift. The tires added about another 1" of ground clearance because they were taller than the stock tires.
Hey ncbrock, im wondering if this lift you did was able to eliminate any rub that came with those AT2 tires?? i just had the A/TX tires (just the new version of the at2's) mounted on my van, and they rub against that front fender pretty bad when i steer. they are also 27x8.5.
i have the bars cranked all the way up right now and it rides like a turd... only did that so i could drive it back from the tire shop w/o them rubbing. im gonna upgrade the shocks and springs soon.
Brock has not been on forum in several years.
I did a lift also and used 215/75R15's Ohtsu AT4000's (NLA - too bad, good tires) - 27" tall I just measured - I measured a bit over 7" tread width. These are on Samurai rims.
Definite going to need to trim the front body and some of the door with a 27" tire. I certainly did and needed to do some pounding on the back inside as well. I was able to back off from max torsion arm tension, which helps the ride a lot.
I put in Gabriel ultra Force G63612's for shocks and the ride improved a ton; Night and day difference.
thanks a bunch for your input and quick response. I'm super reluctant to cut anything or pound the body of my van with a hammer... but i might just have to go ahead with it.
I've had the KYB gas-a-just shocks in my van for a few years and it looks like they're the same size and travel as those gabriels. I'm thinkin about going the daystar spacer route for the rear coils, and maybe some air shocks on the back. ill let ya know how it goes!
Jams,
Do you have them mounted on a 2WD?
I have LT27x8.50r14 grabber ATX's on one of my 4WD vans at stock ride height with no issues. I have also run 3 other brands in the same size on my other van before I lifted it with no issues. On a 4WD, If the ride height is a properly adjusted stock setting with stock wheels and a front end in good shape there should be little if any tire rub in normal driving. I say "properly adjusted" because so many of these have had the front suspension settle with age and are sitting inches low in the front. If you have them on a 2WD than I have no idea what clearance issues you may run into.
Yes, i have a 2wd. I think that may be a factor. From what ive read on this site, the 4wds from certain years can accommodate a bigger tire. Im gonna throw some spacers in the rear coils and hammer on the fender for the front wheels. Gonna try to do as little cosmetic damage as possible the tires are just barely scraping that front fender when i steer so hopefully shouldn't take much hammering.
i brought the torsion bars up a little from the original ride height. When i maxed them out the suspension was so stiff it was unbearable, and the tires still rubbed. The shocks were also maxed out at that height so that could have been causing the rough ride. I have kyb shocks they are about 14.8 maxed out.
the rear tires are not rubbing, but the back end of my van has been squatting since i bought it 5 years ago, and im tired of looking at it haha.
so long story short im gonna hammer the fenders, keep the torsion bars at a reasonable level, not get taller shocks unless i have to, and get some spacers for the coil springs.
ill report back when i get it figured out.
Jams
bout a month later... got those tires working by hitting my van with a 5lb sledge until it cooperated. cut a small corner out of each door so it matched the hammered in fender (this is directly in front of the front wheels). had to hammer behind the front wheels too, where the mud flaps bolt on. coil spring spacers went in fine. i could try to upload photos but i am friends with machines not computers.
Me being a young kid and still learning so many things about the world... i didnt think about the impact these tires would have on the fuel economy. they have a softer rubber compound so more rolling resistance in the summer, combined with a clapped out 4y im now getting a bogus 16-18 mpg... might go back to normal tires and running chains at the ski area :(
Bigger tires changed your odometer, have you factored that in? Mine is 7% off.
And you did exactly what I had to do in front for the larger tires. Same 5 lb single jack...
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