Yip... The sensa's might be on the cheaper side, but the thing doesn't shake and rattle over every bump or nook and cranny in the road! Rides like a caddy man.
The one upside of a bit softer shock I suppose. I know the bilsteins are all the rage, and they cost quite a few more greenbacks... but for roughly $22 bucks a shock I swear by these.
Hek anything is better than Rancho's. Those will ride like a lumber truck ad make your fillings fal out!
So I've seen several people that have used the Aerostar springs, and invariably they say they cut 2-3 coils off (gradually)
I seem to recall also people saying the small end bits were the first to go. Makes sense if needed to fit!
My question is this for those that had used the Aerostar springs: The Aerostar coils are Dual rate springs, meaning they have a soft section for a nice ride and a stiffer section for heavy loads . Are you cutting the well spaced (I believe that is the soft side) coils, or the tight coils? are you counting the tight cutoffs?
I went with the CC841's (still waiting for the Bilstien's to get here) as those are softer (should be better off road) and 18.69 inches free height, vs the CC845's I see most using, and at 20" I won't be cutting as much off.
I didn't see the need for the 616# Load rating when I'm going to be empty or lightly loaded most of the time even when camping. If I go for a week, or with more people I tow a trailer (so finding or adapting a receiver hitch is high on my list), and that takes the bulk of the weight, so the 482# load rating should be fine for my use.
Last edited by outlawmws; 04-03-2019 at 07:44 PM.
Are you using the Sensas on the front as well?? Is there really a solution post-torsion bar crank to allow the van a decent ride?
I used Sen Sen and am VERY happy with the results. The front's were for a Dakota, dont remember the year. They did need to be modified a bit on the lower eye to fit in the mounts on the lower A-arms, nothing a 4" grinder couldn't handle. These ride like a champ with about an inch crank on the torsion bars... will be adding another 1/2 inch or so in the near future.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CA7FJXY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The backs I used the same brand out of a 2wd F150, also forget the year but they had the max travel (right under 10" or so), and they also ride like a caddy, but are just right on up/ down travel.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CA7FSQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seemed to be the magic number's for my van and the price is REALLY great.
Last edited by Flecker; 04-24-2019 at 12:23 PM.
Question: I'm in the process of lifting my 4WD cargo van. I removed the rear stock spring, and am about to install a Moog CC841 with ~1 pigtail/coil chopped off on each end. Are these the right springs for the van? The ID of the spring doesn't seem like it'll fit over the top spring bumper that the spring is supposed to slip over. ID of spring is 110mm, and the OD of the bumper is 116mm.
Did I buy the right springs for the rear or did I misread something somewhere?
Here is the post of my spring mods: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ll=1#post38662
In retrospect I could have left a little o more of a coil on, but its more than adequate:
I did the Aerostar springs i have some pictures but not on this computer. If you are part of the facebook group they are there. I will try and remember to post them here. I cut two coils off of the top and a half on the bottom so I made the bottom bigger by cutting the Single tight coil off. the two if the tight coils off of the top. they own fit over the spring seats otherwise. I need to get my tape measure out because i feel like it might be higher on one side.
Thanks outlaw and JT! I might cut some urethane discs for the springs to sit on instead of reusing the old rubber pads.
Is therear brake proportioning bracket the only mod I have to do in terms for safety for this "lift"?
I though I was going to need some urethane or rubber pads at the seat of the springs. I even spent time ordering a set in the size I needed, but they were not needed and I didn't put them in. Just went on a long road trip yesterday and they have seated well and do not move.
I didn't do the Bracket, but you DO need to make an adjustment there or the rear brakes lock up an bad times...
I made a modified extended link adn its finely adjustable.
The best way to get to a start point is to measure the rife height at the rear wheels BEFORE you do the lift ot any tire/wheel change. From the ground to the edge of the fender well is fine.
The after the lift, measure again with the same tires/wheels, if its 2" the link needs to grow 2" if 2-1/2" again, the link needs to be 2-1/2" longer.
Here is my link: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ll=1#post39352
LG.
"perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away." A. de St Exupery.