Thank you very much for your answers!! For the first pic which is the temp switch, is it easy to find and install?
Thank you very much for your answers!! For the first pic which is the temp switch, is it easy to find and install?
Yup
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Engine-Management-9334-Temperature/dp/B000CSQBG2/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=temperature+switch&pd_rd_r=9b8 fb368-5b98-422c-b1ea-2a4b1eb93d6e&pd_rd_w=VKoWP&pd_rd_wg=4PLgd&pf_rd_p= 69d18130-6e8f-49ee-b708-7afee8d6d397&pf_rd_r=YB3XZJRA33KJ19ZNKSXG&qid=1553 489592&s=automotive&sr=1-7&vehicle=1987-76-942-995--49-8-8-4776-1893-9-1-1996-191-&vehicleName=1987+Toyota+Van
the part i'm looking is the idle up temp switch #8942820050 and I believe i found it on RockAuto.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=257&jsn=257
I don't think I need to buy it, i just don't know how to reconnect the disconnected cable? Can you please help.
Thank you very much!!
That particular plug will need to be repaired. If it were me, I would take the female part of the plug off and use a crimp for now until you fix or replace the broken one.
The idle up temp switch isn't going to have any ill consequences if you fore go it for a while though... thats the good news
That's your "pressure-up" temperature switch. With the changing gas markets it's pretty useless (way out of range for the boiling temp of modern gasoline). Just leave the sensor disconnected and connect that wire to ground. Connecting the wire to ground will send a signal to your ECU telling it the engine is running hot, and that will increase the fuel pressure for ~2 minutes after each start-up. With summer coming on that will help combat the effects of HEAT SOAK. Tim
In the middle of doing my distributor cap, plug wires and plugs I noticed a busted wire, maybe to a thermostat or something? To the left of the opened up distributor with green on it going into the engine. What is that?
Tim thank you very much!!!!
I don’t know how my comment got mixed in here,here but is that the same thing I’m referring to? Pressure up switch?
That picture is a bit rough, but I think you're referring to the overdrive temperature sensor. IMO this is another useless sensor. It's job is to prevent overdrive operation when engine temp is below 130° F. If/when the sensor becomes disconnected the overdrive will function at all engine temperatures (big disaster). I'm not sure why Toyota even bothered to put that there, but I've had that sensor go bad before and it caused my overdrive to stop working. All I did was disconnect it and I got my OD back again.
When I work on a van, if I need a sensor port for an aftermarket gauge, I will typically remove that sensor and use that port. It won't hurt anything to leave the wire hang as long as it's not able to touch anything conductive. If it somehow gets grounded your overdrive will stop working. If you find the wire hanging, just wrap some electrical tape around it. Tim
I searched thru a bunch of threads but could seem to locate which these might be.
Can anyone assist based on pics or point me to the relevant thread please?
Thx!
Hello guys,
for my disconnect cold start igniter cable, I'm planning to buy a new one and replace it. I found few at the Rockauto but not sure, are all of them the same? Which one do you recommend me to get?
Or can you send me please the part number.
thank you!!
iordanis![]()
no hoses anywhere near it - and looks shiny like it just got exposed. Any ideas?
Looks like a grease fitting.
LG.
"perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away." A. de St Exupery.
That is the bleed port for the clutch. Sometimes it has a dust cap. Not required.
cool. thank you!
Those silly little condoms that come on all bleeder screws are worth their weight in gold.
I had to learn that lesson the hard way, many times over, before I finally clued in.
That little rubber cap keeps out the dirt and moisture.
If there is no dirt and moisture, there is no rust!
I have NEVER snapped a bleeder screw that had its rubber in place.
Its always the naked ones that become one with their housing.
A seized/broken bleeder is a pita to remove and more often than not requires the entire component be replaced and that gets expensive fast
I keep a package of them on hand at all times as they are easy to lose and they deteriorate with age.
makes sense to me - will assume the caps are just a Napa thing unless you reply otherwise.
Thanks!
Cant say if its a Napa thing or not.
I get mine from the dealer.