Steering rack options

[JDM VANMAN]

BB,

yes it has always pulled to the left, here's a list of work that I had done when I first purchased the van and I found the numbers on the alignment I had done as well. No I haven't had time to have the tire rotated yet, been working working 6 days a week and Sundays been the only time off to try and squeeze everything else in along with some family time.

2014-
1) upper/lower control arms
2) front knuckle
3) upper/lower ball joints
4) inner/outer bearings/ seals
5) wheel alignment (pic attached)

still slight left pul

2016-
6) set of new tires

still slight left pull

2017-
7) seized left caliper R/R
8) tie rod
9) tighten up lower ball joint
10) wheel alignment check out good but unable to adjust caster

strong pull left and then work was done and back to slight pull left

[Burntboot]

JDM - "Camber and Toe good, unable to adjust Caster"

Your first pic shows LF caster is .5deg beyond spec and is negative (top of wheel leaning in), RS is slightly positive.
The manual states that L-R differential should not exceed .5 degree, yours is 1.4
That could cause a pull.

Over time, as the suspension sags, the lower control arm is pushed outward, inducing negative camber.
Ride height is always the first thing to check with camber issues.

From the centre of the lower control arm bolt to the ground should be about 10in. (even side to side)
Best to verify tire pressures are all even before measuring ride height.

If it's sitting low, you'll have to adjust the torsions bars then recheck the alignment, you might also want to consider a new alignment shop.
BB

PS - While the Caster is "out of spec" it is only off by 0.1 degree going by the specs they quoted (3-4*) the L-R differential is only 1/2 degree which shouldn't induce a pull

[JDM VANMAN]

BB,

thank you for taking the time to look into that Spec Sheet and breaking it down, when eyeballing the van it sits straight and there's no sagging... again that's eyeballing it with an untrained eye.

I've taking it to 2 shops for agianment and both shops said they were unable to adjust the caster, my buddy owns a tire shop the has a alignment rack so I'll take it to him to have him check it out, that'll probably in the end of February when I'll take a week off from work and can schedule the time.

I'll follow up and revisit this thread at that time

Thank you

JDM

[spacecruisers]

Did you ever have these issues arise again? I suspect a bad rack on my 87 4wd. Leaking from inside the inner tie rod boot, popping noise on full turn and hard clunking over bumps. Couldn't find a lot of info on here regarding replacing the rack and pinion.

[spacecruisers]

I've got a small leak from the inner tie rod boot, does this warrant a rack replacement? is it worth rebuilding or buying a seal kit? anyone try the reman from car steering wholesale linked earlier in the thread?

[Grappler]

anyone try the reman from car steering wholesale linked earlier in the thread?

After developing a pretty significant leak at the boot, I bought a remanufactured rack off of ebay for about the same or maybe even less money than this unit above. That was about 5 years ago, and I haven't had any problems with it since. I can't say that this isn't just because of dumb luck in getting a well-redone unit, but I was pretty happy with the exxxxxxxtreme savings.

As I'm sure is mentioned in this thread, get an alignment immediately after if you choose to replace it yourself!

[Burntboot]

Mr - It all depends upon just how big your leak is.
The rack (bar that the outer tie rods mount to) rides inside the housing on bushings that will, over time wear, which creates play within the housing.
The seals can only take up so much slop before the finally start to allow fluid to seep past.
As far as I understand it, rack rebuilding is not for the faint of heart or those without access to many special tools.
Either buying a remanned unit (or having yours overhauled) is the safest way to go.

If your leak is small, you may well buy some time with a can of sealer, its designed to swell those old hard seals, sometimes it works great, sometimes not at all, but certainly worth the price of admission given the cost and time of replacing the rack.

[ratatouille]

Had a few postings on a similar thread and Tim pointed this thread out instead . Hoping to find some light on my next course of action for rack removal. I've got the rack completed unbolted from tie rods, frame mount, pressure lines, & steering shaft/ pinion. The service manual doesn't exactly point out the procedure for what else to do to get it out. Anyone have experience doing this work in your own garage too? Suggestions on next move for easiest route to remove and slip the new one in? Much appreciated!

[ratatouille]

Turns out the rack with tie rods still connected will slip out the top end with radiator removed. Figured I'd mention it if anyone else encounters the same question when going to replace steering rack and pinion. I followed manual as all it outlines is how to disconnect rack. So I decided to remove radiator & drivers side radiator mountain bracket, pulled/pushed tierod to move rack all the way to passenger side, position mounting shoulder flat side towards mounting stud and twist forward as you lift out drivers side first. It will barely fit between dif and stud. See picture. So stoked tearing dif out is not necessary for this removal.

My only problem now is to track down a proper rack as the one sold to me is not the correct one.
Its close but I dont think it will work as the mounting shoulder is not facing the right way.

[JDM VANMAN]

ratatouille,

did you you buy the rack from carsteering.com? That does look like the wrong part according to your picture and the part number engraved. Is it possible to send your rack to them and have them rebuild it for you instead of looking/waiting for another part to present itself?

JDM

[JDM VANMAN]

ratatouille,

did you have your rack rebuilt or find another one?

I found the rack but the price might be wrong-

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Toyota-...item4b3fef91ff

[timsrv]

Wow! It's on sale for over 30% off. You could save $647.00. Get it quick before it goes back to the regular price.

[JDM VANMAN]

It’s amazing that the price is so high, I purchased mine for $290 from carsteering-

Toyota part- 44250-28060

Seller SKU- 80-00553R

JDM

[Carbonized]

That's Fleabay for you, so much bad weed to go through to find the grass

[ratatouille]

ratatouille,

did you have your rack rebuilt or find another .....

Many apologies about the delay in response. Somehow I missed the notification . Been way too busy. I beleive if my memory is right I ended up taking the incorrect rack back and having the OG rebuilt. No problems too date. I've prob run 4-6k so far if I had to guess.