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Thread: Clutch adjustment

  1. #1
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    Clutch adjustment

    I own two 4x4 5 speed van and one the clutch engages when pedal is lifted off the floor and the other van the clutch engages almost to the top of the pedal throw. Thanks

  2. #2
    Van Obsessed
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    Re: Clutch adjustment

    The clutch should engage at roughly the midpoint of travel.

    Grabbing close to the floor is usually a sign of worn hydraulics.
    Grabbing to high up is usually a sign of a worn out disc.
    Having a vague/long friction point is a sign of a broken pressure plate

    Of course, PO's are notorious for doing stupid things, often referred to as "upgrades"
    (like adjusting the push-rod instead of replacing the master and other such silliness)

  3. #3
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    Re: Clutch adjustment

    Worn hydraulics isn’t what I wanted to here.

  4. #4
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    Re: Clutch adjustment

    Don't fear hydraulics, there is nothing complicated about it, its essentially just a liquid connection, as long as the fluid is in good shape and no air in the system, it works as intended. As usual problems only occur with neglect.

    So brake fluid is hygroscopic, which is a fancy term for having a high water absorption factor.
    The reason being that any moisture in the system will be absorbed by the fluid and not cause rust on the system components. Also, the more water it absorbs, the lower the boiling point which can become a real issue under hard braking.
    That is why brake fluid should be flushed out completely every 2 years, regardless of mileage.
    When new, it is virtually clear, when it reaches the colour of honey it is time to change it.
    If it is brown, it is no longer capable of absorbing any moisture and that which has been absorbed starts to fall out of suspension, that fall out will accumulate at any low points in the system and promote rust and if it gets under the seals for the master or slave it will not only take out the seals but can also score the bore, promoting leaks and negating a rebuild.
    Also, when the fluid is flushed on a regular basis, all the bleeder screws remain serviceable.
    (which translates into not having to replace callipers/whl cylinders for broken bleeder screws).
    If the fluid is black, plan on replacing hard components sooner than later.

    Back to not wanting to hear things.
    First up is flush out all that old nasty fluid and do the brake system at the same time, its a shared reservoir and its pretty much a given that it hasn't been done recently, if ever.
    Read thru the threads on bleeding both systems, as there are van specific peculiarities that need to be considered (like the 5th bleeder screw on the brakes!)

    If flushing out all the old fluid and bleeding out all the air doesn't restore the pedal function then its time to dig further in.
    As far as hard components go, slaves are easy to change, masters not so much.
    But even changing a master isn't that difficult, just time consuming due to where it lives.
    Hard lines should generally last forever unless not treated with proper respect
    (line wrenches instead of vice grips) or are exposed to nasty elements (road salt).

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