newbie needs advice re: brakes and transmission

[beubanks]

Hello...
I picked up an 87 2wd automatic in NC a bit ago knowing it would need some work. However, in the past week it's taken a turn for the worse. pretty much needs a front brake rebuild (nice local guy, friend of a friend so he's on the up and up, will do this for $700) and this is likely something I could handle myself anyhow. bigger problem is the transmission seems to be going out. In the last week, it's had a harder and harder time shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd (fine once it's in 3rd, and this is still the case). And, when in drive, but stopped, it jumps every 10 to 20 seconds, just rearing to go!, but I know this isn't a good sign. Same guy recommends a rebuild, which he won't do for some reason. Anyhow, since I paid $1200 for this van, I can't really imagine sinking $2000 into it, and I'm really too much of an amateur mechanic to do this entire job myself. Any advice on what might be possible short of a rebuild on the tranny?
thanks!
bryan

[timsrv]

Brakes are pretty straight forward and can be done inexpensively if you do it yourself. A good source for parts is www.rockauto.com. Cost will depend on how many parts are bad. If you don't know history, then I'd probably replace the calipers just to be sure. If you're doing the rear too, then replace the rear wheel brake cylinders with the shoes. Rotors and drums will depend on wear. Probably not a bad idea to take these parts to an automotive machinist to have them surfaced. It's part of the machinists job to measure these before surfacing, so if they're bad he'll tell you to get new ones.

I'm no expert on auto transmissions, but I'll share with you what I know. When an auto transmission gives you trouble, the 1st thing to do is check the fluid. Make sure it comes up to the "full" mark on the dipstick (with engine running and transmission in park). Sniff the fluid on the dipstick to see if it smells burnt (it's a bit overwhelming, so if it's burnt, you will know). If that looks good, check the kick-down cable (it's the cable going to the top side of your throttle body and it has an orange silicone sleeve). Watch this cable when you step on the gas pedal. Make sure it stays tight in it's trough and retracts inside the sleeve when you take your foot off the gas. If that looks okay, then take the cable off the throttle body and manually pull it, then make sure it retracts on it's own. Finally, if all that checks out okay then take the drain pan off the transmission and check for metal particles. Take the drain pan (still wet in the bottom with ATF) and hold it in the light. Now shift it slowly (to change the way the light hits it). If you can see little specs of light glimmering (like looking at a metallic flake paint job), then your transmission is messed up.

Check this stuff out and report back. If the transmission is bad, I would recommend finding a good used one. They are probably hard to find in your area but they are still around here in the NW. Last automatic transmission I purchased was about a year ago. I got it from a pick-n-pull salvage yard for $165.00. It can be a gamble, but I always do the above checks before purchasing. So far (knock on wood) I've never gotten a bad one. Good luck. Tim

PS: The salvage yards drain the fluid out before putting them in the yard, so don't expect it to be full of ATF.

[beubanks]

Thanks Tim,
I forgot to mention that the transmission does have a leak, right behind the pan there is fairly steady leak so I've been keeping fluid in it. But the fluid doesn't smell, and I was going to try replacing the pan gasket too, so I"ll check for metal then (tomorrow probably). Checking the kick-down cable, everything seems okay, there is some smoke that comes from the engine when revved though. Anyhow, I'll post back more conclusive results tomorrow. Seems like I can get brake parts for under $200, so if I can solve this tran problem, I might just go for it, otherwise I'll have to sell this lovely thing.

bryan

Brakes are pretty straight forward and can be done inexpensively if you do it yourself. A good source for parts is www.rockauto.com. Cost will depend on how many parts are bad. If you don't know history, then I'd probably replace the calipers just to be sure. If you're doing the rear too, then replace the rear wheel brake cylinders with the shoes. Rotors and drums will depend on wear. Probably not a bad idea to take these parts to an automotive machinist to have them surfaced. It's part of the machinists job to measure these before surfacing, so if they're bad he'll tell you to get new ones.

I'm no expert on auto transmissions, but I'll share with you what I know. When an auto transmission gives you trouble, the 1st thing to do is check the fluid. Make sure it comes up to the "full" mark on the dipstick (with engine running and transmission in park). Sniff the fluid on the dipstick to see if it smells burnt (it's a bit overwhelming, so if it's burnt, you will know). If that looks good, check the kick-down cable (it's the cable going to the top side of your throttle body and it has an orange silicone sleeve). Watch this cable when you step on the gas pedal. Make sure it stays tight in it's trough and retracts inside the sleeve when you take your foot off the gas. If that looks okay, then take the cable off the throttle body and manually pull it, then make sure it retracts on it's own. Finally, if all that checks out okay then take the drain pan off the transmission and check for metal particles. Take the drain pan (still wet in the bottom with ATF) and hold it in the light. Now shift it slowly (to change the way the light hits it). If you can see little specs of light glimmering (like looking at a metallic flake paint job), then your transmission is messed up.

Check this stuff out and report back. If the transmission is bad, I would recommend finding a good used one. They are probably hard to find in your area but they are still around here in the NW. Last automatic transmission I purchased was about a year ago. I got it from a pick-n-pull salvage yard for $165.00. It can be a gamble, but I always do the above checks before purchasing. So far (knock on wood) I've never gotten a bad one. Good luck. Tim

PS: The salvage yards drain the fluid out before putting them in the yard, so don't expect it to be full of ATF.

[beubanks]

okay, so I checked all of this except for the pan, because when I topped off the transmission fluid (it was a little low), the behavior pretty much stopped. A little lag shifting to 3rd, but the lurching while idling in gear stopped, and 1st to 2nd seemed pretty normal. Here is a picture of my leak. Excuse my ignorance but it's at the joint right behind the pan. Could it be coming from the pan, new gasket seal? Or is it safe to assume there is a seal inside of this silver joint that is leaking? Would be great if this is simple of course! I still hear some clanking around in there though....

truth be told I probably can't take on a huge project with this, so I might post it up for sale... its in really nice shape otherwise..

thanks for the help!

[timsrv]

Yeah, transmissions resent being run low and ATF and will retaliate by doing what yours did. That looks like a tail shaft seal leak. Those are typically pretty easy to replace. You could do yourself but you'll need a seal puller to get the old one off and a driver to get the new one back on. Rather than buying that stuff or trying to scrounge up/make something I'd probably just take it into a transmission shop. The seal is about $10 and labor to install shouldn't be more than 1 hr. Depending on their hourly rate I'd suspect you're looking at around $100 - $150 tops. Good luck. Tim