It looks like the window switch for the passenger side is available 84810-32050 replaced by 84810-30130 for $18 on ebay not OEM and $71.93 at Toyota Parts Zone
It looks like the window switch for the passenger side is available 84810-32050 replaced by 84810-30130 for $18 on ebay not OEM and $71.93 at Toyota Parts Zone
Got switches off the 88 van in Tacoma pick n pull. Driver side switch was out of the door, but it looked recent because it was sitting on the floor of the passenger front floor. Plugged them in to my van and NOTHING!
I know my window motors work because I can jump power from the battery to the proper wires and the windows go up or down.
Couple of questions. Will the window switch on the passenger side WORK if the drivers side switch it bad? Or does the passenger switch depend on some sort of circuit connection from the drivers switch ,,,and if it does,does anyone know what wires I need to bridge on the drivers side connection to make the passenger switch work?
anyone know where I can get a drivers master switch that works?
Anyone know where I can get manual window regulators and door trim so I can switch out my electric ones?
If you reference the above diagram you can see the PS side switch gets it's ground from the DS switch. If the contacts are messed up on the DS switch (for the PS window) and/or the child lock-out switch is damaged, then the PS window will not work. Same goes for the wires that travel from one door to the other. Usual trouble spots are where they flex in the hinge areas. Over the course of 25 years these wires fatigue and break inside the insulation. If the switches are good, then the next most likely fault is the red/blue & green/blue wires where they bend in the driver's door hinge area. If it's a wire creating the fault it could be either door, but since driver's doors usually get used over twice as much as passenger doors, this is where I would check 1st. One way to test for this is to pull both switches to expose the wires, then while observing color coding, jump a new temporary wire from one switch to the other. Example: If you find jumping the green/blue from one switch to the other solves the problem, then that's the wire run & all it's connections you want to focus on. Tim
Chester, I just found this new thread you started. Since it's directly related to this one I deleted it & I'm quoting your post here. In order to help you solve your issue it's important to have all the information. In my previous post I was under the impression that everything worked except the PS window (evidently the problem has gotten worseOriginally Posted by Chester
). Since nothing works now, this is an important clue, but probably just an additional issue to the original problem.
The common link for both power windows & sunroof is the "power main relay" & the "20A pwr circuit breaker" (top left of the above schematic). The relay is probably good, but I suspect you tripped the breaker. The breaker is located behind the glove box. It's not labeled in the picture below, but it's the one directly above the one that says "rear blower reset button". Yours may or may not have a yellow face, but it will have a little hole in it for resetting if tripped. Just take a paperclip or something small enough to enter that hole & push it in. If you hear a metallic click, it was tripped and you just reset it.
Here's a figure from the service manual that also shows the position of this breaker and position of the "power main relay". Tim
Reset works for sunroof motor.
Plugged " new to me" window switches in and it worked just long enough to bring the drivers window part way down, then nothing. I know why that van was in the pick n pull! The electric window switches didn't work!
i think these van should come with a paper clip.
I bought a plug into the cigarette lighter gizmo that had a switch and a red and black wires- designed to power auxilliaries. I was thinking that I could just plug it into the correct places on the driver or passenger door connectors- temporary fix- apply power window comes down, unhook, apply power window goes up, unhook - easier than jumping the switches from the battery, I could do it without leaving the front of the van) until I could find a master switch drivers door switch. When I use it, it will bring windows down but not up, But jumping off the battery will bring windows up. So not the best temporary fix. I guess windows up takes more power. I bought the passenger switch mentioned above off ebay, I have a spare passenger switch, I am sure as I can be without a voltmeter that it is my driver door master switch that is bad. What wire should I jump on the driver door connector to make my passenger switch work ( complete the ground)? I really would like to have one front window that works as it is finally summer here in the pacific NW and hot for us. Did I mention my A/C doesn't work?
On your driver's door master switch (for the PS window) white/black wire supplies ground to the switch. When the switch is not being messed with, it allows ground to pass through the terminals with the red/blue wire & the the green/blue wire. If it's the driver's door master switch that's preventing the PS window from working, you can bypass the switch by simply applying ground to the red/blue & red/green wires there..........then the PS door switch should be able to raise & lower the window.
Since you've already tried more than one switch, I'm thinking it's more likely a wire or wires in a door jam area that's messed up. Tim
Despite my many skills, I am an electrical idiot. My original switch broke and I have tried an additional switch that had been pulled out of the door that I got from a junk yard. I am thinking it was already broken, which is why it was not actually attached to the van.
So I am not sure I think it is a wire hiding deep, I think I have had 2 bad switches, which is what happened to me when I replaced the speedometer cable, the first one I pulled was bad, the second was fine.
Being an electrical idiot, if I run a wire from white/black connector to red/blue connector and from white/black to green/blue connector on the driver side master switch female connector would that complete the ground so my passenger switch will work? I have a couple of paper clips. Or do I also need to connect green/blue to red/ blue on driver side master switch female connector?
Yes, assuming the white/black is actually supplying ground, this should work. If you're leaving the driver's door switch hooked up while this bypass is in place, be careful not to engage it as it will short out if you do. One other curious thing, I noticed this diagram (taken from the wire schematic section of the 87 Factory Service Manual) does not show the child lock feature (the button on the driver's door switch to prevent PS window operation). This being the case, I have no idea what wires to connect to bypass that switch. But try this 1st.
An alternate & more direct way to bypass the DS master switch would be to put ground to the red/blue & green/blue wires on the PS switch. If you do that, you're bypassing both of these wires from both door jams. So even if one or both of these wires is broken it won't matter. If you have both of these wires grounded at the PS switch, you don't need them anymore, so you can cut them to prevent a short in case the driver's side switch is depressed. Tim
I couldn't take it anymore. Opening and closing the front windows by jumping off the battery was a PITA. I went to picknpull, bought a couple of manual window regulators, took a ton of photos of what they looked like installed and then proceeded to uninstall them. Learned a few things.
1. Go ahead and remove the lower service panel in the door. You will drop something down there.
2. Even though the shop manual from Toyota tells you to take the mirror off, don't. The window comes out without removing the mirror.
3. Mark the door from the photos you took. Electric window motors/ regulators attach in totally diffent places than manual window regulators.
Now I need to find some decent trim panels. Until then, a cut out piece of plywood will have to do.
it's nice having front windows that roll down!
is there a way to do passenger window switch? i tried to bypassing the d/s switch and still nothing. thanks!
Yes, just unplug the switch from the harness, then use a couple jumper wires with spades to interconnect the harness terminals for Blue/Red to Red/Blue, then use the 2nd jumper wire to interconnect the terminals Blue/White to Green/Blue. With these terminals connected, the switch on the driver's door should operate the P/S window. Tim
thanks tim!
i actually got it working before i saw your post. i ended up taking apart both d/s and p/s switches and cleaned them. a bit of sand paper, electrical cleaner, and bam!! passenger window works.
as an added bonus, by door locks work every single time now
So just take switches out sand terminals and should fix the problem?
Are you using any dielectric grease? Would that even help?
Yea just use some fine grit fans paper. 400 grit should be fine.
Do do not use grease!!!!!
i tried to use grease the first time and the gunk turned into black stuff again within a week and caused the contact to fail again.
Right now now my windows and door locks still work. Just lightly sanded and no grease. Good luck!
Thank you for you help I got the windows to work perfectly but how do you take the in-dash door lock switch out to clean it?
Main pretty new to these vans and I'm not sure chich switch you are talking about. My door locks are all on the door panel on the drivers side switches. Maybe there is a different setup?
Oh ok see on my 86 the door lock switch is located on the dash next to the door
I tried to get to it to clean it as well but couldn't find a way
hay tim where are the relays located in the 1989 le? i have similar problem. I played with it so much now that both sides don't go up or down on either switch. Started with driver side and i tried to jump the driver side window with the passenger window and I think i fried something. no power coming into the switch at all now.
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