overheating, looking for input

[User1]

I always get OEM Toyota radiator hoses. I've seen some of the aftermarket ones that allegedly fit the vans, and ... well, at least some of what's out there doesn't even come close to fitting.

Gwen

I ended up with getting Gates hoses and a cap at Rockauto. I got this boundless energy that it's all gona work out!

[timsrv]

IMHO I think Gates is just as good as Toyota. Toyota fits slightly better (no trimming required) but I believe the quality of both is without question. As for pricing, if you use a discount Toyota parts site (like www.1sttoyotaparts.com) they are about the same. Tim

[User1]

IMHO I think Gates is just as good as Toyota. Toyota fits slightly better (no trimming required) but I believe the quality of both is without question. As for pricing, if you use a discount Toyota parts site (like www.1sttoyotaparts.com) they are about the same. Tim

I ended up just passing on replacing the upper and lower hoses. They're in good shape and I really don't want to start looking for things to do to the van. I did replace the radiator cap though! I'm just going to save the Gates flex hose replacements in the van and have them for any needed repairs.

[timsrv]

If you're talking about flex-hoses I take back what I said. I hate flex hoses............I was talking about their formed hoses and bulk heater hoses. Tim

[User1]

If you're talking about flex-hoses I take back what I said. I hate flex hoses............I was talking about their formed hoses and bulk heater hoses. Tim

I hate these flex hoses too! Fortunutely they weren't too expensive. It would have been nice if they were the molded hoses. I might have changed them then! I'll spend a little more time on researching these two hoses!

[timsrv]

I guess I lied earlier (regarding prices). If you get at Rock Auto the Gates are cheaper. There is however their ridiculous shipping calculator, so end price will likely be comparable. Here's the part numbers with current pricing. Gates info is copy/paste from Rock Auto, Toyota info is copy/paste from www.1stToyotaParts.com. Toyota is ready to install, Gates may require some trimming to get the "almost proper" fit. Keep in mind 2wds & 4wds use different hoses........except the Gates, I think the uppers are interchangeable from one to another (just a little more trimming depending on which one you're working on). Tim


GATES Part # 21173 Molded Coolant Hose; 1 1/4" x 21 13/16" Does Not Contain Spring
Cut to fit; Lower; 4WD $15.72

GATES Part # 21737 Molded Coolant Hose; 1 5/16" x 22" Does Not Contain Spring
Upper
Cut to Fit; Upper $12.85

HOSE, RADIATOR, 4wd Lwr [Part# 1657273040]
Toyota
List Price:$36.49
Your Price:$26.33


HOSE, RADIATOR, 4wd Upper [Part# 1657173050]
Toyota
List Price:$36.49
Your Price:$26.33

[User1]

Tim,

Is there anyway of checking if they replaced the radiator in my van with a more common 2wd radiator? Do the two radiators inter-change easily? Just examining how everything fits and stuff, it looks like it's the stock radiator in it.

I'm lost in what can still be causing my overheating. I got about 10 miles yesterday, which is an improvement! It started to get hotter, but fortunately I had to stop. I would be F'ed if I had to climb a hill yesterday! I can list all the things done so far and the condition of practically everything on it.

I do have the thing being stuck in 3 gear some days. Yesterday was one of them. I just never know if I got 4th gear or not. Some days yeah, others no. And this is after I discounted the sensor on the engine block.

[JRSJ]

Is there anyway of checking if they replaced the radiator in my van with a more common 2wd radiator? Do the two radiators inter-change easily?

2WD rads are different from 4WD ones, and are not interchangeable.

[JRSJ]

Don't mind me chiming in, as I'm a little late to the party. I need to check the 4WD part of the forum more often.

Something is bugging me about the fact you're still overheating even after replacing those parts. Have you tried running the van with the rad cap off to operating temp and watching for bubbles appearing at the filler neck? Forgive me if you've already done this, just its the easiest way to see if you have HG issues.

[timsrv]

You could probably put a 2wd radiator in there if you removed your front differential . The reason the 4wd radiators are different is because the differential is in the way (radiators are shorter on 4wd vans).

Did you check out the threads I linked you to earlier? Sounds like it's time to do an HC test on your cooling system. Tim

[User1]

Don't mind me chiming in, as I'm a little late to the party. I need to check the 4WD part of the forum more often.

Something is bugging me about the fact you're still overheating even after replacing those parts. Have you tried running the van with the rad cap off to operating temp and watching for bubbles appearing at the filler neck? Forgive me if you've already done this, just its the easiest way to see if you have HG issues.

Hey JR,

I haven't done this. I can do this tomorrow and report back.

Thanks,

[User1]

Did you check out the threads I linked you to earlier? Sounds like it's time to do an HC test on your cooling system. Tim

I reread the threads and can almost recite the text. I've reread it again before posting just now.

I'm thinking this test kit can be used to do the pressure testing? It's available for free via Autozone. I just have to return it in one piece. Doing the HC test will be next. I'll call some local auto repair places and see what Napa has for this.

The thing that stopped me from doing the HC test is that except for the overheating, the van is running quite well. I haven't taken it to any mechanics yet but the dude that did the smog test, was impressed with the van and told me it's running quite well. Oh and it passed the smog test no problem.

[timsrv]

The pressure test kit can be useful if you have unexplained loss of coolant. If it's not leaking or losing any, then you probably don't need it. If there's HC's in the cooling system, then that's a good indication of a slowly leaking head-gasket. IMO the 2wd van cooling system is just barely big enough, and the 4wd has an even smaller radiator. This means it's gotta flow & transfer heat at top performance just to do the minimum job of keeping the van cool. If you have doubts about the radiator, take it into a radiator shop. They will remove a tank and inspect / rod it out for under $100 (assuming it's not rotten). At least then you'll know it's not that.

I know you've already done a lot (and probably already posted about it), but I just wanted to confirm you've replaced the thermostat and tested the clutch fan. Could you hear it roar and take some horsepower when the needle started climbing beyond the 1/2 way mark? You've also verified the coolant is up to the top of the filler cap too......right?

[User1]

I know you've already done a lot (and probably already posted about it), but I just wanted to confirm you've replaced the thermostat and tested the clutch fan. Could you hear it roar and take some horsepower when the needle started climbing beyond the 1/2 way mark? You've also verified the coolant is up to the top of the filler cap too......right?

Hey Tim, OK so here's the recap on all done and status,

Waterpump - Duralast made in Japan, life time warranty
Fan clutch - Hayden made in USA life expectancy of the clutch is 60,00 miles or 5 years
T-stat - Toyota part and replaced documented above
Radiator - has "9-13-07JC" on it and 1 gallon of 100% coolant plus water
Radiator cap - replaced with Gates cap
Hoses - upper and lower look good, I've replaced others and documented, hose of death replaced somewhere in it's life (pic above)
Heater is blowing out good hot air (even though one of my controls levers for "hot" doesn't work that well)


I'll be doing JR's suggestion and yours today and get back. I don't have a torch to do your test, but I'll work with what I have. I'll take a look again at the coolant and see where it's at. I'll look today for the HC test.

[skibum]

User1,

You mentioned that your "hot" lever doesn't work. If you go under the front of the van, there is a valve there that can hang up. Take a channel-lock or something and wiggle it back and forth. They can get gummed, so if you free it up at the valve, the cable will have an easier time actuating the valve for temp control.

[User1]

User1,

You mentioned that your "hot" lever doesn't work. If you go under the front of the van, there is a valve there that can hang up. Take a channel-lock or something and wiggle it back and forth. They can get gummed, so if you free it up at the valve, the cable will have an easier time actuating the valve for temp control.

Hey skibum,

Thanks for the response. I'm somewhat new to the TV and have a bit trouble navigating around it. Is there anyway to give more info on to where exactly is this valve? Sounds like I got to disconnect the valve then wiggle it?

[User1]

JR,

Looks like there's bubbling happening at the radiator cap. There was always gasses coming out as the video shows.


http://youtu.be/SvM9C7JzbgM


http://youtu.be/qXHWbPhko9U


@Tim,

Oh and I called 3 Napa stores in the area. One didn't know what I was talking about and had nothing for checking the checking for Hydro Carbons in the cooling system. Another referred me to this item, the third referred me to this item. I'm assuming that is the item you are referring to (3rd item)? I called the radiator shops in my town and surrounding area. There's one that has been servicing the area since '38 and he did sound like he knew his business. He's charging $25 for checking for hydro carbons.

[timsrv]

I don't like the looks of that. You could have a small compression leak into the cooling system. Get the HC test. The Block Tester (the one the 3rd Napa store suggested) is the one I've used. It works. If you don't like other people touching your stuff or if you think you might be doing this again someday, then that might be the way to go. If you trust the shop and don't care to ever do this again then I'd probably just pay them to test it.

[skibum]

Hey skibum,

Thanks for the response. I'm somewhat new to the TV and have a bit trouble navigating around it. Is there anyway to give more info on to where exactly is this valve? Sounds like I got to disconnect the valve then wiggle it?

If you look under the front of the van, you'll see a cable hooked in to an actuator lever. The bracket is mounted horizontally and the valve is inline in the heater hose. It will make sense when you look in there.

[User1]

Interesting info on the coolant capacity here,

Coolant capacity (w/ Heater):
2WD w/o Rear heater
7.9 liters (8.3 US qts, 7.0 Imp.qts)
w/ Rear heater
8.4 liters (8.9 US qts, 7.4 Imp.qts)
4WD w/o Rear heater
7.0 liters (7.4 US qts, 6.2 Imp. qts)
w/ Rear heater
7.5 liters (7.9 US qts, 6.6 Imp. qts)