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Thread: Changing the fuel filter

  1. #1
    Van Enthusiast User1's Avatar
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    Changing the fuel filter

    Anyone has some tips on changing the fuel filter? Man that bolt was on there tight, but once I got it loose, fuel everywhere. OK not everywhere, but it was leaking. I guess first thing I'll do next time is do it with a empty tank of gas. Kinda hard to do when I just drive the van a mile and it's getting hot. I'll work on just emptying the tank.

    Any other tips?

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    I usually pull the EFI fuse and try to start it to depressurize the system. Loosening the gas cap can relieve any additional pressure. Either way, a little bit will leak out.

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    Quote Originally Posted by kcg795 View Post
    ...........Loosening the gas cap can relieve any additional pressure. Either way, a little bit will leak out.
    This is key. Always loosen the gas cap before changing the fuel filter. The fuel in the filter and residual fuel in the rail will leak out no matter what, but if you loosen the fuel cap, even a full tank won't leak. Just don't let the lower filter line hang down as it's possible to get the siphon effect going. Tim

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    I had that happen when I took my sweet time changing my headgasket.

  5. #5
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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    Woooo doggie!!!! I guess that's what I got to look forward to working on this van!!!

    Something as, supposedly simple as changing the fuel filter was anything but! I didn't know I had to take the bracket off after getting the top bolt off, but yeah, you do. And the bottom bolt is just the same as the top bolt. It's top bolt, bracket and bottom bolt. Putting it back together is bottom bolt, kinda get everything lined up and finger tighten on the bracket. Then get the top bolt started on to your filter. After it's started, work at getting your bracket lined up and tightened. Then tighten the the top bolt. The two bolts going into the filter are TIGHT and take a 17mm socket. I used a torque-wrench to break them and tighten them on the new filter. They must be on it tight. You're crushing crush-washers.

    What's needed tools wise is;
    19mm open-end wrench
    17mm socket w/ breaker bar or similar
    12mm socket
    10mm socket or wrench
    Some blocks where you can stop the wrench from turning when torquing
    Tip, the bracket is not part of the OEM filter

    Thanks for the help here. I posted my feedback so anyone following could have a tenderfoot's impressions.
    And no, you didn't die and are in hell now!
    Be strong! You got other work to do on the van!

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    Ahhhh, the dreaded fuel filter. When I did mine it was hot out, and exposure to the vapours ended up giving me the worst nose/throat infection ever.

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    does the filter come with new crush washers?

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    OE Toyota ones do............not sure about aftermarket. Tim

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    Do I need a flare wrench or will open end suffice?

  10. #10
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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    You can use a socket/ratchet as these are banjo bolts. 6 point sockets will offer the best grip (if available). Open end wrench is good for back-up. Tim

    Quote Originally Posted by timsrv View Post

    The fuel filter is on the passenger side of the engine between the distributor and the oil filter (see arrow in picture below):


    This is a big filter so unless you have a contaminated fuel system it should only need to be replaced at 60,000 mile intervals. To access and replace you must 1st remove the passenger side seat, center console and engine access panel. Before you remove any lines, loosen the fuel cap enough to release pressure from the system. When pressure is gone use a 6 point 17mm socket on the top banjo bolt and remove. After that's off use a 12mm socket with an extension to remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the block. The lower fuel line is flexible, so once the bracket bolts are removed the filter can be maneuvered to a position favorable to access the lower fitting. Again, a 6 point 17mm socket will fit the banjo bolt, but since the filter is loose you'll also need a 19mm open end wrench to back things up (counter torque). Tim

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    THank you Tim

  12. #12
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    Which fuel filter is right for my van?

    Does anyone know the correct part number for the fuel filter for a 1987 4x4 Toyota van? I was given a Fram G6495 which is shown to be the correct filter on several web sites. But the banjo bolts from my engine are 17mm and the fuel inlet/outlet holes in this fram filter are too small for them. I called a couple Toyota dealers who say their part number is 23300 79055. This cross references to the Fram G6495 which I know to be wrong. Is the Toyota part the right one? If so, why does it cross reference to the Fram filter which is wrong?

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    Smile Re: Changing the fuel filter

    It turns out the Fram filter I bought is the right one. There are hollow rubber plugs in the inlet and outlet holes which had deceived me into thinking the holes were smaller. The plugs must be there to protect the threads prior to installation.

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    Hey! Did your FRAM filter come with crush washers? If not, does anyone know the part number for correct size crush washers? I've been burned by incorrect supplied ones before

    Also, anyone care to weigh in on the hastings or wix filters on rockauto? Dirt cheap but no mention of crush washers

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    The FRAM G6475 filer came with washers but they are not crush washers. I looked at a Duralast filter #FF654DL (also the right one for the van) but it also came with plain washers, not crush washers. I plan to go to my local ACE hardware store tomorrow to buy 4 crush washers for the install. I'll bring one of the banjo bolts with me so I can be sure to get the right size. After all the work I did on removing the old filter I wouldn't want to take a chance on plain washers as I'd worry they might leak gas.

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    I think you will find that those "plain" washers are actually aluminum crush washers.
    I prefer the copper type myself, but the supplied ones will work too.

  17. #17
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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    My WIX came with washers, but I wasn't able to remove my old filter because the bracket was in the way, or something odd where my socket wouldn't fit on and no wrench I had would ninja in there. I suspected later that it was just my fatter than normal impact-socket that was fouling me up, and maybe a thin-wall socket would have done the job. A job for a later date, the book suggests the filter is good for a really long time.

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    Quote Originally Posted by timsrv View Post
    You can use a socket/ratchet as these are banjo bolts. 6 point sockets will offer the best grip (if available). Open end wrench is good for back-up. Tim
    Hey Tim, is the torque spec for the banjo bolts important or should I just make them real dang tight? Can't fn the spec in the service manual. Thanks!

  19. #19
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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    I don't believe there is a torque spec in the manual for this, but I never tried to look it up so who knows. With crush washers it's a feel you develop. Once snug you should crank it down until the washers have slightly collapsed (conformed and sealed). Here's a good rule of thumb "if it leaks it's not tight enough. If it breaks it's too tight. ). Tim

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    Re: Changing the fuel filter

    Thanks Tim! I ended up just torquing them down real tight and the top crush washer squished quite a lot, to the point I was a little worried I overdid it but she ran for 20 minutes with no leaking I could see! Makes me a little nervous not being able to see the underside while the van's running though. I had to use a crescent wrench for counter-torque as I don't have a 19mm open end wrench handy and it made things a little more interesting!

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