I had someone else riding with me and they said they smell exhaust in the cab. I think it might actually be happening. How can I track it down and figure out how this is happening?
I had someone else riding with me and they said they smell exhaust in the cab. I think it might actually be happening. How can I track it down and figure out how this is happening?
This is only a new problem for you, it has been covered in many threads, over the years, doing a search will answer all your questions.
In the meantime, exhaust leaking into the cab can only happen if: there is an exhaust leak AND a point of entry into the cabin.
Exhaust manifolds are known to crack, EGR modulator's have been known to melt, downpipes flange gaskets can fail.
A leak anywhere in the system can contribute to fume ingress
As far as "entry points" go, the hood seal has been an issue in many circumstances, less common but still a possibility, the rear hatch gasket.
This all assumes that there are no rust holes in the body or floor.
This is a priority repair as it is a serious health issue, humans dont function well when breathing carbon monoxide or dioxide
The only post I've been able to find that seems related is this one:
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...hp/t-1260.html
Is this what you mean by hood seal?
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...033325001.html
I can't quite tell where that is installed.
I think I might see the problem. The pb stands for parking brake, so the parking brake boot is missing. How do I get one?
Sorry, I wasn't clear.
Several threads on exhaust manifolds and their tendency to crack and leak, same for EGR system problems.
The whole exhaust system needs to be sound.
The hood is the thing below the drivers seat (LHD vans) and on the underside of the hood is a thick molded rubber seal.
If its damaged it WILL allow fumes into the cabin.
If you can't see any visual damage, do the paper test.
Open the hood and put the paper over the seal, close hood and latch then try to pull the paper out, it should at least be difficult.
I use standard printer paper, full width is fine on long stretches without contours (like the back door)
Corners and twisty bits are easier to judge if you cut the paper into strips of appropriate size.
If the back door doesn't seal well, that too can be a source of fumes into the vehicle. (same test applies)
The cables for the PB and trans control have rubber grommets where the cables pass thru the access panel.
The PB boot in the thread referenced is just a finisher, not a seal
jfenwick,
I have this same issue but only when I have one or both front windows down. I know for a fact there are gaps in the rear door weather seal due to body damage. I assume that when the windows are down, enough suction is created to pull the fumes from the tail pipe into the cab area. The weather seal gaps at the rear door will be corrected soon but if this does not resolve it I will get it tracked down.
PrecisionDriven, I did take the panel off the back door when I was repairing the wiring and it doesn't seem to want to mount on the door again. Is that the part that went bad on your van? Or is there some sort of sealer that is between the back door and the part of the van it closes against that deteriorated?
In my case it is the the main rubber "gasket" rear door seal that keeps rain and air from entering the vehicle from the outside. I'm not certain what the official term is for it is, but I just call it a weather seal (weather stripping). Since my rear hatch was damaged in an accident, there are large gaps near the exhaust pipe and driver side edges.
I found a old photo of the hood seal, its been sold long ago-
JDM
The "Hood Seal" is part no. 58435-87001 (OBS. PACKING, ENGINE MAIN.) and long discontinued. If you need one, you'll likely need to pull one from a parts yard or figure out how to come up with some sort of repair.Originally Posted by jfenwick
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote