Van Starting Emergency!

[89van]

So today this morning I tried to start my van but to no avail; when I turned the key to start it would click and nothing happened. At 4:22 PM though, i tried to start it again and the following happened:

I put the accelerator down a bit, not much, and the van started at very low RPMs, it wouldn't reach idling rpms only going up when I pressed the accelerator still by not much, white smoke started blowing to the front from the tailpipe because of wind and i shut it off right there.

This had never happened before...
Very afraid to attempt restarting it as I post this. What happened and did i potentially do something bad?

[89van]

Well today I attempted starting it and it fired right up like nothing happened. Ran and drove around town like a top... resolved I suppose?

[MarkH]

The white smoke and low idle was probably caused by the engine being flooded with fuel from the previous attempts to start it. The same thing happened to me and I eventually had to let it sit for a day to let the fuel in the cylinders dissipate. I did an oil change after since I was paranoid that all the excess fuel might have contaminated the oil. As for the clicking, probably starter solenoid contacts are due for replacement.

[89van]

The white smoke and low idle was probably caused by the engine being flooded with fuel from the previous attempts to start it... As for the clicking, probably starter solenoid contacts are due for replacement.

Ah, that sounds more like it. Was very worried something like the head gasket was affected because of the same symptoms of white smoke out the tailpipe. Well, relieving to know it wasn't that but just my own curiosity! Thanks!

[MarkH]

What I don't understand in my situation is that I thought that the fuel pump only runs when the airflow switch is on (from airflow pushing a flap open in the intake when the engine is turning over). When I tried starting and just heard a click, I could also hear the fuel pump running even though there was no air being drawn in to the engine. The cold start injector was probably spraying this fuel into the intake even though the engine wasn't starting causing the engine to flood.

[Headhunter38]

your situation sounds pretty similar to the ones ive experienced with my van recently. mine has done the same thing acouple of times, started very very rough and then would smooth out after giving it some gas for a few seconds. The times it has happened to me it was really hot outside, 100+. being you are in socal you are probably experiencing similar if not hotter temps than us up here in sac. was it really hot outside when this happened? it sounds similar to what ive read about the heat soak these vans suffer from where it smooths out after giving gas for a few seconds

What I don't understand in my situation is that I thought that the fuel pump only runs when the airflow switch is on (from airflow pushing a flap open in the intake when the engine is turning over).

do these vans not operate like more modern cars where the fuel pump comes on and primes the lines with the key turned just to the on position?

[MarkH]

I assumed the fuel pump air flow switch was a safety feature so if you get into an accident, the fuel pump doesn't keep running (since the ignition switch is still on) without airflow into the engine (like when it's running). Otherwise fuel could be spraying all over the place after an accident. There is a jumper connection in the engine bay that you can jumper to make the fuel pump run while bypassing the airflow switch (for testing and diagnostics). There is a check valve in the pump that should keep the lines primed with fuel for starting. When you are cranking over the engine, there is airflow into the cylinders so the pump starts and is supplying fuel pressure within a second or two.

[Burntboot]

The "no start" situation is fairly common.
There are many threads on the subject and nearly as many "fixes"

Occurs when the voltage to the trigger wire is insufficient.
Often times its just the copper contacts in the starter (Tim has a thread on that)
Many opt for running a new trigger wire to the starter, if the contact repair doesn't work.
I chose to trace the harness and cut out all the deteriorated splices (theres a thread on that, too)
(I had already worked thru all the other possibilities)
YMMV

The fuel pump fires momentarily, every time the key is turned and runs until line pressure is attained.
-if it loses pressure when sitting, it would present as an extended crank time, before firing.

Said another way, if you WERE experiencing an extended crank time prior to the click-click affair, it would be worth investigating the fuel system too,
as it may have contributed to the flooding event.

[MarkH]

The fuel pump fires momentarily, every time the key is turned and runs until line pressure is attained.
-if it loses pressure when sitting, it would present as an extended crank time, before firing.

Shouldn't the pump keep running while the engine is running? I would hope it doesn't shut off when pressure is attained. And how would it know when there is pressure? There is no pressure switch.

[Burntboot]

I thought we were just talking about the starting circuit.

I think* there's a start protocol that turns the pump on, until the other sensors come on line.
I do know you can hear the pump fire initially and I think* if you leave it in the on position, the pump will shut down, as opposed to keep running.
I also believe that once the engine fires, others protocols come into play (AFM?....)

But I am no expert in these matters, perhaps we can get someone like Vanco or Tim to stop by and explain it all, properly.
They've both done extensive write-ups on a lot of this stuff, maybe a deep dive into the blogs/articles/threads would provide enlightenment.


* too many vehicles/not enough memory,

[Mackd]

I just posted this on another thread. I had this same issue with my 88 4x4. It drove me nuts!!! It turned out to be the most unlikely problem and the fix was relatively inexpensive ($30 - $40 Rock Auto). I replaced the ignition starter switch (it's in the steering column). I had some wires that just decided to short out after I would drive for about 10/15 min. I had it towed to a really good mechanic and he could not figure out why my Van kept shutting off since I had replaced everything (coil, changed the igniter - had an extra, etc) No spark at all. I had already purchased the switch just in case so I took it over to him and we both came to the same conclusion at about the same time. I was working so he dropped it in for me. He said it started right up after installing it. One thing I forgot to mention is what prompted the tow to his shop. As mentioned, it would shut of after 10 min then start and I would drive it. One morning on my way to work it just died and would not start again..., at all! My mechanic gave me the old one and it was basically cooked due to age. The wires were brittle causing the switch to fail and kill power to the engine.