my front end thread

[Previologist]

The tire shop (the same one that cross-threaded my lugnut) told me my right outer tie rod was just starting to go bad months ago, but they said it wasn't of immediate concern so I postponed it. Since i'm not well versed in front end diagnosis I watched a youtube video, and based on that I ordered both outer tie rods. Then I watched a better video and decided I may not have driver side tie rod problems at all but I most definitely have a right INNER tie rod problem. It's kind of hard to diagnose the outer when the inner is bad, without a helper or without disconnecting it. Since i already bought the outer I might as well replace it with the inner.

Anyway do you need a special tool for inner tie rod on Previas? I haven't taken off the little access cover to a good look at it yet. I am going to take it to an alignment shop and have them diagnosis whatever else may be wrong, and then fix it all myself before getting an alignment.

[Jonny]

When I did my inners a few years ago a mechanic friend loaned me his personal tool. It was awesome and made the job fairly straightforward. I recall thinking that a tool like this was essential to avoid otherwise inevitable nightmarish scenarios involving the copious discharge of profanity and blood. The tool was a self-adjusting Matco inner tie rod tool ITRT299. It no longer seems to be available and I bet it was expensive. Maybe ebay? I'm sure there are other similar tools which work well, but this one comes recommended by me - a suspension 101 student.

[Previologist]

Sounds like I better make friends with a mechanic.


Well its the summer of blood anyway. i can't count the times I banged my head changing the clutch on my 4runner this spring...twice. And there might be a third time coming if that oil drip is coming from my brand new rear main seal. And other fun knuckle-busting jobs to come.

Harbor freight makes a reasonably priced tool https://www.harborfreight.com/inner-...set-58391.html
All depends on if I want to believe the 5 star reviews or the 1 star reviews.

I also found a cheaper Matco tool for "smooth" tie rod ends but I don't know if mine are smooth. I'm guessing no.
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/ITRT94?

Firestone charges 120 for an alignment and 20 for an inspection. I've read indie shops are more knowledgeable (which i suspected was the case) so I called one. Free inspection and 80 dollar alignment. Going for the inspection tomorrow so maybe i will sneak a good look at that inner tie rod end.

[man_btc]

i can't count the times I banged my head changing the clutch on my 4runner this spring...twice. And there might be a third time coming if that oil drip is coming from my brand new rear main seal.

Two words for ya. Bump Cap. Check them out on Home Depot for example. I've occasionally been told I wind up looking like Darth Vader with the PPE I tend to wear, but unlike Vader, I can take it off later and be fine.

And other fun knuckle-busting jobs to come.

One word. Ironclad Look for them on ebay for lower prices. Not for touch-sensitive work but great for still being able to count to 10 later without using your toes. (Yes, also steel-toed shoes/boots for anything determined to head straight through your feet into the ground).

If you're starting to wonder if I'm the type that puts "Watch Your Head" warning stickers near the floor adjacent to tables, drawers and over-the-edge table vises...yep.

For tie rod tools check out rentals at NAPA

Firestone (or Midas or whoever)

Hopefully well-rated, but in any case, tell them to do what you ask and Not. Touch. Anything. Else. You wouldn't be surprised how easy it is to break someone's old crustified plastic & rubber parts while moving and disconnecting stuff looking for extra "suggested maintenance" items to charge for. The quickie electrical-tape patch on your air intake - or whatever else they didn't reconnect or broke- is going to be the reason for the next check-engine-light.

And don't be surprised when when the kid looks at your my-friend's-mom-had-one-of-those van and says "How do you pronounce that? 'Pree-vee-yuh?'"

[Previologist]

Two words for ya. Bump Cap.

I was thinking "helmet." Actually most of the time I wore a gungy old thick hoodie to protect my noggin because I started the job in April and it was still pretty cool laying on the garage floor anyway. You can't imagine how much the edge of a mud flap can hurt. Or maybe you can.

One word. Ironclad

Yeah I had to wear nitrile gloves on the clutch job because there is so much oil everywhere from leaky everything. Fortunately there wasn't much knuckle-busting on that job. But I will definitely wear real gloves for the upcoming work.

If you're starting to wonder if I'm the type that puts "Watch Your Head" warning stickers near the floor adjacent to tables, drawers and over-the-edge table vises...yep.

I did that for a while after a traumatic experience when I could not concentrate or really function at all. Thankfully that improved some, but I'm still something of a head banger.

For tie rod tools check out rentals at NAPA

Nope, nobody seems to rent them.

I got the older more experienced guy at the shop and he said both outer tie rods are good (so glad I bought those already...grrr) and right lower ball joint are bad. Along with the left strut and inner right tie rod end, which i already knew. More fun awaits. I haven't done a ball joint in decades.

[man_btc]

I was thinking "helmet." Actually most of the time I wore a gungy old thick hoodie to protect my noggin because I started the job in April and it was still pretty cool laying on the garage floor anyway. You can't imagine how much the edge of a mud flap can hurt. Or maybe you can.

Yeah I had to wear nitrile gloves on the clutch job because there is so much oil everywhere from leaky everything. Fortunately there wasn't much knuckle-busting on that job. But I will definitely wear real gloves for the upcoming work.

I did that for a while after a traumatic experience when I could not concentrate or really function at all. Thankfully that improved some, but I'm still something of a head banger.

The ol'follicle-based konk-proximity sensors are pretty sparse these days and I had gone to a baseball cap, but after I came really close to needing stitches from a garage-door track, I discovered bump caps. They're very inexpensive, and akin to what you'd expect a kid's play-hardhat to look like - not good enough to protect against heavy falling objects, but fine against a bump against the edge of anything that could abrade, bruise or cut.
bumpcap.jpg
As for gloves for oily jobs that don't require a delicate touch, I use SAS Raven 2XL Nitriles over Mechanix gloves.

For dealing with rust dissolver and brake cleaner fumes plus 20+ years' of rusty debris from underneath, there's the Darth Previa getup. Beats a trip to the ER now or a pulminologist later.
Darth_Previa.jpg

[Previologist]

Cutting the sway bar links off of my rustbucket 4runner tonight, I was reminded several times why your silly idea of a bump cap might actually be a good idea, lol.

[13ozLatte]

I own the Harbor Freight inner tie rod tool, after a tool theft relieved me of my Matco one. I can say, it performs very well! Not sure if it would hold up to commercial use, but for occasional use, I've done probably 20 inner tie rods so far with no problems.

[Previologist]

Awesome, thanks for letting me/us know!

[Previologist]

Thanks to my accident, I was not able to do any front end work except accident repairs when I was home in my nice heated attached garage. I was hoping that I would be able to make it through the winter and replace my struts and other parts when I get back, but I don't think I should wait that long. I have to drive it on some pretty bumpy dirt roads where I am working in a not all that toasty part of the SW, and the left strut especially feels terrible. I think I now have to repair it outside, in cool but sunny temps, on a rather steeply sloped driveway. Fortunately I brought most of my tools, a trolley jack, and one cute little 1500 lb jack stand. I almost brought a chock block, but said naaahhhhh...fortunately there's a HF in town so I can grab one. Or two, for cheap.

I have to refresh my memory, reread websites and rewatch videos like

Changing Both Sides Front Shocks / Struts 1995 Previa [ Tarago Previa Estima TCR ] by Previa Legend - YouTube

(which I haven't actually watched yet)

Until then, what all do I need besides the struts? I'm just going with KYB struts, but do I also need the upper and lower spring insulators? I presume so, because they look old. What about spring seats, bumpers and strut mounts? Can I reasonably hope to get by with the old ones, or no? Thanks to the holidays I am on a strict budget until mid-late January, but I also need to have everything on hand (in case) because I need to make sure I get the job finished in a weekend. That might seem easy, but I'm good at making easy things take forever.

I am only going to attempt the left one for now, as it is in bad shape. Once I get that done I'll worry about the right.

[Previologist]

answering my own question after some research...yup, I'm gonna replace everything, possibly even the stabilizer link as long as I'm in there.

I hope it won't be too problematic for driving to do one side and then the other a bit later. I read that some people have camber issues after doing the job and I hope that I'm not one of them either...

[Previologist]

I guess I will save a few bucks and use the KYB mount too. I haven't heard of anyone having trouble with them, but if you have, speak up please!

[timsrv]

I haven't done inner tie rods on a Previa, but I have on a van. I'm guessing it's not that different. Once you get the billows off it should be pretty straight forward. I didn't use any special tools, I just used normal wire tires to hold the new billows in place and it worked good. As to the struts, here's an old thread that may be of some help: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...eady-need-help!!

[man_btc]

FWIW, FYI -

I replaced my front struts in 2019, had a shop remove the springs and install them on KYB "Excel-G" struts using these parts:

(KYB Parts from JCWhitney)

Shock absorber and Strut assemblies:
KY235040 Front Driver's
KY235039 Front Passenger's

Shock & Strut Mount
KYSM5090 x2

(Toyota Parts From Olathe Toyota at the time)

48157-28010 Insulator, Front Coil Spring Upper x2
48158-28010 Insulator, Front Coil Spring Lower x2
48304-28010 Strut Bumper x2


I went with this combo because I had seen a comment that Toyota sources the KYB struts but uses their own "open" bellows-boot that dries quickly as the closed KYB can hold water if it develops an exterior crack.

For stabilizer links, I used these:

(Aftermarket from NAPA)

265-1477 Left front stabilizer (sway bar) link
265-1478 Right front stabilizer (sway bar) link

[Previologist]

[...] here's an old thread that may be of some help: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...eady-need-help!!

Thanks yep, I already have that thread bookmarked. I've browsed it before but I'll read it again. I really hope to avoid doing the tie rods until I get back home because I would want 2 better jackstands, but I will be keeping a close eye on them. They were not very bad at last check.

I took off the lower drivers side dash panel today and found the strut mount bolts. Only one of them looks like it will be a real pain, but I'm going to try and crack them and retighten them in advance so everything goes smooth and quick on the day of the job. I will be cutting a slot in the brake line brackets so I don't have to open the brake lines. I may have to ride 20 miles on my bike with the strut assembly on my back unless I decide to rent spring compressors.

The left stabilizer link decision has been made for me. It is toast. I may even just change that first and see how much difference it makes. Maybe most of the racket is coming from that, although I know the strut is shot too.

[Previologist]

FWIW, FYI -

I replaced my front struts in 2019, had a shop remove the springs and install them on KYB "Excel-G" struts using these parts: [...]

Ah, thank you for that. I already sourced the parts and its good to know our numbers all match. That's exactly what I plan to do, except the left stabilizer link is still available so I may order that if shipping isn't excessive. It may be, because they are overseas.

[Previologist]

FWIW, FYI -


I went with this combo because I had seen a comment that Toyota sources the KYB struts but uses their own "open" bellows-boot that dries quickly as the closed KYB can hold water if it develops an exterior crack.

On 2nd read, I'm not sure what you mean by this. What is "boot"?

[man_btc]

The rubber skirt if you will that protects the top part of the strut. Here's the Toyota one which has a smooth surface, and another with ridges that I assume has the issue about water retention that was expressed.

20250112_124052.jpg

20250112_124135.jpg

[Previologist]

That's what I figured you were referring to, but that comes with the strut, doesn't it? Are you saying you switched out the KYB accordion boot for the original Yota boot from your old strut?

Since I haven't done this before its hard to know what I'm looking at, but the KYB doesn't seem to have the accordion boot. Is it just not showing in the pic, or did they change since 2019? I can't tell if that's a smooth boot or part of the shock in the pic

235039.jpg

[Previologist]

I just noticed for the first time that my good right side has the accordion boot, but the left side has the smooth one, now drenched with shock oil. .