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Thread: Suspension questions

  1. #21
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    Re: Suspension questions

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    I plan on replacing the entire control arm, I was kinda stumped on how to remove these 17mm bolts the other day when I inspected it. Are these the bolts that are easier to remove from inside the engine bay?
    (in the bottom 2 photos)
    That smells like regular! She needs premium DUDE! PREMIUM!

  2. #22
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    Re: Suspension questions

    -you get pretty good access on 2wd from above ...(under the seats)
    -make sure you "unload" the spring first, and mark your starting point on the double-nutted threaded spring adjusting stud so you can approximate where to crank the springs up to when you're done
    -I've always had good luck buying "loaded" control arms from aftermarket- and these "CentricName:  upper.jpg
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    -I took off a set of "KYB monotube" front shocks that had only 1600 miles on them because of their harshness on every road seam and bump ... now I'm using classic "Monroe gas matic plus" and it rides like a 1976 Cordoba (smooth!) ... (I want to impress my passengers, so, the smooth ride was necessary now that it's no longer a work van and I re-installed the swivelling captain's chairs and bench.).Name:  lower.jpg
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    this weekend we do the lowers !!!

  3. #23
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    Re: Suspension questions

    ...update -- the new Centric lower control arms are in --- they have a really accurate and beautiful fit at every attaching point
    ...going in for alignment tomorrow, however, I must say that "dropping" the van (not literally) off of the jack and back onto the garage floor once the wheels were back on was a pleasant experience. The van settled with NOT A SINGLE sound of any kind... no clack or cluck or creak anywhere-- just the muted rubbery sound of tires touching the ground

    --after a couple test-drives I'll be able to submit a final review of the new loaded lower control arms...Name:  installed.jpg
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  4. #24
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    Re: Suspension questions

    I wish this stuff was more available for the 4WDs.

    Hey just an FYI, and maybe you already knew this. It is generally recommended to tighten control arm pivot bushings with the suspension at rest in it's normally loaded position. This could be accomplished by leaving the bolts a couple turns loose and either setting it on the ground and then reaching under to give them final torque or by supporting it with jack stands as near to the tire as possible to mimic the normal loaded resting position of the bushing. If you tighten the pivot bushings with the suspension drooped and then lower the vehicle the bushing is in a constantly twisted state and will typically wear out faster.

  5. #25
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    Re: Suspension questions

    Thanks... good point.
    Yes, I left the big cam-bolts pretty loose, and, when everything else was finished being installed, I lifted each side of the van with an additional hydraulic jack under the brake rotor to simulate final ride height (one side at a time). Then I torqued down the control arm bolts last. I had all 4 of my jack-stands and the bigger hydraulic jack set up on the opposite side from where I was working for safety.

  6. #26
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    Re: Suspension questions

    Quick question, do you know what size and type of bolts are used fasten the shocks to the control arm? Went to get tires today and much to my surprise, I noticed my driver side shock is not fastened on the bottom.
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