You are SO right!! I kept checking myself over and over about "lefty loosey." From the driver's side, with the wrench straight up, I was pushing toward the passenger's side. They are TIIIIGHT! I will try the screwdriver and/or the belt method. I was thinking about wrapping an old leather belt around the housing to try and keep it still, but will try the methods you suggest first. Thanks very much.
Hello all,
I recently replaced my van's thermostat and waterpump, and am in the process of re-assembling the van.
After I put on the water pump and attached the adjusting bar, I noticed that there was a hole that I did not have a bolt for, and that I do not remember removing a bolt from. I was wondering if you all could take a look at this and see what you thought it was for, as I am stumped on this.
Here is what I'm looking at:
The hole is on the part where the thermostat housing connects.
Thanks for your help!
Looking at the diagrams in the manual, it doesn't seem like there is any apparent reason that hole is there. It doesn't attach to anything in particular in these images:
Mine's empty too, don't sweat it. (Although i'm just putting my engine back in so who knows, maybe I missed something, haha).
I run into stuff like that a lot, but remember not only were there so many different iterations of this engine that might have used that bore, but also individual parts might have been originally made for completely different engines/vehicles.
Good to know mine's not the only one that's empty!Originally Posted by Kyle
And that makes sense. Mine's an 87, so I suppose they could have made some changes and not gotten rid of that bore.
Hey there-- Im getting ready to do a water pump replacement of my own.. Thank you for this thread! I have only done minimal things to my 85 van, curious if anyone has a visual of steps for this project, or if its pretty obvious once i start taking things apart. I'll be doing this on the road side outside of my apartment tomorrow. I always take photos of what it looks like before i take a part off so i know what its supposed to look like reassembled.
Hi Tim-
Ok so I just got done replacing my water pump. with all high hopes. I am flushing the radiator before I put new antifreeze in, and inspect. Its leaking from the same place.I have no idea other than that I can see the leak, Its coming from the metal part that then attaches to the radiator hose on the driver side of the radiator. I am such a newb and this is the first and only vehicle I've ever worked on.. so pardon my lack of knowing. The oil is clean, there is no white exhaust, so I'm hoping this might still be a somewhat simple fix... any clues or thoughts??
There's a rubber seal that fits around the t-stat to seal that hose port, perhaps that's the culprit?
It was indeed the rubber seal to the t-stat! ....and then i had to get a new petcock because that started leaking. Im hoping that will take care of that issue...
I've got other issues now... I read the thread where you replace the fuel gauge.. I'm curious. I had never had a problem with the fuel gauge, and on my way home from having my van checked out for a longer road trip, I heard a kind of flapping coming from somewhere underneath and then watched my fuel gauge go from almost full to completely empty... curious if that sounds to you like it just went out finally or if I should check some things out and what I should be looking for. the flapping type noise stopped after i watched the fuel gauge go to empty.
oh and then there is the issue that just arose that it seems like she isn't shifting properly now. I checked the transmission fluid and its good. Can all of these things be related in some way or is it all just happening at once? I have an 85 automatic 3y.
Any help would be awesome. I was trying to leave town next week and now Im anxious to know if I can get her goin in time.
Those things don't seem related. I know it's a lot all at once, but the van is 33 years old, so it's not all that surprising. The most common failure for the fuel gauge is that rheostat on the sender. it's not uncommon for them to develop a dead spot. If/when that happens the gauge will work fine until it hits that spot, then it will stop working until you fill it up or fuel drops below the bad spot. On my 86, between 1/4 & 1/2 it would read empty. The rest of the time it was accurate. Just a simple "re-arching" of the metal contact that rides on the rheostat corrected it. There are other things, but that's the most common. If you don't have time for it now, just set your trip odometer every time you get gas, then just make sure you keep it under 200 miles between fill-ups.
Not sure about the flapping, but suspect that was coincidental. Could have been some road debris that temporarily got stuck under there? Still not a bad idea to get under there and look for damaged wires or any obvious damage that could have been caused by debris.
Properly cared for automatic transmissions will typically last for ~ 100k - 200k miles. My 86 van is exposed to severe service and that one actually lasted 250k miles..........but that is a bit rare. If your automatic transmission has over 200k miles on it, then it may be time? No way for me or anybody else to know without driving/inspecting. Sometimes shifting issues can be something simple. If you don't know how to tell, find a reputable transmission guy and have him evaluate. If I had that issue i would drop the pan and check for debris inside. If the magnets don't have a bunch of metal particles on them and if you don't see metal or other flaky stuff in the ATF, then that's a good sign. Put new fluid in and see what happens. When my transmission failed on my 86 I did that and was able to get another 10k miles out of it. When the problem came back I swapped it with a transmission out of one of my parts vans (had 160k miles on that one). So far I've put another 20k miles on it and it's still working good.
I know we all want reliable vehicles, but if you're driving something (anything) that's over 30 years old, unless you rework everything, you're going to have issues. Hopefully none serious enough to make you walk. Good luck. Tim
Here's a few other threads worth reading (regarding your transmission issue):
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...months-sitting
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ble-adjustment
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...erdrive-issues
Hello my name is Carlos and I arrived to Canada last month and now I am having problems with my 1984 Toyota van, when I bought it it had overheating problems and it resulted to be just the radiator cap. Then I used it like a month without problems. And the other day driving like 50 km the alternator belt broke, i fixed it on the road and after a strange noise that now is gone there is a coolant leak I don’t know where is it coming from, checked the hoses and look good and so the radiator, I am thinking that might be the water pump. I didn’t find any specific guide of how to do it. May be someone can help me. Thanks!
Hey all, I'm brand new to the forum. I drive a 1988 van wagon, rear wheel, 4cl, automatic, cargo with 126k miles.
First time dealing with a bum water pump. I'm trying to replace it on my own, but having trouble finding a good step by step anywhere online. If anyone can share a link, it would be greatly appreciated.
I've removed fan, shroud, belts out of the way. At this point I'm stuck on removing the fan clutch. I think I'm gonna have to put the fan belt back on and tighten it to keep the pully from turning while I loosen the nuts??
Also, any dos, don'ts, or tips will be most helpful.
glad to join the forum, and THANKY!!
The clutch fan nuts are not (usually) crazy tight unless seized/rusted.
Normally, I would crack them loose before dropping the belts, so putting the belt back on is definitely an option. (also the safest plan)
It may be worth trying to hold the pulley with a thin flat blade screwdriver jammed in between the far side nut and the shaft.
You don't want to go all gorilla on it too much, as you don't want to damage the fan, pump, nuts or hurt yourself
-nothing worse than thinking its all good, then you try to lever it, slip, round the nut, cut the crap out of your hand and possibly stuff a screwdriver thru the rad..... please don't ask how I KNOW that can happen!
Alternate option, if you have good hand grip, you may be able to wrap the belt around just that pulley, hold tight and crack the nuts loose
Alrighty, Thank you!!
Hey all, my Chilton service manual doesn't seem to have any info related to the water pump replacement. Does anyone here have any relatively detailed or illustrated resources on it? Feeling a little out of my depth :(
can somebody link this for me who knows where to find it? Im a noob
You can download the entire 1987 Van Factory Service Manual for free HERE . There were lots of changes between 84 and 87, but for things like the water pump it should be sufficient. If I had an 84, I would want a 1984 manual. Chiltons and Haynes are not adequate. You will definitely want a genuine Toyota Factory Service Manual. At any given time there are usually some available on eBay. Price usually ranges from $20 - $100 and it's well worth having (even at the higher price). Here's what they have available now: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...manual&_sop=15
Reply With Quote
