Confused about rear axle

[mountainhick]

Re: Early 94 with rear disk brakes and ABS.


My new (er, actually used, modded with Torsen LSD) diff is at the shop getting set up. I'll need to transplant it into the bus sometime next week. Looking at the FSM for pulling rear axles I am a bit confused what parts to have on hand. I just need to pull axles to change diff and re-assemble,

It looks like there are a couple different sets of seals and gaskets. I don't know which I need. Anyone done this and can comment?

Thanks

[mountainhick]

Diff is done, picking it up tomorrow. Guess I am winging it as usual!

I love having conversations with myself anyway

[timsrv]

I guess it depends on how rusty/jammed things are under there. Hopefully you won't need to break out the cutting torch.

I already covet your ride..........gonna be awesome with limited slip. Are you planning on doing the front too? Are you going to adjust the angle of the rear dif, or have you already done it?

[mountainhick]

I guess it depends on how rusty/jammed things are under there. Hopefully you won't need to break out the cutting torch.

I already covet your ride..........gonna be awesome with limited slip. Are you planning on doing the front too? Are you going to adjust the angle of the rear dif, or have you already done it?

I don't think there will be any rust problems, just wondering about the seals and gaskets. Had a reply at yahoo, someone didn't even pull the axles all the way, just pulled back enough to disengage the diff in order to remove it.

I am changing front, but not to an LSD. Doing both now to change diff ratio from 4.3 to 3.72 and just the rear to Torsen LSD. I need this to run at highway speed without burning up at high RPM. Don't plan to do the front with LSD if the rear compensates adequately for losing the viscous coupling in the original transfer case. It's all about handling in snow. Also did not adjust rear diff angle. It sports a new rear drive shaft, and seems OK.

[TheMAN]

there's a paper gasket between the brake backing plate (dust shield), and the axles, and then a metal gasket between the backing plate and the axle housing... there's also a paper gasket that seals the 3rd member to the axle housing
the only other seal there is, is the pinion shaft seal... it better be replaced because it's hard to do it right with the diff still bolted on, as the companion flange is torqued down onto a crush sleeve to get a correct backlash

there's also locking tabs for the carrier assembly and the offset adjusters that needs to be replaced


so why were you confused? Why didn't you just buy all the replacement parts as stated to do so in the shop manual?
I also hope 3.72 axle ratios work good because there was noticeable loss of low end torque going from 4.30 to 4.10, but it's still acceptable, and highway RPMs are lower, so improved gas mileage was noticed already

[mountainhick]

so why were you confused?

Because I am an idiot?

[mountainhick]

Rear diff swapped!!!

I just pulled the axles back enough (3-4" each side) to swap the diff. Didn't replace and gaskest or seals other than the main diff gasket. The shop did the pinion seal as part of setup.

OK as for the other Torsen/LSD/ratio changes, I am starting another thread with the math and synopsis of why the ratio changes are working out