Ok so my route changed from the last time I meet this nice a/c thech guy who was nice enough to explain to me the pro's and con on switching freon he said that he can do both but he recommends me sticking to R12 that our system was designed for or completely swapping everything. And or that he can sell me the cans and I can do it my self because he doesn't like working on those vans, !no offense taken!
Ok on the system. He recomends sticking to R12 to have full capacity 45-50 degrees, the other way that I'll be getting 65-70 and when it's really hot engine running for a while it was going to be tough.
Steps he was going to do. First and the most important was change the valves that 80% of leaking or bad systems go bad from there. if I dint know the history of the van witch I dint thethen he was going to vacuum everything out then put a leak and house refrigerator freon to inspect and make sure compressor works then take that out if everything is good then he would add the R12.
He was going to charge me $275 to do it but I also have a 84 Vanagon that need gas I just got the cans now in looking for gage manifold and vacuum you guys can see the R12 cans I gotin the classified section ill keep you guys posted also any tips or advice please post it I'm doing things that if it weren't for this Web site would almost be impossible. Thank you all and specially to the administrators
I'm whit the force & the force is whit me.
R134 conversion.
Glad I paid someone and fortunate nothing was bad as it hadn't been used by the PO, who imported it.
Blows cold and when it's been 100+ it's quite nice inside.
ToyotaVanTech special 2) 14oz cans for 75 shipped or 3) for $100 both shipping included I can also throw a find leak for an extra $ 20 I found a good stash of this stuff, stock up for a rainy day these sell way more on E-Bay. If you can't service your van, ask your local shops that if you get them the R12 can they do it??? Most don't do it because they don't have the refrigerant
I'm whit the force & the force is whit me.
(I searched and searched but didn't find an answer. Now I'm left asking a dumb and newbie question) Any info on location of low side recharging port? Underneath passenger seat? 2. I read on here that it's recommended replacing dryer, does it require vacuuming system? Info: van has not ran in the past 11 years and AC was not serviced/recharged since mid 90's. However, AC button works/lights up and compressor engages when accelerating a bit. But no cold air. So... I bought a RedTek r12a kit and not sure where to begin.
Any my info is greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Bizcotch; 07-27-2017 at 12:07 AM.
Ok, so I guess I wasn't one of the luckys that just threw refrigerant on their systems and just worked. I'm going share my troubleshooting and see if I can get to the bottom of it.... So after trying to charge system it wouldn't suck the refrigerant nor the compressor engage, compressor did cycle when I jumped it.. Things that I'm going to do, change dryer, change expansion valve, check breakers and relays. Thanks ill keep you guys posted
I'm whit the force & the force is whit me.
you might have already done it: but low side needs to build up certain amount of pressure before compressor kicks in. i remember it took longer than anticipated when recharging my system for the compressor to kick in and start pulling in the refrigerant - just wanted to put that out there before you replace a lot of other components.
Thanks, I left it for about 40min, the gauge would just retrieve to 0 from vacuum. Before I did anything a checked whit gauges and had cero lowside pressure and 150 highside.I checked manual and it indicates that refrigerant is not circulating plus those parts are common problem on almost the majority of issues might as well just change them, spent like $35 on both. Thank you much
I'm whit the force & the force is whit me.
If you're trying to service an empty system from the compressor port, that may be your problem. You could either bypass the pressure switch with a jumper wire or you could add freon from the intake port under the front of the van. Adding from the remote intake port will allow the system to take more freon and you'll satisfy the pressure switch sooner. Tim
PS: Of course I'm assuming you have remote ports. I know 86 - 89 has them, but I'm a bit unfamiliar with 84 - 85.
I was wondering what that nipple was doing there . 2 questions. If charged from the front I'm imagining it would be whit the lone hose right? I can keep the gauges on compressor to monitor because they wont reach and would bypassing the pressure switch be the same thing as bypassing the compressor because I already did, whit compressor lone wire and I did see the pulley rotate which im guessing compressor engaging and pressure switch bypassed if so? it dint work. But definitely ill try front port. Thank you much
I'm whit the force & the force is whit me.
I guess it depends on what you meant by bypassing compressor. If you applied + 12VDC directly to the clutch wire and the clutch failed to engage, then you have a failed magnetic clutch. As I said earlier, I'm not too familiar with the 84 - 85 vans, but 86 - 89 have both high and low pressure ports available under front of van. I always use those for charging/monitoring as there is less chance of slugging compressor with liquid freon if you're using those......plus, there's no need to remove the PS engine compartment (or even access the engine) . Tim
Ok, Ill try to make my question simpler. With out bypass, pulley docent rotate at all, when I do bypass it does rotate. Does rotating pulley usually equal compressor/magnet working or will pulley rotate whit out working compressor? Im trying to determine if compressor is good or not.
Last edited by dogger562; 07-30-2017 at 09:59 PM.
I'm whit the force & the force is whit me.
Yeah, if you hear a click and the pulley starts spinning, then the magnetic clutch is good. If it's spinning and you can't get it to suck any freon then it's possible the compressor is shot or there's a blockage somewhere in the system. Tim
I was trying to get my AC compressor clutch to engage, by putting 12v to the wire that comes into it, and grounding to the ground wire, and nothing happens. Does this mean that the magnetic clutch is bad, or does the pressure switch need to be engaged, before the compressor clutch will function?
Also, i checked the voltage from the power wire going to the compressor with the car running and the AC turned on, and it was aprox. 13.4 volts. Is that normal?
If you're measuring 13.4VDC between the magnetic clutch wire and engine ground, then the center of the compressor pulley should be spinning. If it's not, then the magnetic clutch has failed. These can & do fail. I should know as mine failed last week (hottest day of the year so far @ 105º F). That clutch came with my "new" compressor I purchased off of eBay 3 years ago. Rather than discharge, replace compressor (again), and recharge, I'm swapping my old OEM original Denso magnetic clutch onto the "new" compressor that's installed now. Having my AC back will be a welcome change as I'm tired of driving with my windows down . Tim
Thanks Tim!!
One more thing, is this the correct part number for 4wd dual AC? # 88320-0101-84