OK thanks skibum,Originally Posted by skibum
I think I'll have some time to do this tomorrow. Looks like I'm going to be taking my head off pretty soon. I gota find someone to do the machine work.
OK thanks skibum,
I think I'll have some time to do this tomorrow. Looks like I'm going to be taking my head off pretty soon. I gota find someone to do the machine work.
OK looks like I'll be doing the head sometime in the future. I managed to read every thread that had "head gasket" in the title. I saw your write up on replacing the parts along with the head work. Is the power steering pump something I should think about? It's working good and no leaks that are noticeable. I'll look closer at the system. There was a reference of a $40 sensor that I should replace. Is that correct?
Looks like the 1000 page manual is going to be a good friend of mine. This seemed kinda strange on it;
CLEAN CYLINDER HEAD
Using a soft brush and solvent, thoroughly clean the head.
CAUTION: Do not clean the head in a hot tank as this
would seriously damage it.
ref: pg 41
It flunked the HC test? I believe the $40 part you're referring to is the BVSV (Bi Metal Vacuum Switching Valve) otherwise known as the "Oh crap I broke it valve". If it's not already broken AND if you can remove/re-install the head without breaking it, then you're golden. It's got 2 little plastic nipples on it for vacuum lines. After years exposed to engine heat the nipples become fragile and break off. Rather than worry about it I would just plan on replacement.
If you end up removing the head I would recommend taking it to a machine shop. They will tear it down and check it out for you. Most of the better shops will have a washing machine for cleaning it up. At the very least you will want to put new valve guide seals on it. It will also likely need new valve guides and possibly a valve grind. It should also be checked for flatness. If it's warped beyond acceptable limits it will need resurfacing. Have them check it closely for cracks. If you can't afford this type of service, then there are ways to check things yourself. I believe I've outlined these in other places here on TVT...........good luck. Tim
Yes they gave it two tests and it flunked both of them. Funny thing is it drove ok all day today. OK, I didn't drive on the freeway. And yes that's the valve I was interested in replacing BEFORE I break it. Can you give me the info for tracking this one down? I'm going to have to do some research on getting the machining done on this. Not really up to speed on who's who around here.
It's all laid out in those links...........everything you need:
I am very sorry for the late response. My computer crashed and my life has been upside-down for the last week. I've resolved my computer issues and everything is up and running again. I somehow managed to go about 5 or 6 years without any problems, but the last few months I've made up for it. I finally just went out and got a laptop and of course I had to have something unique......yadda yadda........okay so I'm rambling, sorry. If anybody's interested I made some posts on the HP forum HERE.
Okay, back on topic. You mentioned you purchased a head gasket kit? You got a genuine Toyota gasket set right? There is a wide varience in quality when it comes to aftermarket head gaskets, so unless you're feeling lucky you should stick with Toyota here.......just saying.
The valve grind gasket kit for the 4y is Toyota Part #04112-73035. There have been different numbers used for this same kit over the years, so don't be too surprised if that number is superseded by another. As for hoses, I don't like flex hoses and will only use them when there are not other alternatives. I consider formed hoses to be far superior. There are a lot of formed hoses in the engine compartment. Most are still available but some are not. Last time I ordered these Toyota substituted some straight hoses for some of the formed coolant hoses. I ended up taking these back because why pay $15 for a piece of 18" straight 5/8 heater hose???
For the ones that are still available I marked up these break-down sketches from the EPC with part numbers. If I say "use bulk hose" it means you will either get bulk hose from Toyota at a very high price, or it is NLA (No Longer Available). For some of the smaller 5/16" hoses I found that Gates hose is actually superior to factory Toyota hose so I marked this up to show the locations this will work in. Some of the others are bent too sharp (bulk hose might kink) so I listed Toyota part numbers for those. There are some slight differences from 2wd to 4wd on some of these hoses so if you order make sure you copy down the correct part numbers.
Note 1: The EPC lists this hose as #99556-20300 for 2wd and #87245-95D12 for 4wd. The last time I ordered the one for 2wd Toyota sent me a hose in a package with the correct part number, but it was actually a 12" piece of 1/2" ID straight hose (not formed). So for this one I say save your money and just get a piece of 1/2" bulk heater hose for 50 cents (Toyota charged me $13). I'm not sure what you'd get if you ordered the 4wd hose, but it wouldn't surprise me if you got the same thing.
Okay, here's the air valve hoses and the ventilation hoses for the valve cover. The last few times I ordered the PCV grommet from Toyota there was a problem with the part number, but I found Dorman makes replacement ones that fit nice. Dorman has the racks marked "HELP!" in the retail section of most auto parts stores. You will find several rubber parts like this there, just use the part number in the picture below to identify the correct one.
Note: Rubber line (not shown) that goes from intake manifold to the metal line on firewall (brake booster vacuum supply) is Toyota #44774‑28080
Okay, last but not least is your BVSV (Bi-metal Vacuum Switching Valve) otherwise known as the "Oh crap I broke it valve". The plastic nipples on this valve get extremely brittle from the heat of the engine compartment and will break off if you look at them wrong. If you're pulling the head it's almost a given this valve will break. Last time I purchased one was about 2 years ago and at that time they were still available through Toyota. The valve's mission in life is to inhibit EGR operation when the engine is cold. These run about $40. Here is a picture of one.
As for your question regarding flushing out the lower end, I would advise against that. Nobody likes the idea of heavy sludge or chunks of scale floating around down there, but unless you tear down the bottom end, other than changing your oil there's not much you can do. Using crank-case flushing products on old engines is a bad idea. Scale or build-up doesn't do any harm when it's stuck to an engine surface. If the cleaning product actually works it will only serve to move the gunk from it's harmless position into a potentially bad one. When this stuff floats around in the pan it will typically end up stuck to the oil pump pick-up screen and if enough of it gets deposited there it can starve your engine for oil.
Chances are whatever fell down there during head removal will eventually drain out during an oil change or it will find a harmless place to deposit itself. Just try to minimize any further contamination and you should be okay. Tim
I was kinda hinting around a connection on getting this valve at the cheaper price than $60. Seems a bit high for stupid little thing with no electronics either. Looks like other Toyotas have these "BVSV"s too.
I've never tried to get one aftermarket. Maybe you could check with O'Reily's or somebody to see if they could save you a buck.
Looks like all the auto parts stores worth checking don't have a substitute for this valve. I tried Oreily, Autozone, and Napa. All coming up empty. I did see that
http://www.discounttoyotaparts.net/ and http://www.toyotapartszone.com/ both came up positive for having this valve. They were roughly around $40 with shipping. Beats the hell out of spending over $60 for the part.
I might go to the wreckers one day and see if I could get this part off of a Toyota. I saw that this valve fits a TON of different models*. I may just go and see what I could find. I might as well try to save $40 if I can.
*Can send a text file of all the models if someone needs it. It's just rather big and don't want to plaster it on the thread here.
Well I couldn't get to the wreckers till today and I would have to say I'm rather satified with what I was able to find.
If these are kinda dark, I can photo them in the day time and they should be better. Anyways, this is what I got in two large yards. BTW, they had very few TVs, saw more Mitsubishi vans than TV. Go figure!
The first row is of the proper part, 90925-05017. The last one is of some aftermarket part with no part number on it. The second row is of 90925-05068 part that I was going to use if I couldn't find the correct ones. The 90925-05017 ones were almost all found in a few '89 Toyota Camery. The very first two were a B***H to get off. I had to resort to using vise-grips to get them off. Number 3 and 4 is what I'll use. The others I'll just have as needed.
Little on part finding these. OK the ones on the bottom row you'll pretty much find them all day. The "correct ones" take a little more time finding them, but you can. They were all located in pretty much the same area. Driver's side of the engine compartment and in the top area. If you have a 19mm open end wrench, use that. A crescent wrench is doable but it can be done. Some just don't want to come out! They are pretty much solid but can break. Saw alot that were broken from others wrenching on the car. Some that the car was fairly striped and was easy to get to.
All in all beats the hell out of paying $40-60 on one of these!
The bottom row valve takes a 24mm.
Lol, looks like you got a lifetime supply there. The van is pretty hard on plastic parts (at least in the engine compartment). I'm guessing the Camry ones still have lots of life left. 1st time I had to remove one of these I smashed it with a hammer then removed the base with a regular socket (what the hell, it was already broken). Putting the new one in was a slight PITA due to the fuel line right there so I cut a slot out of a thick-wall deep socket and used that. I replace these things every so often (in different vans) so the socket gets used semi-regularly. here's a picture:
wwoooo doggie!!!! Cutting up a Craftman deep socket just for dealing with this part huh? Think I'm going to look at ebay or try some kind of cheapo tool store. I value my Craftmans.
Getting back to these valves. Looks like these things are just passed over by everyone pulling parts. I saw very few that were pulled from the manifolds. They were pretty much always left. Some even had everything pulled from the engine. After finding one I was able to spots these easily too. Just had to spot the 80's Toyotas.
One more pic for good measures,
I ended up getting a Craftsman socket. I didn't want to do stuff twice, so went with the Craftsman. It went against my restitution to destroy a perfect socket that I could have added to my collection, but what the heck.
What kind of tool did you guys use to cut the slot in those sockets?
"You came in that thing?... You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
I used a dremel and one disposable cutting disc. I was under the impression that it was going to be a b***h to cut this, but I was abit underwhelmed with the hardest of the metal.
BTW, I'm gona use this dremel for cutting my assess to the hose of death. This thing just doesn't die! All the cooling fins are busted off and it runs like NO BIGGY!
I used a die grinder and a cut-off wheel for the long cuts. I switched to a dremel with a worn cut-off wheel for the short cut. I held it close to my chest while cutting, then noticed my shirt was smoldering when I finished
User1, that's a thin-wall socket.............not sure how well it will do if you run into a tight one to remove. Tim
It just needs to survive long enough to get the good one on my van. I guess it would be saved for if I ever have to deal with this valve again. As far as taking them off on the van, I'll do what you did and use a good 19mm socket. As far as taking them off at the wreckers, I'll use what I was doing.
I'm not sure how much clearance you have around that part, but if you did have a "tight" one, you could probably "strap" the socket with a hose clamp, to keep it from spreading. Just a thought.I used a die grinder and a cut-off wheel for the long cuts. I switched to a dremel with a worn cut-off wheel for the short cut. I held it close to my chest while cutting, then noticed my shirt was smoldering when I finished
User1, that's a thin-wall socket.............not sure how well it will do if you run into a tight one to remove. Tim
Hey skibum,
I had a chance to look at this the other day. I'm pretty sure this cable connection is for the lever that selects the possible airflow in the dash area. For example, foot area or face area, etc, etc. The lever that is sticking is the lever for the temp of the air coming out.
If you are correct, then this lever underneath moves fairly freely when disconnected.
I'm going to have to look again. I thought it was the water valve, but looking in the manual, it looks like there is also an air valve that looks similar. The picture was my van that has a working heater valve, but I'm at our winter home and that lever is hung up, so I will try to free it. Then I'll verify which valve I think I'm looking at.
Nice time of year to make sure the heater is working, anyway
The airmix damper & the water valve are both operated by the single temp lever (2 cables). This is part of the reason there's so much resistance here. The other levers only operate 1 cable each. Tim
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