Timsrv, I can't tell who made my core. If it came from Autozone and it's not a Denso it's not worth rebuilding again right? Even with Denso parts?
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Timsrv, I can't tell who made my core. If it came from Autozone and it's not a Denso it's not worth rebuilding again right? Even with Denso parts?
Your alternator was originally manufactured by Denso, but it's most likely been rebuilt with lesser quality aftermarket parts, then resold by Autozone. If you knew where to get the genuine Denso parts (and at a reasonable price), all you'd need to do is replace whichever part failed inside (probably the diode block) with Denso. Since we don't have access to the good OE Denso parts at affordable prices, the next best thing is to purchase the entire Denso unit (actually rebuilt by Denso). That link I provided earlier is actually a pretty good deal. If I were wanting another, I'd get one of those.Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthlin
Of course this is assuming your alternator has failed. There's other things (like the alternator harness) that can create this same issues. If you take your old alternator off and it tests bad, then just get the Denso unit. I'm telling you from experience, unless something has changed, the cheap rebuilds don't last (been there done that).
A cheaper alternative might be to go shopping at an auto salvage yard. As mentioned in that other thread (linked to above) there are several other vehicles that use similar Denso alternators. Their external cases may have different mount configurations, but the internals are the same. When I'm running low on alternator parts I will look for original Denso alternators on other vehicles, then remove the parts I need (inside the yard). The guys at the counter usually don't recognize alternator parts as big sales items and will often let me have them for a couple bucks. If I'm getting other bigger items, they'll usually just throw those in for free. Tim
Theres some smoking coming from the FL2.0L fusible link right at the connector to the battery terminal. I noticed it after jumping the battery. I'm not too surprised it was dead because it had been sitting for a few weeks, but this has never been a problem before. There are no other issues that I can tell. I'm wondering if there's a short somewhere causing the smoking, but I have no clue where to start looking? Any suggestions?
At some point you just need to get in there and replace things. Battery terminal ends don't last forever and this is a common place for corrosion. Little wisps of smoke at battery terminals/connection points are indicators there's too much resistance at a connection. Anything other than shiny metal in these locations should be either cleaned until shiny or replaced. Then all connections need to be tight. A good measure of prevention is also recommended. You can get anti corrosive compound at any auto parts store and/or even places like Walmart. I like to put that stuff on each terminal before attaching (so the stuff is down in there). If the terminals are bad enough to replace, you'll either need to buy a good set of crimpers or take the van into an auto electric place and pay them to do it.
Even though I keep things clean and tight, I still find myself needing to get into these areas to clean/replace every 5 years or so. Batteries will often lose their seal between the plastic and the lead posts. When that happens the corrosion problem becomes more severe and requires more care/maintenance. If that becomes a constant issue, you might be better off replacing your battery and the affected terminals and be done with it......at least until it happens again :wall:. Tim
So my van is stranded with some wiring issue. Someone replaced the fusable link that’s in the alternator circuit with a inline fuse holder and a 40 amp fuse. The van keeps blowing that fuse after the van gets above 1500rpm. The van will idle for a long time with no issue just once you put load of rev the engine it will blow the fuse and I lose all power, but the engine is still able to run/drive. I haven’t found out how big of a fuse it melt but it melted 16ga wire that I tried to jumper the fuse to get the van home. This 40aml fuse has been working great for thousands and thousands of miles, and for months and months I’ve had no electrical issues. Totally unrelated but I just got done replacing rotors, calipers, wheel bearings and the car sat for 2 weeks but I have no idea how that caused any problem related to this.
I don’t have a volt meter on me to test anything. Could my alternator finally be dead?
Your alternator is capable of producing 70amps. If your van has sat a few weeks, the battery may be low and asking for more amperage to recharge. When you rev the engine the alternator is putting out more amperage than the fuse can handle. I believe the ampacity rating of 16 gauge is maybe 10amps. So, the big question before you try putting a 70amp fuse in that holder is, "What gauge is your charge wire?".
do you get a charge light with key on not running? maybe youve gone full field on the charging circuit from a bad regulator or fusible link...
This makes a lot of sense. The only part of the wiring that has been altered in the charging circuit is where the fuse holder has been added. So it is all factory wires until the fuse holder which looks to be around 10 gauge, the factory wires that were spliced are about the same gauge and definitely not “battery cable” thickness. I can get a picture of the wires in question. I need to replace that fuse holder anyways since the holder got fried.Quote:
Originally Posted by originalkwyjibo
Most quality auto parts stores will fusible link wire and ring terminals and you could rig up the equivalent of the factory piece.
Fuses and fusible link do not operate the same way, fuses blow, links slowly melt under excessive amperage.
I'd want to recreate the factory wiring then see if you really have a problem and if so, diagnose it accordingly.
From the Fusible Link Thread, as per Tim
"The "B" in the 1.25B relates to the diameter of the fuse wire. The bigger the wire, the more current it can handle before it blows. I don't have a conversion chart handy, but I'm estimating that 1.25B is equivalent to about 80A. You'd think by the mid 80's Toyota would have been labeling everything in amps &/or using conventional breakers / fuses."
Clearly, a 40Amp fuse isn't going to cut the mustard!
Would you believe that this FL 0.5G fusible link passes a continuity test?
It does!
Attachment 8726
Going to replace that, just on general principles, according to Tim's water-tight fuse-holder solution. I should probably not be testing continuity with the fusible link removed, right? I should instead be testing by putting one lead of the multimeter on a battery terminal.
Similarly, is there any way to test the FL 2.0L fusible link? I expect that the only thing to do is to cut it out and crimp in a replacement, no? I have not stripped off the "soft grey loose-fitting plastic cover" but I expect that the only thing to do is cut it out. I am reluctant to do so because Tim's description of the symptoms of a failed FL 2.0L fusible link don't match my van's behavior. (That is: no dash lights, dim door light, nasty electrical buzzing sound coming from somewhere near the fusebox and the RPM relay.)
As you are starting to find, many years of PO's and questionable repairs (see FL 0.5G pic)
you will start to value the time you "waste" going over things, you will find more scary stuff and eliminating the scary "repairs" is the first step to getting a reliable van.
A continuity test merely looks at "is the wire intact from one end to the other".
Where you choose to measure the one "end" from is your business.
IOW, The circuit doesn't care if you are measuring the continuity with the FL installed or not.
Doing a continuity test will not cause any harm. It also won't tell you the wires ability to handle a load. (again, see pic FL 0.5G)
Fusible links by nature, are designed to MELT under excessive amperage, if its been exposed to such an event, it will be visually obvious. cutting away the insulation would only tell you what state the copper wiring is in (corroded?) but won't really add anything to the diagnostic procedure.
Not having the indications of a problem is a great thing and there is the old sleeping dog thing.
Then again, knowing that this has been an issue for many and if you replaced it now and know its good, its one less thing to be concerned about down the road.
The decision to action FL 2.0L is yours, and yours alone.
You know, your response was rather deeper than the one I expected. You are right on the money, though. If I consider your post in the light of the further troubleshooting I've done of the van's electrical system (ugh), cleaning off or clipping out corrosion where warranted, I don't think that "just pierce the housing with the probe" would be a satisfying or meaningful answer. It looks and feels okay, and I didn't need to replace it to get the electrical up and running again, but I would very much enjoy the feeling of not having to worry about it further down the road.Quote:
Originally Posted by Burntboot
So: FL 2.0L has been added to the List of Dogs to Wake Up Real Soon Now, but not at the top of the list. I'm buying the parts to roll my own fusible links & fuse replacements today, not waiting for my next electrical problem! Many thanks for your input, both technical and otherwise.
Had to replace 60 amp fuse link(cleaned fuse box). Van ran, new plugs,wires, cap,rotor, fuel pump,won't fire now. Ran previously, missed, burnt plug wire,(even after 12 yr sabbatical). Wondering if I got the wiring right to the 60amp fuse link. Looks right according to schematic, but, not sure.Can anyone tell me, simply, which wires go to the 60amp fuse link(colors)? Rarely join forums, guess I posted wrongly before, Tim.
Thanks for any help.
As long as you connected the same 2 wires that were originally connected to the 60A fuse then all should be good, it is fairly difficult to attach a wrong wire there as all the others (in that fuse block) are push connector but the main 60A is a bolt on connection from the backside.
Looking to tackle this, this weekend. I’ve read this thread through a number of times. Is my understanding correct:
FL 1.25B — Toyota Part #90982-08276 (NLA). If FL box and posts are still intact, replace with 12ga fusible link wire and ring connectors.
— If FL box is destroyed/excessively corroded, replace with 80A slow blow fuse
FL 0.5G — Replace with waterproof fuse holder and 15A fuse
EFI — Replace with 30A
AM2 — Replace with 30A
Headlight — Replace with 40A
AM1 — Replace with 80A Toyota part #90982-08203
FL 2.0L — Replace by splicing in 12ga fusible link wire
Does it look like I correctly understand what I have read?
Sounds about right. Please keep in mind though that the only fusible link I have needed to replace is the FL 0.5G (as shown earlier in this thread). That has worked well and there have been no further issues. Regarding the others, unless there are some obvious issues, I wouldn't replace them (especially the ones behind the power steering reservoir). If you do need to replace the 2 big ones by the battery, and assuming they are not available through Toyota, use the information provided on page 2 of this thread to determine suitable replacements. Tim
Thanks for verifying that Tim.
The plan was to inspect everything this weekend. Based on what I have read in this thread and others, IÂ’m probably doing ok. However, I do like preventative maintenance.
I did need a jump start recently and since then, I have been getting dimming in my headlights when other accessories are used (brake lights, heater) and my cigarette lighter and clock also stopped working.
The battery is newish (I left the lights on during the day) and the battery terminal connectors have been replaced. I understand that it could be a relay and IÂ’ve checked the fuses. However, I figured since Whatvan will be turning 200,000mi pretty soon, I should probably give the FLÂ’s a look-see.
Im continuing down the rabbit hole of electrical threads, any suggestions or links are welcome.
After reading all 5 pages on the forum about Fusible link. There is still some questions...
To make a short story, by an unbelievable distraction, i inverted battery pole while putting a new battery... yep... first time in my 47 years old life (shame on me, don't say more!)
The fusible 1.25B melted. Others fusible links looks ok, but i will change 0.5B with waterproof fuse holder and 15A fuse.
For FL 2.0, I don’t know if is it ok, but I rewired temporarely melted fusible link 1.25B and started the van and everything looks ok.
Questions: If everything look normal, should I change anyway FL 2.0 with 12 ga FL? If yes, which lenght?
I will replace FL 1.25B with 12GA FL wire and ring connectors.
Last question: After putting battery pole the right way, 2 weeks after, the new battery was completely discharged. No sparks on battery pole. Completely dead. Is it possible that a bad FL could drain the battery? Should I test it with a multimeter if there is current passing thru positive battery pole?
If everything works then your FL 2.0 is good (Assuming it passes a visual test, don't waste your time trying to replace). Having a blown fusible link won't drain the battery. If anything it will prevent your battery from being drained. I'd start by recharging your battery, then check to see if there's a draw. I'm sure you're beyond this, but it's a common mistake for van newbies to not turn the ignition off all the way. Since the ignition tumblers are weak, the key can usually be removed even when its still in the accessory position.
It's also possible the alternator may have a shorted diode. Here's a thread that may aid you in identifying and repairing a draw. Tim
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...r+draw+circuit
Thank you Tim!
Tim - When I read your words in this post it was like the dark clouds broke and the sun beamed right down on me! Well, at least until I went to check the FL1.25B moments ago and quickly discovered that the FL1.25B, FL2.0L, and FL0.5G are all missing. :rol: I really hope I didn't cook anything. Any advice on what to check/replace in the case that I damaged something major?Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
All - An exposed part of the alternator charging wire sparked/smoked when it got wet during a recent coolant flush, and the battery degassed a little too.:yes: Do you think I may have cooked some wire? I was thinking of replacing the section from the battery to the +box as a precautionary measure. Or maybe I'll just install the three Fusible Links and then see how she runs. Also, any FL wire pics from all your successful FL updates, in addition to Tim's within this thread, would be most helpful.
Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
tim, quoted you because it appears youÂ’re the man with the plan. The following has nothing to do with the quote. :)
New to me van. 89 2WD with 130k. When I purchased it didn’t run, start...really do anything. I put a battery in it and that got me headlights and the “charge” light on the dash, nothing else. Finally through this thread I determined the problem to be the FL 1.25B. (The FL 0.5G is broken off too but the solution to that one is straight forward...I think). Anyways, I reached under there and sure enough the 1.25 housing is completely melted and unsalvageable. Per this thread, I should replace with an 80a slow blow.
So my question is this: exactly what style fuse and *fuse holder* would you use to do this? All I did was cut the old burned housing out so the 2 wires are still hanging down side by side. The other question is, what size wires are they that ran to the 1.25?
thanks!
I have a 1987 van 4wd AT. A couple days ago, the 1.25B fusible link burnt for some unknown reason. I am currently in Mexico so very hard to find a replacement (or anything that would temporarly replace this until i get back to the U.S). I built a new one with a local mecanic. I should probably say that i bought the van with an ignition bypass (have to turn the key to run and push a momentary switch to start it) and have no idea why the owner before me did this. This makes that the starter is not connected to that 1.25B Fusible Link (but alternator is). Now that i got the "new" fusible link in, i noticed that one of the wires (green one. Not the white with blue line one.) gets suuuuuper hot when the van is running. Any idea why and what is causing this? I'm planning on starting my journey up north and dont want the fusible link to keep burning every once in a while... I have pictures but can't seem to understand how to put them on here
If you go back to page 1 of this thread, Tim details the green wire well.
He also makes a note about the potential for "thermal runaways", so best to get it sorted before heading out on the road.
Are the 4 Pal fuses in fusible link box behind passenger seat considered fast acting or slow burn?
That box in my van is disintegrated, I was looking at redoing that whole box with some aftermarket maxi blade fuse block.
I'm not sure what the actual burn time is, but fusible links in general are slow burn. They are designed to tolerate overloads for short periods, but they should burn out before the wire is damaged. If I were doing this repair, assuming new OE parts are non-available, I would try to find a used one (perhaps one of those on-line parts locators). If that didn't pan out and I was stuck with a non-stock repair, I'd probably use resetable DC breakers or slow burn fuses of the same values. Tim
Thanks for the reply, I'll do some more looking around for OE replacement but at this point I'm probably just use this fuse block or something similar Blue Sea Systems 7725 Safety HUB Fuse Block 100 RBS https://a.co/d/4RGYxZ0 for the 40a headlight, 30a am2, 30a EFI. The 60a am1 I'll look for something inline. I heard good things about the blue sea systems fuse blocks from people eliminating fusible links/redoing circuits on old 5.9 Cummins.
Hello I am looking to find out the color of the wire that goes from the wiring harness to the yellow fusibe link that connects to the positive battery terminal. Currently I just have to wires going straight to the positive battery terminal.
Post #1, pic #5
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiking
Ask around in the ham radio repair world where you would find a store that sells Surplus or New Old Stock like fusible links. In Los Angeles I know of two stores one https://www.ametron.com/ that is as big as a Walmart and another store that is in the San Fernando Valley called Apex Electronics which happens to have a YouTube video documentary on it. They've got New Old Stock from the 40s. It would be worth looking at these stores in your searches for such things as usable links because they went on all kinds of studio equipment as well
OK I had issues on my annual hunting trip yesterday and lost nearly all the accessory Lights, and all the electrical based gauges: It still ran, and I booked 35 miles for town. made that and decided (since the alt belt was good and the Alt new) tried to get home. Battery gave out in Vacaville and I was towed to O'Rileys, Long story short, I got a new battery and drove home.
Thanks to this thread it led me to the well hidden AM1 fuse:
For:
AM1:its not listed as 60A but 80A by Toyota? (might be availability)
AM2/EFI 30A fuse is apparently available
Headlight Fuse 40A, Also apparently available
These, as noted in the thread are PAL class, and available from NAPA as PLA30, PLA40 and PLA 80 replacements:
NAPA #s: (Found on the rack, in fuses...)
PLA80 = 782-2034 (A<!
PLA 30 = 782-2026 (AM2/EFI)
PLA40 = 782-2029 (headlight fuse)
The 30s and 40's are plug and play. The AM1 requires dismounting the block (10 MM bolts, use a 16" 3/8's extension from the bottom for one, the other either needs a universal, or "by feel" from the top I used my SK 3/6's drive in a 1/4" ratchet and a long 10 mm Socket for #2.
DO take the ground off the Battery for the next step; these wires are hot!
AM1 is held with an 8MM on one side and a 6MM on the other. Same ratchet above, std sockets.
The Factory Fuse is NOT slotted, so full screw removal is required. I recommend reattaching the wire as you go if the replacement fuse is slotted. If it is not, I'd suggest making it slotted!
One of my covers refused to stay snapped in place (the one from the bottom) It got Duct tape now.
Not sure Upload Images is working for me:
New Fuses and old:
Nope - Only the one image worked? :wall:
I don't know what is going on to upload an image properly seems haphazard.
I do have one question for the Forum: for the main "Small fuse panel" in the passenger foot well - Does any one have a "map" for which is which? I don't have a cover on mine (likely where the map is) adn I particularity want to find the one for the "charging Circuit" as that could also have been my problem... There are also 2 fuses, (7.5 and 20) in a capsule right next to the main panel -what are those for?
Attachment 12260
IGN STOP GAUGE CHARGE TAIL
—— DOME ECU-IG DEFOG HEAD(lh)
ENGINE AC WIPER TURN HEAD(rh)
—RADIO CIG FOG HAZ-HORN
Thank you Jan!
Sorry for the delayed response, I was driving the van's wheels off on a camping trip!
Thanks TVT and special thanks to Kcg795. I have power again.
Always a wealth of good info here when I run into trouble.
Happy New Year everyone and keep on Vannin’ :drive::thmbup:
Doc
The 1.25B fusible link failed on my van this weekend. I started the van up and drove a short while when I noticed the charge and brake light came on. I pulled over and turned off the van to check the fuse box. Everything looked good so I started it back up and drive a little further before I decided to park it in and inspect further. After some more inspection I tried to start the van, but only got the charge light when I turned the ignition on. Then I checked the 1.25B and it was toast. Melted the black holder. But the harness side was still intact. Luckily Napa had 12 gauge primary fusible link wire and crimp-on ring ends. I took out the bolts from the FL holder and connected the 6” piece of FL wire and wrapped the ends with electrical tape as a temporary solution to get the van back home.
For those out there the fusible link fails slow and electrical components go out in a cascade unlit nothing works.
I think I am going to use this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7...s&gad_source=4 and fusible link wire rather that a 80 amp slow burn fuse and holder since the harness is still in good shape.
FYI, those things are massive. I recently went down this road with one of my vans when I upgraded to the 105 amp Suzuki Denso alternator and had a hard time finding a good place to mount it. For the 105 amp upgrade I ended up going with a 120 amp fuse from an '04 Mitsubishi Outlander but this style fuse is used on a number of late 90s to early 2000s imports and are readily available and are also available in 80 amp as well as other amperages. I presume them to be spark proof like the mega fuse since they are mounted directly to the battery. My other van got fusible link wire from the parts store like yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian R.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T2C1SHN...haWwp13NParams
I still have the original style battey clamps so this bolted right on along with the upgraded 4 gauge charge cable to the alternator. You do have to be able to make your battery connections at 90 degrees since they stack under the fuse and you would have to extend the wire up to the battery terminal from it's current location but then it eliminates a major electrical connection right behind the mudflap. I got mine from the junkyard along with the fuse and terminal cover and a spare fuse from another car to keep in the glovebox.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18442778159...Cclp%3A2332490
When I get around to upgrading battery cables on the second van I will likely use this fuse setup again.
Im so confused on my 87 the 1.25 is pulled into the battery box which made sense to me after seeing this but i cannot figure out where this yellow FL 0.5G fusible link is located. The wiring is surprisingly very clean on my van it was well taken care of for the most part but im having issues with either a FL or my starter has gone to crap. It is very dirty so imagine that could be it too. I should probably clean the connections. I've seen the videos where folks add a starter relay as well so that could be a future project.
sorry i dont know where to post as im new and im not sure what the issue is but when i go to turn the key i just get this electric click sound thats super quiet. If i use a jumper it starts right up but i dont want to keep doing that. Ive changed the alternator and i have a brand new battery so i feel like its the starter or that FL. Oddly sometimes it will start on its own without the jumper but rarely.
Oh i will also add until the new alternator i had permanent Christmas lights, now when i first get it started the lights are on but then they cut off and then when im driving down the street they will all randomly flash... I love this van i really need to get it in a reliable condition and i know i cant keep using a jump box or I'm going to cause more problems.
other than this the vans got 175k miles and in pretty good condition
also need a new windshield but that's a different pain in the butt finding the thing for a different thread. Luckily i don't have to have the van inspected where i live.\
if im in the wrong thread please let me know! thanks!:dizzy:
not positive what drivetrain your van has but here's an opinion* on both:Quote:
Originally Posted by 87spaceghostc2c
-If your van has a manual transmission: There is a Clutch Safety Switch and a Starter Relay. I would check this relay (Sometimes if relays click, it doesn't mean it's good necessarily!) and the switch for proper operation; an intermittent start sounds like it could be a bad relay imo.
-If your van has an automatic, we have a Neutral Start Switch; this switch allows the starter to engage only in N or P; have you checked if the issue continues if you put it in P then into N, and vice versa?
As for the christmas lights, I believe there is a thread on here that discusses them, search tool will help a lot here. If your alternator is going full-field, that is not good at all! Well undercharging isn't good either too.
*I've had starter troubles in the past; starters for these vans haven't been made in decades and Remanufactured ones are a hit or miss unfortunately. Also consulting my 1989 wiring diagram too from a brisk flip through.