The 60A AM1 FL has been superseded by an 80A fuse Toyota part #90982-08203. I believe the #PAL180 will work here too (and that should be readily available at most auto parts stores. Tim
The 60A AM1 FL has been superseded by an 80A fuse Toyota part #90982-08203. I believe the #PAL180 will work here too (and that should be readily available at most auto parts stores. Tim
Thank you for the info Tim. I think I should pick up a few spares. Never know.Originally Posted by timsrv
Brent
The FL 0.5G fusible link appears to be missing from my battery compartment:
I traced the wire and if i followed it right it runs to the + junction box. is that short green section thats been spliced in a fusible link? Should I worry about this or does this look acceptable?
There was a 1.5" section of thin solid core wire coming from the harness to my battery (+) where FL 0.5G should be. I put in a weather resistant fuse holder and 15 amp ATO fuse like Tim suggested.
what does the FL1.25B do exactly? What circuit is it on and what would symptoms be if it failed or was disconnected?
It pretty much powers everything except the starter motor. Although if it blows, the starter still won't work because the trigger circuit is powered by the FL1.25B. When the FL1.25B blows, the van will become completely dead except the charge light will illuminate. If it's damaged or partially melted, then some things may still work and/or everything may blink on/off intermittently. It's a good idea to check it annually to be sure it's in good shape and that the connection points are corrosion free. Putting a dab of dielectric grease on it's terminals will help prevent corrosion and prolong it's life. Tim
Ok, so mine broke off at the ring terminal. See photo below. However, the van still starts up normal and all electronics seem to work just fine (besides my christmas dash)
Does this mean the FL1.25B has been bypassed? I'd inspect further but I'm not quite sure what to look for. I'm a bit baffled that the van runs as normal with it completely disconnected
I'd have to assume that too as it would be quite a trick to get those circuits powered up "wireless". Fuses, breakers and fusible links are not required.............unless something unexpected happens. If something shorts out, you could end up needing to replace the entire van rather than just a fusible link. Since vehicles burn so hot, it's not uncommon for them to take-out other vehicles and/or structures.
Of course that kind of result would be unlikely, but I'd recommend not tempting old Murphy. Tim
ill have to trace the wiring and see where it goes and if they've put another section of fusible link somewhere in its place. Don't know a ton about wiring. A wireless power system would be great
Whenever I repair vehicles with "hacked" wiring, the 1st thing I do is inspect all accessible areas and look for hacks. Factory wiring is neat and clean. Hacks usually stick out like a sore thumb. Whenever a hack is detected, I remove all the "added" wires, then reconnect any cut or damaged factory wiring by observing the color codes. After bypasses and hacks are put back to original configuration I'll then test and troubleshoot to find, and then repair the original problem in a proper way.
In this case you already know the FL1.25B is the issue, so that should make the last part easy. I would assume the hack to be a larger gauge wire (probably 8 or 6 gauge) because anything smaller would likely not have been able to last this long. When looking for the hack, I'd start out checking the battery for an extra wire on the positive terminal. If there's one there, follow it to the other end and remove. If I had to guess, I'd suspect they ran a wire from the batt + to the + box next to the Air Flow meter (where the alternator output wire hooks into the system). Good luck. Tim
I just went back and looked at your pics (earlier this thread) and see an extra wire at the + box (there should only be 2 wires here).
Yeah, I'm at work at the moment, but if i remember correctly i traced that red wire back to the postiive terminal on the battery....ill have to double check (where the FL0.5G was missing - see photo from earlier in the thread) i assume that green section of wire spliced into that red wire from the + junction is a fusible link wire to replace the missing FL0.5G...?
anyway thanks for the info Tim, i think you hit the nail on the head. ill have to investigate further tonight so i can provide a better idea whats going on
Ok, pulled out the battery and battery tray to get a better idea of whats going on. The two wrapped white/blue wires were running to the fusible link which was totally toast, the third white blue wire was running to the positive battery terminal, and the red wire (top of photo 2) was coming from the + junction next to the engine to the positive battery terminal. See attached photos. Hopefully I can fix this situation and it will also resolve my christmas dash
If anyone knows the wiring and can explain what the PO did here and what steps to fix it proper I'd be super grateful. Im a total noob when it comes to wiring/electrical.
There's enough information here in this thread to help you through it. If you do not have the proper tools, terminals, and/or knowledge on how to use them, then it might be better to take it to a shop that does automotive electrical work. If you're determined enough to make the investment in tools/materials, then go to youtube and watch a few videos on crimping wires. In today's world you can get some darn good tools for pennies on the dollar--compared to what they sold for 20 years ago (I have some mechanical cable crimpers that cost me ~$300, but prefer to use the now available cheap hydraulic ones from China). Quality of the Chinese tools might not be the best, but they are still adequate to get the job done. If you use them right they do just as good of a job. For the bigger wires/cables, hydraulic crimpers do nice professional crimps. For the smaller wires Klein makes a nice set of crimpers that are affordabe. Here's some links:
https://www.amazon.com/PENSON-CAYQK0...+crimper&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-I...=klein+crimper
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LBZR_XiEnk
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...tery+terminals
I like the video of the guy showing the Klein crimping because that's the way I do it (on the small wires). There's guys showing the proper way using the bigger hydraulic crimpers, but frankly the videos I watched were long, drawn out and hard to watch. This video (below) doesn't show the Chinese hydraulic unit, but it shows what a good crimp looks like, so it's good for reference. Tim
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qYZFxQ8Pxw&t=185s
One question, Do you have to upgrade this wire when upgrading alternator? I mean if you upgrade to a higher amperage alternator and change out the fusible link to a higher rating , in my case 250a anl fuse. Do I have to replace this wire with a proper size wire or wires? Or do I hit remove fusible link and connect the new fuse directly in place of the fusible link fuse?
The wire/fuse you use should be based on alternator output (both positive and negative). Put the fuse the positive side near the battery. The new fuse and wire should be capable of sustained max output of alternator, but fuse should be rated slightly less than max continuous load rating on wire. Use this in addition to the existing fusible links, then just remove the the old alternator output wire that goes between plus box and big post of alternator (shown in the figure above).
Leave the old fusible links alone as they are still required to supply power to the van circuits. The fusible links are there to protect the van's wiring and are already sized appropriately. If you replace fusible links with anything rated higher than what the old wire can handle, you're asking for a melt-down (don't do it). If you're adding additional heavy loads to the system, wire them directly to the battery and use appropriately sized wire and fuses. If you want these loads ignition switched, use an appropriately sized continuous duty solenoid and use an ignition circuit to trigger the coil. Tim
I've been going through lots of alternators, once or twice a year. Would this be a result of a bad fusible link?
No. If I had to guess, I'd suspect you're using the cheap rebuilt alternators found at discount auto parts stores. Sounds like you need a real Denso alternator. Denso rebuilt units (acutally rebuilt by Denso) are much higher quality than your standard run-of-the-mill rebuilds. Here's a link to a thread with more information: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...lternator-woes
Thanks, that was my thought too but I just had my alternator rebuilt 2 months ago by a highly regarded shop in Brooklyn. I'm taking it back to them in the next couple days to see what they say.
They might not be aware of the special needs of our vans. Cheap parts may work fine in most vehicle configurations, but van alternators go through extreme service. Unless they're installing genuine Denso parts (in particular the diode block) I would not expect them to last. I was going through these things too until I switched to genuine Denso. The alternator In my daily driver has been doing great since I installed it in May 2014 (45k miles ago). Tim
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