The fusible link thread

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Originally Posted by timsrv

When the FL1.25B blows, the van will become completely dead except the charge light will illuminate.

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Tim - When I read your words in this post it was like the dark clouds broke and the sun beamed right down on me! Well, at least until I went to check the FL1.25B moments ago and quickly discovered that the FL1.25B, FL2.0L, and FL0.5G are all missing. :rol: I really hope I didn't cook anything. Any advice on what to check/replace in the case that I damaged something major?

All - An exposed part of the alternator charging wire sparked/smoked when it got wet during a recent coolant flush, and the battery degassed a little too.:yes: Do you think I may have cooked some wire? I was thinking of replacing the section from the battery to the +box as a precautionary measure. Or maybe I'll just install the three Fusible Links and then see how she runs. Also, any FL wire pics from all your successful FL updates, in addition to Tim's within this thread, would be most helpful.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

If everything works then your FL 2.0 is good (Assuming it passes a visual test, don't waste your time trying to replace). Having a blown fusible link won't drain the battery. If anything it will prevent your battery from being drained. I'd start by recharging your battery, then check to see if there's a draw. I'm sure you're beyond this, but it's a common mistake for van newbies to not turn the ignition off all the way. Since the ignition tumblers are weak, the key can usually be removed even when its still in the accessory position.

It's also possible the alternator may have a shorted diode. Here's a thread that may aid you in identifying and repairing a draw. Tim

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...r+draw+circuit

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tim, quoted you because it appears youÂ’re the man with the plan. The following has nothing to do with the quote. :)

New to me van. 89 2WD with 130k. When I purchased it didn’t run, start...really do anything. I put a battery in it and that got me headlights and the “charge” light on the dash, nothing else. Finally through this thread I determined the problem to be the FL 1.25B. (The FL 0.5G is broken off too but the solution to that one is straight forward...I think). Anyways, I reached under there and sure enough the 1.25 housing is completely melted and unsalvageable. Per this thread, I should replace with an 80a slow blow.

So my question is this: exactly what style fuse and *fuse holder* would you use to do this? All I did was cut the old burned housing out so the 2 wires are still hanging down side by side. The other question is, what size wires are they that ran to the 1.25?

thanks!

I have a 1987 van 4wd AT. A couple days ago, the 1.25B fusible link burnt for some unknown reason. I am currently in Mexico so very hard to find a replacement (or anything that would temporarly replace this until i get back to the U.S). I built a new one with a local mecanic. I should probably say that i bought the van with an ignition bypass (have to turn the key to run and push a momentary switch to start it) and have no idea why the owner before me did this. This makes that the starter is not connected to that 1.25B Fusible Link (but alternator is). Now that i got the "new" fusible link in, i noticed that one of the wires (green one. Not the white with blue line one.) gets suuuuuper hot when the van is running. Any idea why and what is causing this? I'm planning on starting my journey up north and dont want the fusible link to keep burning every once in a while... I have pictures but can't seem to understand how to put them on here

If you go back to page 1 of this thread, Tim details the green wire well.

He also makes a note about the potential for "thermal runaways", so best to get it sorted before heading out on the road.

Are the 4 Pal fuses in fusible link box behind passenger seat considered fast acting or slow burn?

That box in my van is disintegrated, I was looking at redoing that whole box with some aftermarket maxi blade fuse block.

I'm not sure what the actual burn time is, but fusible links in general are slow burn. They are designed to tolerate overloads for short periods, but they should burn out before the wire is damaged. If I were doing this repair, assuming new OE parts are non-available, I would try to find a used one (perhaps one of those on-line parts locators). If that didn't pan out and I was stuck with a non-stock repair, I'd probably use resetable DC breakers or slow burn fuses of the same values. Tim

Thanks for the reply, I'll do some more looking around for OE replacement but at this point I'm probably just use this fuse block or something similar Blue Sea Systems 7725 Safety HUB Fuse Block 100 RBS https://a.co/d/4RGYxZ0 for the 40a headlight, 30a am2, 30a EFI. The 60a am1 I'll look for something inline. I heard good things about the blue sea systems fuse blocks from people eliminating fusible links/redoing circuits on old 5.9 Cummins.

Hello I am looking to find out the color of the wire that goes from the wiring harness to the yellow fusibe link that connects to the positive battery terminal. Currently I just have to wires going straight to the positive battery terminal.

Post #1, pic #5

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Originally Posted by hiking

Just went to local dealer...

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Ask around in the ham radio repair world where you would find a store that sells Surplus or New Old Stock like fusible links. In Los Angeles I know of two stores one https://www.ametron.com/ that is as big as a Walmart and another store that is in the San Fernando Valley called Apex Electronics which happens to have a YouTube video documentary on it. They've got New Old Stock from the 40s. It would be worth looking at these stores in your searches for such things as usable links because they went on all kinds of studio equipment as well

OK I had issues on my annual hunting trip yesterday and lost nearly all the accessory Lights, and all the electrical based gauges: It still ran, and I booked 35 miles for town. made that and decided (since the alt belt was good and the Alt new) tried to get home. Battery gave out in Vacaville and I was towed to O'Rileys, Long story short, I got a new battery and drove home.

Thanks to this thread it led me to the well hidden AM1 fuse:
For:
AM1:its not listed as 60A but 80A by Toyota? (might be availability)
AM2/EFI 30A fuse is apparently available
Headlight Fuse 40A, Also apparently available

These, as noted in the thread are PAL class, and available from NAPA as PLA30, PLA40 and PLA 80 replacements:

NAPA #s: (Found on the rack, in fuses...)
PLA80 = 782-2034 (A<!
PLA 30 = 782-2026 (AM2/EFI)
PLA40 = 782-2029 (headlight fuse)

The 30s and 40's are plug and play. The AM1 requires dismounting the block (10 MM bolts, use a 16" 3/8's extension from the bottom for one, the other either needs a universal, or "by feel" from the top I used my SK 3/6's drive in a 1/4" ratchet and a long 10 mm Socket for #2.

DO take the ground off the Battery for the next step; these wires are hot!

AM1 is held with an 8MM on one side and a 6MM on the other. Same ratchet above, std sockets.

The Factory Fuse is NOT slotted, so full screw removal is required. I recommend reattaching the wire as you go if the replacement fuse is slotted. If it is not, I'd suggest making it slotted!

One of my covers refused to stay snapped in place (the one from the bottom) It got Duct tape now.


Not sure Upload Images is working for me:

New Fuses and old:

Nope - Only the one image worked? :wall:


I don't know what is going on to upload an image properly seems haphazard.

I do have one question for the Forum: for the main "Small fuse panel" in the passenger foot well - Does any one have a "map" for which is which? I don't have a cover on mine (likely where the map is) adn I particularity want to find the one for the "charging Circuit" as that could also have been my problem... There are also 2 fuses, (7.5 and 20) in a capsule right next to the main panel -what are those for?

Attachment 12260
IGN STOP GAUGE CHARGE TAIL
—— DOME ECU-IG DEFOG HEAD(lh)
ENGINE AC WIPER TURN HEAD(rh)
—RADIO CIG FOG HAZ-HORN

Thank you Jan!

Sorry for the delayed response, I was driving the van's wheels off on a camping trip!

Thanks TVT and special thanks to Kcg795. I have power again.
Always a wealth of good info here when I run into trouble.
Happy New Year everyone and keep on Vannin’ :drive::thmbup:
Doc

The 1.25B fusible link failed on my van this weekend. I started the van up and drove a short while when I noticed the charge and brake light came on. I pulled over and turned off the van to check the fuse box. Everything looked good so I started it back up and drive a little further before I decided to park it in and inspect further. After some more inspection I tried to start the van, but only got the charge light when I turned the ignition on. Then I checked the 1.25B and it was toast. Melted the black holder. But the harness side was still intact. Luckily Napa had 12 gauge primary fusible link wire and crimp-on ring ends. I took out the bolts from the FL holder and connected the 6” piece of FL wire and wrapped the ends with electrical tape as a temporary solution to get the van back home.

For those out there the fusible link fails slow and electrical components go out in a cascade unlit nothing works.

I think I am going to use this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7...s&gad_source=4 and fusible link wire rather that a 80 amp slow burn fuse and holder since the harness is still in good shape.

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Originally Posted by Ian R.

I think I am going to use this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7...s&gad_source=4 and fusible link wire rather that a 80 amp slow burn fuse and holder since the harness is still
in good shape.

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FYI, those things are massive. I recently went down this road with one of my vans when I upgraded to the 105 amp Suzuki Denso alternator and had a hard time finding a good place to mount it. For the 105 amp upgrade I ended up going with a 120 amp fuse from an '04 Mitsubishi Outlander but this style fuse is used on a number of late 90s to early 2000s imports and are readily available and are also available in 80 amp as well as other amperages. I presume them to be spark proof like the mega fuse since they are mounted directly to the battery. My other van got fusible link wire from the parts store like yours.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T2C1SHN...haWwp13NParams
I still have the original style battey clamps so this bolted right on along with the upgraded 4 gauge charge cable to the alternator. You do have to be able to make your battery connections at 90 degrees since they stack under the fuse and you would have to extend the wire up to the battery terminal from it's current location but then it eliminates a major electrical connection right behind the mudflap. I got mine from the junkyard along with the fuse and terminal cover and a spare fuse from another car to keep in the glovebox.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18442778159...Cclp%3A2332490
When I get around to upgrading battery cables on the second van I will likely use this fuse setup again.

Im so confused on my 87 the 1.25 is pulled into the battery box which made sense to me after seeing this but i cannot figure out where this yellow FL 0.5G fusible link is located. The wiring is surprisingly very clean on my van it was well taken care of for the most part but im having issues with either a FL or my starter has gone to crap. It is very dirty so imagine that could be it too. I should probably clean the connections. I've seen the videos where folks add a starter relay as well so that could be a future project.

sorry i dont know where to post as im new and im not sure what the issue is but when i go to turn the key i just get this electric click sound thats super quiet. If i use a jumper it starts right up but i dont want to keep doing that. Ive changed the alternator and i have a brand new battery so i feel like its the starter or that FL. Oddly sometimes it will start on its own without the jumper but rarely.

Oh i will also add until the new alternator i had permanent Christmas lights, now when i first get it started the lights are on but then they cut off and then when im driving down the street they will all randomly flash... I love this van i really need to get it in a reliable condition and i know i cant keep using a jump box or I'm going to cause more problems.

other than this the vans got 175k miles and in pretty good condition

also need a new windshield but that's a different pain in the butt finding the thing for a different thread. Luckily i don't have to have the van inspected where i live.\
if im in the wrong thread please let me know! thanks!:dizzy:

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Originally Posted by 87spaceghostc2c

when i go to turn the key i just get this electric click sound thats super quiet. If i use a jumper it starts right up but i dont want to keep doing that. Ive changed the alternator and i have a brand new battery so i feel like its the starter or that FL. Oddly sometimes it will start on its own without the jumper but rarely.

Oh i will also add until the new alternator i had permanent Christmas lights, now when i first get it started the lights are on but then they cut off and then when im driving down the street they will all randomly flash.

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not positive what drivetrain your van has but here's an opinion* on both:

-If your van has a manual transmission: There is a Clutch Safety Switch and a Starter Relay. I would check this relay (Sometimes if relays click, it doesn't mean it's good necessarily!) and the switch for proper operation; an intermittent start sounds like it could be a bad relay imo.

-If your van has an automatic, we have a Neutral Start Switch; this switch allows the starter to engage only in N or P; have you checked if the issue continues if you put it in P then into N, and vice versa?



As for the christmas lights, I believe there is a thread on here that discusses them, search tool will help a lot here. If your alternator is going full-field, that is not good at all! Well undercharging isn't good either too.
*I've had starter troubles in the past; starters for these vans haven't been made in decades and Remanufactured ones are a hit or miss unfortunately. Also consulting my 1989 wiring diagram too from a brisk flip through.