Quick question I cannot find the answer to. Is the fuel sending unit the same in a 2wd as the 4wd? Thanks
Quick question I cannot find the answer to. Is the fuel sending unit the same in a 2wd as the 4wd? Thanks
I found this thread useful. 4wd and 2wd senders have two different part numbers, the 4wd part number is 83320-80034, and the 2wd one is 83320-29857. As for the actual difference between the two, I'll just quote Tim instead of trying to blatantly plagiarize him:
These sending units *may* be serviceable, it appears to be the rheostat on these senders that is usually the culprit. I briefly looked into what would go into a fix previously and quickly deemed it was easier to just fill up every 200 miles and use my trip odometer as a poor man's gas gauge instead.Originally Posted by timsrv
Yea my trip counters don’t work, but I just keep track of the miles on the odometer. I had no issues driving from Portland to Tucson. I normally go about 250 miles
This is an outstanding article that takes me from the bottom of my fuel tank to the injectors.
Thank you all.
These sending units *may* be serviceable, it appears to be the rheostat on these senders that is usually the culprit. I briefly looked into what would go into a fix previously and quickly deemed it was easier to just fill up every 200 miles and use my trip odometer as a poor man's gas gauge instead.
The fix actally wasn't to terrible. After removing mine I was able to see that the armature wasn't even contacting the wound rheostat over a big area. Quick job with some needle nose pliers, reassemble and whala! Working fuel guage again...
I did clean it with some contact cleaner and added a really light coat of di-electric to the rheostat. Either way I had to do something... I had NO fuel gauge OR speedo. Both are fixed now.
For long term storage find a source of ethanol free gasoline, then add stabilizers and I guess seal the venting as well.
Some Mogas is ethanol free as well.
MY fuel gauge armature is touching the wound rheostat and I get no reading in the middle, 4 ohms at top and a sometimes reading at bottom. The van has been un used for at least 14 years.
Tried bending the armature and cleaning up the pivot point. still no go. Does putting power to the armature change the equation? I wouldn't think so.
For the first time in my life I am thrilled that a fuel pump was dead. The dregs in the tank didn't get circulated.
MY fuel gauge armature is touching the wound rheostat and I get no reading in the middle, 4 ohms at top and a sometimes reading at bottom. The van has been un used for at least 14 years.
Tried bending the armature and cleaning up the pivot point. still no go. Does putting power to the armature change the equation? I wouldn't think so.
Clean that sucker with some contact cleaner and dab some di-electric on the rheostat...
Mine was reading funkish also before that. SMALL adjustments wit the arm!!! you want to feel it rub the coil, but not be sticky! almost like you are rubbing your fingernail softly over it.
Looks like some of your gas may have varnished too at some point... ergo the contact cleaner. It''ll take the varnish off pretty quickly. Follwe that up w/ a good rub from an erser on the end of a pencil and hopefully you are good to go!
One other note here too, and I believe Tim mentioned it- a digital meter is gonna be rough to get readings from. One of the few times the analog comes in handy! So the idea with the digital is to go super slow, stop, super slow, stop... should read lower ohm's as it clims up the "full" side.
I took the sending unit and screwed it to the edge of a bench, with the coil and armature facing outward. Hooked two leads of the pigtail to an ohm meter. Tried erasure cleaning, no go. Tried 2000 grit sand paper and rinsing with wd 40 elec cleaner. Started getting some readings.Cleaned the armature with the 2000 grit paper. then holding the armature to the coil with light pressure ran it up and down 100 times. Starting to get readings, rinse again, another 100 times, rinse, then 100again. Kept repeating and now get good readings everywhere. Part of might have been corrosion on the float arm bushing, because I believe it is an electrical path.
Then went after the frozen fuel pump. Die Pump wurst verschmutzen mit Dreck. Turn pump upside down. Put in a bunch of WD 40.You can see gear teeth when you look into the pickup after removing the filter. tappy tappy on the sides of the pump with a hammer. With a small awl rock the motor back and forward. More tappy tappy. Rotate pump two full turns forward and backward.Rinse and refill with wd. Powered it with a 2 amp trickle charger on six volts, then twelve, kept adding wd 40. Started it 60 times looking for a flat spot. I will run it in a bucket of atf for an hour tomorrow, if it passes that test, good enough. Better QC than you get from Mao land. Tricks like that will get you home from Mardi gras. Time for a jack's beer.
What is the sensor on the bottom of the float bracket that has one lead going to it? Is that for the low fuel light?
NICE!!!
And yah, the sensor at the bottom with the single lead is the low fuel light. It has rarely been problematic from my research... sounds like you are all set!
Is there a value for that sensor. ?
Hastings fuel filters. HAST GF242 has a porosity of 10 micron. Called tech services and they told me.
TIMSRV had bad results with the OEM and went to an aftermarket canister. . To get 10 microns, and a much larger filter area. I had already bought the Hastings, but am jealous of the clean install.
Will install new filter with a barb on it for a supply tube extension. Fill filter with seafoam, and blow the line out with air. Will put a coffee filter zip tied on the tank line extension into a pail to examine what comes out.
Can we find out which aftermarket filters exceed OEM specs? Are there reputable persons importing parts from Japan and elsewhere that are NLA?
I would like to know how this sensor for low fuel works, and what values it should have. Left it in cleaner overnight and no readings from the wire to ground. The holes in the sensor are open and nothing in it shakes. You can see the pin holes in the bottom, and thy are in the top as well. I can blow thru it.
If someone has one on a bench could they please put a meter on theirs and share?
I believe it's just an open/ close level circuit.
When the level in the tank is above it, it's closed, and when the level drops below it, it's open. All it controls is the orange light in the dash for low fuel warning.
Works exactly like a tank float in a well pump system.
The low fuel warning switch is a thermistor. It is inside that case. When it is in gas it is kept cool and the circuit is kept open. The fuel acts as a heat sink. When in open air the thermistor warms up and completes the circuit and the light goes on.
Check this out:
http://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Ho...warning-sender
Thank you VANCO. Just ordered a 5 pack for 1.49 each plus $5 shipping. That was some fantastic research you did.You need one , I'll send it to you free, postage paid.
Went to examine the thermistor. In a cold garage 45F it reads open. Blow on it, or put it under a light It starts when warm at 2000 ohms and goes down to maybe 1600 ohms. You do not have to dunk them to change the temperature. On a referenced article the thermistor was listed as one K. If some one has a unit handy could they ohm theirs out please, and report back. I've ordered 1000 ohm thermistors and can always add in a 1k resistor. I don't have a strong enough electronic background to know if the 1K ohms matters. Looking at the plug it is the top spade connector and the left hand spade connector for ohms. I did not document the temp when the thermistor closed.
I'm working on replacing the fuel level sender and the fuel pump on my 88 4WD 5MT van. I pulled a sender and pump from an 88 2WD Auto. After reading this thread, apparently the sender is not the same as what's in my 4WD and the tanks are different.
Has anyone tried a 2WD sender in a 4WD tank (or vice versa)? Are the fuel pumps interchangeable at least?
The 2WD tank at the junkyard is really clean inside and looks to be in great shape. Anyone know if it's possible to rig up a 2WD tank to the 4WD chassis?
If a tank swap isn't possible and the 2WD sender can't be rigged or modified to work in my 4WD tank, I'll give the repair procedure Kombi described above a go.
Thanks, Eric
I have read through most of this thread but maybe I missed someone with this issue. My fuel gauge reads backwards. I think the PO did some work on it but it reads empty when full and vice versa. Thoughts on how to correct?
Thanks in advance.
Which van and what trim levels and production dates might be helpful..
89 LE 4WD auto. Should be the same fuel gauge as other models, no?
Thx, Grant
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