http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/4993214134.html
I emailed the guy, says he wanted $65 for the "complete fuse box" if you need it. Try him if you're out of options.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/4993214134.html
I emailed the guy, says he wanted $65 for the "complete fuse box" if you need it. Try him if you're out of options.
I had the same experience with headlights, the wire connector on the back of the panel was burned. I cut off the corner of the connector, and used a female spade connector to the panel, has been good for years. Unfortunately, once this starts it seems to continue, as I now have similar issue with the wiper connector, and I can see the panel has overheated in a couple of places.
Originally Posted by thurston
Rain, I have the same thing going on. The connection if loose gets hot, the hotter it gets, the looser it gets, then melts and deforms a bit of the plastic, the connectors within become weak...
I got away with manipulating the electrical connectors within the fuse panel and installing the relay with some dielectric grease. But it's not a permanent solution. I hate electrical work on cars.That's just me. I've been dragging my feet on replacing the fuse panel for that reason. I keep meaning to really get in there and see if the wiring to the headlight relay can be pulled out the back and new connectors installed and the relay mounted somewhere outside the fuse panel so that the whole thing doesn't need to be changed.
I thought I saw fuse panels in two vans at PicknPulls but that was maybe a month ago - I considered getting one, but then I was reminded that I would actually have to then do this type of work.They should be pretty common, although I don't know about differences between model years.
The same thing is going on with my blower motor relay for the heater, but only if I hit a big pothole. "If the heat doesn't work, you just reach down here and tap tap tap with your finger on this thing," said the folks I originally got the van from. Suspension work might be the fix for that one.
Yeah, I'm trying to fix the situation without having to remove the whole fuse box too. Still looking for posts with photos as I really don't know what I'm doing under the dash. I'm just a little old lady...not a mechanic.
So would you recommend replacing the entire fuse box if possible? I'm thinking if mine is bad, other old boxes might have the same problem. But I've been unable to locate a new after market one. Thanks for any info you have.
Thank you Thurston!
You can remove the glove box with 2 small screws on the hinges, then unbolt the support bar for it, to gain better access to the fuse panel. The panel is held in by one screw, and 2 tabs at the top, it just pulls down, then you have some access to it. The problem I had just recently with the wiper circuit was in the panel itself. and I had to make up a jumper to 'go around' the wiper fuse. Auto electric is not my strong point, I'm just trying to keep it on the road for another year. The wipers have to work in NY to pass inspection, and 'Scooby' is due next month.
I had some work done at the mechanic a while back on my headlights. I got the van back with only my low beams working. Toggle the lever for brights and the lever 'clicks' but no change to highbeam and no blue high beam indicator light in the dash.
yesterday I had a look at the wires under the dash going into the headlight harness. There's a range of colored wires and two solid red ones. Both solid red have been cut. One was rejoined (which powers the low beam). The other was not connected, so I reconnected it. Reconnecting the 2nd red turned on the hi-beam.
Thats progress but still leaves me with low and hibeams on simultaneously. No good.
anybody know where I can look to troubleshoot the toggle for hi/low beams? Steering wheel column?
or any other advice is appreciated.
my goal is to get some brighter LEds I bought working. Right now when I plug them in (in place of the low beam) they are 'stuck' on bright. They are the type that have hi/low on the same housing.
In the pic you can see the circle connector I was using to test the 2nd cut red wire (hi beam)
thsnks!
This is under my steering wheel. White wire seems to have been moved. Anybody know of this wire is part of the headlight circuit?
These vans have a positive supplied to the headlights, and the high/low beam switching is done using negative voltage.
The 4x6 LED lights require a fixed ground, and the high/low switching is done using positive voltage.
To make the LED lights work EXACTLY in a way the factory lights worked (low beam two outside lights, high beam all four fully lit) you need to use a couple of relays to swap the voltages from negative to positive.
A lot of people are making these LED lights "work" in different ways, but unless you do some creative rewiring it's not proper, and not the factory configuration.
I recommend getting regular incandescent lights to work properly first, and then go from there to get the LEDs working.
Last edited by VanCo; 10-23-2018 at 02:49 PM.
Thanks! Working on it
Chiming into this thread with my current situation - headlights have been giving me grief lately and I've found the problem. This connector has gotten too hot and is basically fried.
I've purchased these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283127097732
to replace the connector, I'll chime back in if it fits and share the results. I'm going over my grounds and will update once I get it sorted out.
Update here: I crimped existing wire into new connectors and used the ebay generic connector link and my headlights are back in business. I replaced the relays while I was at it and everything seems to be fine for now.
G'day im having similar issues with my 1985 hiace van. i used to pull the highbeam stick towards me to use it but it eventually failed.
I replaced the instrument cluster and wiring and noticed i have 3 burnt out connector pins. I have my hb indicator working properly again and some lights. however i do not have any high beams, only one working parkilight and healdlight on the right side and the left a veru very feint headlight.
I noticed my taillight relay waa getting warm so ive ordered a new one of those but im wondering what else it could be to fix it. Someone already did that bypass previously i found out.
Any help would be greatly approciated!
Regards
Kyle
Welp looks like I also have to drag myself here too from a same issue with the headlights/hi-beams and including my horn too which works intermittently (No headlight, no highbeams (no blue indicator on dash) but everything else works) albeit I'll have to yank the wheel off again someday to confirm anything was actually replaced like the plunger. And sorting through electricals, how fun indeed, the previous posts in this thread should be helpful so I'll check when i can though
Also forgot to mention, the symptoms now that i'm having compared to earlier in the year are as follows:
Headlight relay clicks when on the 3rd position (Lights)
Hi-Beams relay does NOT click anymore, used too, and no blue indicator light on the dash too
Road bumps and attempting to click on the lights, or hi-beams too, does not provide any results unlike how it used too where sometimes it would come on.
Checked the fuses visually, still trying to get my ancient Ohmmeter to work, the LEFT and RIGHT HEADLIGHT fuses looked good, so did the high beams. Only real concern was a 20A fuse 5A over the 15A cig lighter fuses, the rear cig lighter does work but ill have to check the front using the rear plunger to confirm but it should so...
also does anyone know how to pull the 40A fuse for the lights next to the power steering reservoir? Couldn't figure it out for the life of me and i dont wanna muscle it and break something else
Thanks in advance!
Perhaps its time to review the "basic van knowledge" sticky at the top of this forum page.
See post #2 and #3
Yep, that's very helpful! Was trying to pull the AM1 fuse by mistake, headlight one was just to the left of it all this timeSpeaking of which, I can fool around with my "new" analog meter, a Triplett Corp. Model 60 Type 3 and get to see if it works well!!!
Okay, I believe i MAY have found one culprit for my no-lights issue...
When I originally first discovered and bought this van, the passenger's side Hi-Beam lens was broken, but the bulb inside still worked so I put a cheapo DIY automotive lens tape/covering on all my busted lenses including this one since a buddy said the cops keep eyes out for busted lights/lenses in California at least. Fast Forward to about a month ago and with some significant rains happening moisture was building up, lo and behold now I have no lights; maybe its related?
In any case, I found a NOS Hi-Beam (a WAGNER H4656 from who knows when but its in good condition, might even work still!) and I will be seeing if I can install this light to see if it changes anything...
Also does anyone know a thread specifically for the later-generation vans about removing the headlamps? Side markers seem like the pits to remove unlike the earlier generations from my memory of this one thread detailing it.
Last edited by 89van; 01-05-2023 at 04:14 PM. Reason: Needed to elaborate more
Okay, got one of the cornering lamps off, and i nearly got the plastic headlight trim ring out but theres one's screw near the bumper that seems impossible to get to, do I also have to drop the bumper to get these off???
See post #26 of this thread HERE for some progress of this too.
Gonna bring my van to a local guy from the word of mouth who is really good with electricals supposedly, maybe I'll find the nail on the head thru him
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